Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: Knoll on December 12, 2017, 07:06:04 pm
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Picked up some tulip poplar and walnut boards last week. Cut into 3/8" squares. Tulip polar shafts are about 36" now. Walnut will be used as footers .... about 8" long.
Tapered about half the shafts tonight. Taper is about 5" long. Used belt sander jigged up to function as edge sander.
(https://i.imgur.com/gm78xhh.jpg)
Mating taper in footers will be cut tomorrow if not too cold. Hopefully eyesight and steady hand will be up to the task. :(
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Good luck Knoll Top.
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Looking forward to seeing the outcome. :OK
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What happened to the cane you were working on?
DBar
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Bill ... I am still able to walk and chew gum at same time. Though patting head and rubbing tummy has always been a challenge. :D
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Good topic Mike.Nothing wrong with walnut looks wise.I used the TBB book instructions to do mine.In all fairness the footed shaft serves more than looks.It'll put more weight forward on your shaft too.A good 50 grains many times.A desireable feature.Overall footing is usually a good 7" long without changing the spine any.So I usually use purple heart or even osage.I think Badger did a build-a-long somewhere once too.I think it can make the shaft a bit tougher up front too.
Have you gotten after those dogwoods yet?
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going to be very pretty ;)
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Bill ... I am still able to walk and chew gum at same time. Though patting head and rubbing tummy has always been a challenge. :D
Just wondered if you got tired of straightening them :) ;)
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gm78xhh.jpg[/img]
Mating taper in footers will be cut tomorrow if not too cold. Hopefully eyesight and steady hand will be up to the task. :(
Like Ed I used the TBB method of a saw kerf instead of a taper. I thought it worked great. Is there a reason you're not using that method?
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Have not reviewed the TBB method.
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Basically you just put a saw herf down the center, put a clamp at the end of the kerf to avoid splitting and glue up and force the tapered piece into the kerf. When the glue dries plane off the excess. Here's a quick mock-up. Took maybe 5 min. I use this method to repair broken tips.
PS a few more clamps are needed ;D
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I use 3" but just because that's the width of the vertical belt sander that I sand the tapers on. I've never broken one but 5" is more traditional I think.
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DC I know this is from the other thread, but are the chrysals right where the clamp in the pic is?
Apparently the chrysals happen just behind the tip because he repaired them by footing the arrows. Has anyone heard of this. How low does your spine have to be so that the arrow bends far enough to chrysal? Or have I got this all wrong?
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Glued up 1st one last night.
(https://i.imgur.com/ph7VZLI.jpg)
Used spring clamp at bottom of taper to prevent footed portion from splitting as shaft portion was pushed in. Got a hairline crack down there. Next time will use c clamp. Think some sanding dust and glue will hide the tiny crack.
Used 4 spring clamps to hold joint together until glue cured.
Now to make some kinda shooting board to turn this square into something resembling an arrow shaft . . . . .
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Ed . . . those dogwood shafts are laying next to my "crafting" table waiting for inspiration. O:)
Bill . . . worked on 6 cane shafts last night. Have ya seen Jack Crafty's 3-part video?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTo_okihzuk
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DC I know this is from the other thread, but are the chrysals right where the clamp in the pic is?
Apparently the chrysals happen just behind the tip because he repaired them by footing the arrows. Has anyone heard of this. How low does your spine have to be so that the arrow bends far enough to chrysal? Or have I got this all wrong?
They crysalled before he footed them. The footing was a repair to get rid of the chrysals.
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Those are gonna be sweet Mr Mike
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DC, a chrysal is a compression failure, but maybe on the arrow it was not from bending, but from hitting too hard?
Knoll, I think somewhere I read about making the tapers concave or hollow ground, if you were going to force them into the kerf method
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Very cool start, Mikey.
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Got started on a shooting board to turn these squares into rounds.
It's a couple pieces, with each piece chamfered to form half of the "trough" that will hold the shaft squares.
Got 'em stuck together now.
I hate waiting for glue to cure . . . . . .
(https://i.imgur.com/8dsUT3Q.jpg)
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First shaft is planed down to slightly more than 23/64.
(https://i.imgur.com/iOupSt6.jpg)
Glue joint has quite the impact on spine measurement. This shaft is measuring 70+ lbs. Shaft from same board, but not footed, measured just 50ish lbs.
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It did'nt with mine using purple heart or osage.I made mine parallel width though with the shaft.You'll have to take her down some then to get 50#.Personally I like as narrow a shaft as I can get off these self bows.
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At approx 23/64 dia and 32" length, ended up at 41# spine. That is gonna work well for me.
Re earlier spine measurement, have hunch that I messed up measurement.
Found that hand-planing squares into shafts was easy. Making a shooting board as aid to planing was significant help.
Now gluing footers to some more shafts.
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I see.The red alert has been shut off then.As long as your happy that's what counts.Some oily finish should bring the contrast out nice,or even any kind of finish.Show some pics when your done.They go for pretty good money if bought made like that.
I usually just reduce mine with a file to 8 facets.Then a little spinning in the drill with some stiff 60 grit down to 220 gets me where I like mine.I still seem to lose them just as quick as a regular plain jane shafts though.....lol.
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I still seem to lose them just as quick as a regular plain jane shafts though.....lol.
I think this is the major reason I have not gone off the deep end and made shafts like this!!!
Keep posting pics as you go, this is good stuff!
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First 4 are finished.
(https://i.imgur.com/WirsYi5.jpg)
They are 23/64. Spine measurements are 46, 45, 41, and 40. There are 5 more to do. This has been fun project and way easier than anticipated.
I cut some red oak, maple, and more tulip poplar squares. Some of those are completed.
(https://i.imgur.com/FA9fAFk.jpg)
Totally off topic, but also working on some river cane shafts that came from certain gentleman in KY.
(https://i.imgur.com/QsE6VzT.jpg)
This will likely be the end of arrow shaft work until after holidays. The Wife just pushed a "get ready for family to descend" to-do list under my nose.
Merry Christmas to all!!
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When I did this I was also really surprized how easy it was to get a good glue joint. I guess because the pieces are so thin they just bend to fit. The only part i found a bit tough was trying to get it straight with the clamps blocking your view.
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When I did this I was also really surprized how easy it was to get a good glue joint. I guess because the pieces are so thin they just bend to fit. The only part i found a bit tough was trying to get it straight with the clamps blocking your view.
I concur. ;D
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I wonder if having the foot piece in a pot of hot water would also help them flex, match up tighter, and resist splitting?
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They are looking good Knoll, very nice shafts. Never done any myself but have had several gifted to me and they seem to shoot really great, I think because as Ed said the weight forward effect. ;)
Pappy
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Those look great Knoll.
Bjrogg
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Pappy, am looking forward to carving knocks in these and see how they fly.
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Those are going to be nice cant wait to see the finish product