Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: redhillwoods on February 16, 2018, 07:13:56 am
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With regard to heat-treating the belly with a heat gun, what is the ideal amount of reflex to induce? For my first attempt I tried a hickory bow at about 5" reflexed along the entire length and have a load of white oak coming soon and I intend on heat-treating alot of it. The hickory stave is currently re-hydrating.
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Additionally, I know osage doesn't benefit from heat-treating like white woods do, however is it still an good way to improve the shape of an osage stave? to correct a mis-aligned stave or move a limb from a set to a reflexed position?
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I know 1 thing for sure redhillwoods there would be a heck of a lot more characterish type bows shown without the use of a heat gun.Like you said hickory is very well suited for heat treatment.
I started putting reflex a little more at a time into different bows as I built more.Learning to tiller more reflex bows as I went.
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With regard to heat-treating the belly with a heat gun, what is the ideal amount of reflex to induce? For my first attempt I tried a hickory bow at about 5" reflexed along the entire length and have a load of white oak coming soon and I intend on heat-treating alot of it. The hickory stave is currently re-hydrating.
I don't think there is such a thing as an ideal amount but 5" is a good starting point. It depends on how much reflex you want the bow to keep after tillering and the wood species/quality being used.
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Be aware that too much reflex, added or natural can over stress a bow before you even get to brace. I like to use a 2x4 block(about 3 1/2") of reflex when heat treating and straightening a bow. This usually gives me about 1" of reflex or a flat profile when shot in.
I've gotten to where I heat treat all my bows, whitewood or osage or whatever and think it helps any and all bow woods.
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+1 Pat. I had this experience recently with an Australian wood, Queensland Silver Ash. Makes a nice bow from a straight length; light, springy, responds well to heat treating, not too much set. Responded well to heat bending, and inducing reflex too. But even a couple of inches of reflex was enough to overpower the belly, and chrysals appeared shortly after going to brace. Tried three times thinking maybe my tillering was poo. Thought long and hard about tillering reflexed bows. Tillered, especially the third one, cautiously. But still, chrysals appeared.
My conclusion:
1.Some woods just don't like to be reflexed
2.Every wood will have it's limit
3.My tillering is still poo
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+1 Pat. I had this experience recently with an Australian wood, Queensland Silver Ash. Makes a nice bow from a straight length; light, springy, responds well to heat treating, not too much set. Responded well to heat bending, and inducing reflex too. But even a couple of inches of reflex was enough to overpower the belly, and chrysals appeared shortly after going to brace. Tried three times thinking maybe my tillering was poo. Thought long and hard about tillering reflexed bows. Tillered, especially the third one, cautiously. But still, chrysals appeared.
My conclusion:
1.Some woods just don't like to be reflexed
2.Every wood will have it's limit
3.My tillering is still poo
haha nice! This is me as well.