Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Hawkdancer on January 23, 2018, 11:43:50 pm
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Got my hickory stave to bend some when floor tillering, but have about 2-3" reflex. Question is when to put it on the tillering tree? Plan to cut nicks tomorrow 66" ntn, 1 7/8 at fades, roughly following Paul Comstock's guidelines, 5/8" at fades, 1/2" at mid limb, 3/8" at tips. I still have working room to get to those points. All work is on belly and sides, handle and fades are still rough outs. Thanks,
Hawkdancer
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I would not build it by measuring thickness. You can put it on the tree right now if you like and get it bending evenly. 1/2" and 3/8" the bow could be too light.
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I tried to build my first few board bows by cutting down to predetermined thickness, every one came in way under weight.
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I agree with Badger. Put it on the tree.
More on my site.
http://traditionalarchery101.com
Jawge
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I get them floor tillered and bending pretty even and go straight to the long string, don't really measure anything as far as thickness of the limbs. :)
Pappy
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Glad you still have working room at this point...As stated, start your tiller and allow the finished bow to depict the limb thickness...Floor tiller is Important, get it bending as you lean into it on each limb and go to tillering technique...No two bows are the same...I have multiple bows of Hickory, Osage and others that are all very close to my preferred draw weight and none of them are the same in thickness dimensions...
Don
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Hawk
when I put a new design on the tiller tree for the first time, I always stop and take a real hard look when the stave gets to bending about to brace height. I actually hang a weight on the longstring, and stretch a piece of yarn straight between the tips and take a pic.
Heres where I note the lbs of the weight, and carefully compare my pic to pics of other braced bows of similar designs and maybe even stop for the evening so i can get a fresh perspective in the morning.
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I never go by thickness either.... I would come out light , for sure.... ;)
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Got as far as getting the reflex straight, now to got past that point toward brace height! Also had to even up the limbs somewhat. Big question is how to determine the correct string length to get to 5-6" fistmele (brace height) with 2+ inches of reflex
https://i.imgur.com/F2PSBEk_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium
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Hawk, there is a formula for finding the string length of a finished bow, but rather than brace it too early I just use a adjustable knot on one end of a longstring (and a spliced loop on the other), and sneak up on brace slowly. I have been getting the bow to bend about 3/4 of full draw on the long string before bracing with the shorter string.
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Hawkdancer a couple things to keep in mind with reflex design. You may already know but just in case.
First any area that has reflex in unbraced profile will look like it's not bending as much when strung and being drawn. It's really easy to remove to much wood from reflex area and develop a hinge. I agree with everyone not to go by deminsions but I do use my fingers like a calipers to help me especially through those transitions from reflex to straight or deflex.
Another thing is they are a bit harder to get braced and tend to feel heavier than they really are when stringing. I missed my target weight on first reflex static recurve thinking it was much heavier than it really was because of the early string tension. I think this is more of a problem with recurve design and just my personal observation. It took me a couple reflex recurve bows to get a feel for them.
Good Luck and don't be afraid to post pictures and ask questions.
Bjrogg
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Got as far as an level draw on the long string, pulls about 46#, my target is in that range. Getting into positive tiller appears to increase the weight, so I am going very slow. Pics, I hope. Top limb is to the left. Going to try to increase bend this afternoon, very carefully! Also how to treat thickness at a bump on the back? Does not appear to be a knot. Thanks,
Hawkdancer
https://i.imgur.com/rzfohCb.jpg
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It is going to read about the same weight on the long string as it does if it were braced. Once you work it down to about 23" at your target weight it should be ready to brace. I would ignore the thickness things you are looking at and just keep adjust the bend by removing wood where needed or use a gizmo if you are having trouble seeing it.
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Steve,
Thanks. Put another 2" on the long string, weight went up to 57#, with about 1" more bend. I took it off tension asap! Going at it with the 20 strokes and floor tiller, then the tree, still. Real stiff on the floor tiller.
Hawkdancer
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THIS is a really good thing to know BTW.
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I have to watch this one. Very good comments so far even without pics. I am right there with you.
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Yep i like these threads to. They seem to answer questions I didn't think to ask.
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I get the limbs bending on the floor, long string tiller out to 10" looking for target weight + 5# and then string it.
With a reflex of 2" I'd long string tiller out to 12".
Jawge