Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: txdm on January 06, 2018, 07:12:50 pm
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Hello, I've been working on some first arrows from Yaupon with feathers and copper-tubing field tips crimped flat and cut to a point. Each one gets a little better, but now I'm getting some that are all "good" but not consistent.
First question is about an arrow I'm currently bare-shaft tuning. On one side is quite a bit too light, and the other its way too stiff. The knock is just a 1/4" self-knock, no fletchings on the arrow yet.
Since the arrow is 29" long, I can still re-do the knock. Does it sound like I should cut the knock off and make a new one at a different index, or should I continue tuning the arrow to one of the two current sides?
Second question is regarding a pair of arrows that don't match. Both are yaupon and the same diameter (pretty much).
(http://www.dmcknight.net/forumpics/arrows.jpg)
Arrow 1 is 28" long, fletched with three 4" chicken wing feathers (my birds), has ~100gr tip.
Arrow 2 is 29" long, fletched with three 4" turkey feathers (my bird), and has a ~100gr tip.
Both arrows were bare shaft tested to fly very straight, but Arrow 2 loses much of its speed and falls a foot over 15 yards compared to Arrow 1.
Should I try trimming the turkey feathers down closer to the shaft? I shoot 15-25 yards when I practice.
Side notes:: The chicken feathers on Arrow 1 are softer than turkey feathers, and will be less durable and rain-worthy. Also Arrow 1 is bound with Dacron b50 which is messy compared to the basic artificial sinew on Arrow 2. I expect to have to refletch Arrow 1 after another few hundred shots, but it sure shoots fast!
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If you want two arrows to match, you need to keep them as similar as possible-same weight and same spine, same wood and tip and feathers. Both of those arrows likely shoot fine, just not the same. Get a grain scale and learn how to test spine, and your arrows will get more consistent.
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for the arrow that is too weak one way and too stiff the other- I don't think this has ever happened to me, but I would probably abandon it.
for the arrow that seems to fall quickly- trimming the feathers may help a little. If it really does hit a foot lower than the other one at 15 yards, it may be a lot heavier.
Like Jeff said, it's nice to have a grain scale ($15) and a spine tester (make one for $20- see poor folk bows dot com) Start with shafts that are the same length, within about 20 grains in weight, within 1/16 diameter, within 5 lbs spine. Use same feathers with same cut and make all points same.
Other comments- bare shafting arrows is tricky- false readings are common. Work on achieving a consistent release and draw length.
100 grain points are pretty light- try adding some lead or more copper to increase them to 200. This may make them fly better.
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Thanks I do have a grain scale.
The one that falls is 578, and the one with chicken feathers is 547.
I've got a few dozen more shoots to work with, so I'll set the odd one aside for now.
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Always put the stiff side of the arrow against the bow and cut the nock perpendicular to that.
What bow are you shooting your arrows from?
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If you have a dial caliper, you can make a spine tester. Pm me your address and I will send you a base, stand and cross beam. You will need a 2 lb weight with a hook, and a clamp to attach the caliper. I will include free instructions :)>:D! You get to put a finish on the wood.
Hawkdancer
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Using this Hickory board bow I made last year. 43# @ 26", and I usually draw to 27".
(http://www.dmcknight.net/forumpics/hickory-bb.jpg)
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If you have a dial caliper, you can make a spine tester. Pm me your address and I will send you a base, stand and cross beam. You will need a 2 lb weight with a hook, and a clamp to attach the caliper. I will include free instructions :)>:D! You get to put a finish on the wood.
Hawkdancer
Thanks HawkDancer. I have a 2lb weight ready. I'll PM you my email
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You could probably start with 35# spined arrows or longer arrows with heavier spine.
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Both arrows were bare shaft tested to fly very straight, but Arrow 2 loses much of its speed and falls a foot over 15 yards compared to Arrow 1.
Should I try trimming the turkey feathers down closer to the shaft? I shoot 15-25 yards when I practice.
I agree with aaron that trimming may help. the better an arrow flies bare shaft, the less feathers may be required.
if you are feeling experimental, trim a bit and shoot a bit until you are back to bareshaft, just to see what happens.
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Hello, I've been working on some first arrows from Yaupon with feathers and copper-tubing field tips crimped flat and cut to a point. Each one gets a little better, but now I'm getting some that are all "good" but not consistent.
First question is about an arrow I'm currently bare-shaft tuning. On one side is quite a bit too light, and the other its way too stiff. The knock is just a 1/4" self-knock, no fletchings on the arrow yet.
Use that shaft for a fire starter and start another.
DBar
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Thanks for the tips everyone.
Regarding the Arrow #2 that falls short, I put a slightly heavier point on it, trimmed the feathers a little and saw a tiny amount of improvement. THEN I tried flipping it over with the cock feather in, and wouldn't ya know, it shoots perfect that way... just like "ol chicken feathers".
So I'm thinking this means there was a stiffness on the top or bottom that I didnt account for when I cut the knock. Next time I'll follow the advice of finding the stiffest side and making that face the bow before cutting any knocks.
I also started a new arrow today. I REALLY enjoy making them with hand tools (4-way-file, scraper, pocket knife). Each one gets better!
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just curious about 2 things
when you bare shaft tested, did you nock the arrow the same each time, with respect to which side was against the bow?
and was that the way the cock feather was put on?
when you shoot the arrow with the cock feather out (more drop), do you see poor flight? wobble, porpoising? before it straightens out?
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Willie I made sure to test both sides and keep track of the way I thought would work best, but I was too focused on the left and right to notice the amount of drop at 5 and 10 yds. I will next time though!
I'll test it later today to see if it wobbles in flight before straightening out.