Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Muzzleloaders => Topic started by: Eric Krewson on May 04, 2018, 07:58:09 am
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I picked up a "deal" on a precarve kit, just about half price. I started it the other day and found out the lock inlet was cut abut 1/4" too far back and 1/4" too low. I moved the barrel back enough to get a 1/4" touch hole liner in in-front of the breech plug. I inletted the lock plate as high as I could with the existing inlet so as not to have a huge gap at the bottom of the plate but I am not even close to having the pan on a barrel flat. I can drop the barrel some but even that will be iffy.
The purpose of my post is to emphasize the importance of NEVER ordering a precarve kit with the lock inlet precut, it is far better to do your entire lock inlet yourself.
You are safe with a precut lock inlet on a Kiebler kit as they as close to perfect as one can buy and perfectly located.
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Good info..
Thanks Leroy
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If you drop the barrel down very much you will probably get into the ramrod channel. You will probably have to do what I did. That's way low!
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Eric, I've been reading the replies to your thread on ALR, and have to say that a lot of guys are giving you a lot of hasty advice. Personally, I think the problem is that the barrel wasn't inletted all the way down. That's really not too big of a deal, though.
You said there is 5/16" of web at the breech. That's a lot of extra meat in there. I'd drop it down to 1/8". That would make up 3/16". You can get back the other 1/16" by drilling the touch hole slightly below center. With the swamp on that barrel, you'll still have enough left for a 8-32 front lock bolt without getting into the barrel channel if you hug the barrel.
Is the lock plate now in the correct position fore and aft?
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The lock plate is in the right position fore and aft, I moved the barrel back a bunch to get teh pan in the right place in relation to the breech face.
I will make this thing work one way or another.
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I was going to trash this stock but decided I had nothing to lose by trying to fix it. I will trash the stock if I can't completely hide the fix.
Here is the gap I am trying to fix;
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I started by cutting another matching piece of curly maple to fit in the lower part of the lock molding, getting a perfect fit was a chore.
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Glued in place with unibond, hopefully I will have an invisible glue line;
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I have a pretty good glue line.
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I think this is going to work, I cut thin lock moldings and can get right up against my glue line and have the right width for my lower panel.
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Who made the pre-carve?
Looks like you can make a tolerable glass of lemonade from this lemon.
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Rather than bash them openly I sent you a PM.
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Great fix!
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I have the lock plate mostly down;
(https://i.imgur.com/S7Aeqna.jpg)
I also have the pan close to where it needs to be, I may move the barrel back a little more.
(https://i.imgur.com/12h4XC1.jpg)
The lock internals are going to be a challenge, I may try to inlet for them with the lock assembled, it won't be a pretty job with everything already cut for the former lock position.
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Nice save Eric! Over the past few years I have been shooting a couple production flintlocks and your post has helped me to continue on the direction of my own build. Both flintlocks I have don't fit me as well as a friends custom gun (he has a similar physical build as me)...hopefully my first build happens sooner than later although I think I have quite a bit more to learn. I did, however, receive my second lock dismantling lesson...all I need now is a mainspring vise and I'll be ready for action! (Please let me know if anyone has an extra they would consider parting with :-)
Dino
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With such a mess of a patched inlet, putting the lock in by conventional methods just won't work.
Here is the way one typically inlets the lock internals, one piece at a time.
(https://i.imgur.com/HHAhzFP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gLPWuJX.jpg)
In this case I have a real mess to start with, my patch and the old factory inletting which is in the wrong place.
(https://i.imgur.com/t0JsfTA.jpg)
I am going to have to inlet the whole assembled lock at one time. I started with a drilled sear hole (in the wrong place at first) and the start of the mainspring inlet and went down from there. Black with soot and check, remove nay black marks where things are rubbing.
I actually got it done in a couple of hours, I will clean up the rough looking stuff today.
(https://i.imgur.com/TJ16gNY.jpg)
The lock functions properly, I sure am glad the lock plate covers up this sloppy inlet.
(https://i.imgur.com/m3HlxRX.jpg)
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Dino, you can make a try stock to get the measurements for a gun that will fit you perfectly.
(https://i.imgur.com/H3Z77I6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/q1aQL7f.jpg)
You adjust the try stock until you can close your eyes, shoulder the stock, open your eyes and be looking at perfectly aligned sights, kinda' like magic. Transfer the measurements to your stock blank and you have a truly custom rifle that will fit you like a glove.
If the measurements are there you can't beat a Kibler kit, anybody with some woodworking skills can build these rifles, 10 to 12 hours opposed to 10 to 12 months for a scratch build for us newbie builders. To build one of these rifle you do have to have patience and work slow, like you are doing the final tiller on a bow with sandpaper.
Here is my Kibler southern mountain rifle in .32 cal. Their southern mountain rifles go up to .45 cal, their Lancaster kits go up to .58 cal.
(https://i.imgur.com/3mAIyAF.jpg)
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Eric, you read my mind! I was wondering how I (or a builder) would figure out "custom" measurements...great idea with the try stock! The new (new to me) production rifle I bought recently for $200 is a Traditions Pennsylvania...my cheek is still sore from getting hit after each shot...the dimensions on this gun definitely don't suit me.
Your Kibler looks pretty sleek!
I have not yet started to look into making a flintlock but plan to start my research soon…can you recommend a couple basic reference books that might be helpful?
Thanks!
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The Gunsmith of Grenville County is where a bunch of us started. Lots of info like the TBB series for bows. I found it useful for my first gun but never looked at it again after I finished the first.
I bought the five video series for the above book but the old version was so hacked up and poorly edited I didn't find them to be much use. They have since redone the book and video series.
I would watch a bunch of the rifle building video series on youtube as well. Duelist has two or three up that show the process.
If you plan to build a non kit gun I would definitely send off your stock blank and barrel off to have the barrel inletted and the ramrod hole drilled. I had 4 done this way.
I have always used full sized plans for a build. I draw a pattern from them altering the basic plans to have the right drop and length of pull for me.
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I went out to clean up the inlet and found the lock was hard to cock, I blackened and checked and blackened and checked, I found some impingement places and made the mainspring inlet a little deeper.
Next I noticed the pan wasn't anyway near flat on the barrel, duh, than it hit me I hadn't relieved the wood for the travel of the cock.
I prefer a slant to a notch, removed the wood, the lock is as slick as glass now.
(https://i.imgur.com/ebrQGUI.jpg)
I know I am a wood hack and only make these posts to let the other wood hacks out there know they can actually build a rifle if they choose to attempt it. I do end up with some nice looking guns (if you don't look to closely).
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Very nice Eric - Thanks for sharing (=) ! Bob