Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: burtonridr on July 11, 2018, 09:35:31 pm
-
Ok not totally my first time, but first time using this method. I have build a few arrows from red dogwood branches, this is my first go at building arrows from pine 1x3.
I want to thank everyone here for all the great information, it was a ton of help figuring everything out and this build saved me a lot of money buying shafts, etc. Plus it is a lot of fun.
Alright, so I started with 1x3 pine board and cut it down to 33". Then I rigged my jig saw on a board upside down and clamped a slide at around 3/8" away from the blade. This is just basically a table saw built with a jig saw. I ripped a bunch of 3/8"x3/4"x33" pieces, then ripped those in half to get 3/8"x3/8"x33" sticks. Then I created a dowel maker out of metal and clamped it down, and used a power drill to run the 3/8 sticks through. These gave me rough looking dowels around 3/8" in diameter. Then I used the drill and 60 grit sand paper to sand them down to around 5/16" dowels. Smoothed them up with 100 grit sand paper and 150 grit sand paper. I created a quick spine tester with a few nails, clamp, and micrometer. I learned I should shoot for 10lb under my bow weight, so I sanded the shafts down until I got .64" of sag (40lb spine). After that, I applied stain to the shafts. When that dried, I rubbed them down with fine grit steel wool.
On to the knocks, I used a triangle file to start the knocks, and I've got a doubled up hack saw blade to cut them down to depth. Then I used sand paper and small files to smooth out the knock slit. I also heated up a small finish nail red hot and burned the bottom of the knock thinking it might strengthen the area. I do intend to wrap the knock later, but I want different colors for different arrow points and havent decided on colors. I scored a bunch of goose feathers early this year, so I made a mess of fletchings with them to fletch the arrows. Glued them on with cheap super glue in a helical form. Trimmed the fletchings on the shaft with straight edge and utility knife with brand new blade. I have some left over house paint, so I used it for the cresting. Glued on a standard 100 gr target tip. Then finished it off with a few coats of linseed oil.
Must say it shoots super nice, very happy with the first arrow. I plan to build 3 with target tips and 3 with tonto points(from circular saw blade). Then I might also use a few of the extra shafts to make small game arrows with blunts, maybe a fishing arrow... Well see.
These are 31" long, 40# spine, Canadian goose fletched, 100 gr target point.
-
They look pretty good to me! I am still working on the red osier dogwood from last year's trade. I think your method is working well, nice cresting/fletching jig you got there, looks real hard to make >:D (lol)!
Hawkdancer
-
They look pretty good to me! I am still working on the red osier dogwood from last year's trade. I think your method is working well, nice cresting/fletching jig you got there, looks real hard to make >:D (lol)!
Hawkdancer
lol yes its pretty fancy, the nails really make it look classy (lol)
-
Nice I like um
DBar
-
Thanks DB, I really like the arrows in the "six stinger" thread. I might order marabou feathers and do something similar to yours to make these pop when they hit the target.
-
I like them too.Nice work all around.What kind of mass weight did you get overall with pine?
-
I like them too.Nice work all around.What kind of mass weight did you get overall with pine?
Thanks BowEd,
I'm wondering that as well, all I have is a mechanical scale for weighing out gunpowder to reload ammo... I will see if I can come up with a way to use it and get the weight of the arrows.
-
Care if I guess???I'll say the arrow shown finished there to be 465 grains total.Making arrows can be relaxing if your not pressured with a time factor and want to make them to see what they'll be.I had to make myself a spiner[$20.00]/buy a grain scale[$20.00] to make matched arrow sets of either split timber or shoot shafts but I never regretted it.
-
Those look nice.
-
Care if I guess???I'll say the arrow shown finished there to be 465 grains total.Making arrows can be relaxing if your not pressured with a time factor and want to make them to see what they'll be.I had to make myself a spiner[$20.00]/buy a grain scale[$20.00] to make matched arrow sets of either split timber or shoot shafts but I never regretted it.
HA! thats an amazing guess!!! Or you have made a lot of pine arrows :D
I just measured them with a food scale and used google to convert from grams to grains. I came up with;
370gr for the bare shafts
460gr for the finished arrows
That should be +-15gr... good enough 8)
+1 on the arrow making being relaxing.
-
Those look nice.
Thanks Rob!
-
I've made quite a few spruce arrows before.+ or - 15 grains on a set of twelve arrows I think is pretty darn good self made.Like you said good enough!!!
-
I use a digital powder scale to weigh shafts and finished arrows, and my home made spine tester with my spare caliper, and the spinning chart. Got to get busy on arrows again, too - I'll need a set for the hickory bow, and one for the arrow trade, and a set for my landowner friend.
Hawkdancer
-
Thanks DB, I really like the arrows in the "six stinger" thread. I might order marabou feathers and do something similar to yours to make these pop when they hit the target.
"bur" if I can add a little help in "useablity". I know this is not a word but I like to make arrows that is usable and DURABLE. Wrap the front of the fletching with some thread and it will help to eliminate issues with shooting off a shelf. also wrap below the nock to keep the nock from splitting out. Notice the small details of the arrows I post. it is not for looks its for functionality.....all of those details are for a reason. :)
DBar
'
-
Thanks DB, I really like the arrows in the "six stinger" thread. I might order marabou feathers and do something similar to yours to make these pop when they hit the target.
"bur" if I can add a little help in "useablity". I know this is not a word but I like to make arrows that is usable and DURABLE. Wrap the front of the fletching with some thread and it will help to eliminate issues with shooting off a shelf. also wrap below the nock to keep the nock from splitting out. Notice the small details of the arrows I post. it is not for looks its for functionality.....all of those details are for a reason. :)
DBar
Yep, all good advice.
-
Thanks DB, I really like the arrows in the "six stinger" thread. I might order marabou feathers and do something similar to yours to make these pop when they hit the target.
"bur" if I can add a little help in "useablity". I know this is not a word but I like to make arrows that is usable and DURABLE. Wrap the front of the fletching with some thread and it will help to eliminate issues with shooting off a shelf. also wrap below the nock to keep the nock from splitting out. Notice the small details of the arrows I post. it is not for looks its for functionality.....all of those details are for a reason. :)
DBar
Thanks Dbar, I wrapped this one like you were talking about.(see pics)
This one is the matching hunting arrow with tonto point.
-
Wow, that's what I'm talk'n about...…:)
Looks good
DBar
-
Thanks!!
Now I just need to finish up 4 more.... They take a lot long than I thought, you guys make it look easy.
But totally worth it, they shoot like a dream!
-
Wow, that's what I'm talk'n about...…:)
+1
As you become comfortable doing this fletching wrap ya may wanna experiment with including less of the quill under wrap and less wrap down shaft.
I found that less thread achieved more svelte/elegant appearance.
-
Wow, that's what I'm talk'n about...…:)
+1
As you become comfortable doing this fletching wrap ya may wanna experiment with including less of the quill under wrap and less wrap down shaft.
I found that less thread achieved more svelte/elegant appearance.
Thanks, I will try that out on the next shaft. :OK