Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: IrishJay on December 05, 2018, 06:29:25 pm
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I'll be making my first tillering tree in the next couple days and I was hoping some of you could post some pics of your tillering trees. I'll be going simple, no ropes or pulleys, just a board with some notches, and I'm pretty sure I know how I'm going to do it, just looking for some reference.
Thanks,
Jay
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Sorry, Jay, I burned mine about 25 years ago. I use the rope and pulley. Jawge
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I'm with George. Rope and pulley is safer, less detrimental to the bow and you can see tiller from a distance.
A 2x4, a pulley and 10' of braided 3/8" nylon rope is all you need for it.
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I have to agree with the masters, but if you don't have room for the pulley set up, get a hardwood 2x4' or 2x6, and drill 1/2" peg holes every 1" down to at least 30". Use a hard wood peg1/2" and sanded to fit somewhat snug, but loose. Draw your string with both hands, or a draw loop centered on your projected Nock point, more or less. I used a 2x6 piece of redwood, drilled every 2" and marked every inch, worked more or less! Finally got the tiller done at MOJAM on a tree that was setup for pulley! Use what is best for your circumstances. Btw, I'm a newbie and still finding my way!
Hawkdancer
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The BIG advantage of rope and pulley is that you can stand back and watch how the bow flexes dynamically... which sections are actually flexing. It tells you a lot more than a static view.
Del
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I dont have much room in my shop so every thing needs to be portable and compact , you can make a real simple off set 2 x 4 on a 2x4 post pulley system and clamp it in a vice , it works great takes about 30 min to make & you can put every thing away when done !
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tillering trees are for rookies..lol...no seriously ,after you build a few bows and the set is too much because of the strain you put on your bow because of the tillering tree... you also will throw it away... gut
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I agree with the others. I had a tiller tree with pegs that I used on my 1st two bows. It's now retired in my attic. I should burn it though.
To think about all the unnecessary stress you put on a bow by holding it at full draw for minutes at a time while you are analyzing your next move makes me a little sick to my stomach now.
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Ok, ok, you talked me into it, I'll do a rope and pulley setup.
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LOL, Jay. My set up is portable. It clamps in a woodworker's vice. The top clamps to a joist so there is no flopping around. The area around and under the vice is reenforced with plywood.
Here's a photo from my site.
http://traditionalarchery101.com/directions.html
There's more on my site too.
Jawge
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Ok, ok, you talked me into it, I'll do a rope and pulley setup.
You wont regret that decision.
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Glad everyone talked you into rope pully and you might as well put a scales in there. Like Weylin said you won't regret it.
Bjrogg
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Its Tiller Time! Like most things I need to build for my projects I built this out of scrap wood and odd hardware I had stowed away in coffee cans with old mismatched screws. That said I didnt have any pulleys, but I did have an old steel eyelet, so I made it work.
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Pic
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You will not regret it. Now measure down from the back of the bow handle, and mark the 2x4 in inches so you can know how far you are pulling each time, and never pull past your desired finished draw weight.
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Yeah, I'm not sure how well you can see it in the pic, but I put a piece of electrical tape on the face of my scale to mark my desired draw weight, and I have not been pulling the needle past the edge of the tape. The top limb (left in the pic) is bending pretty nicely, the bottom limb (right in pic) is considerably stiffer, but I knew it was going to be because it's a bit thicker. So, all of my work this evening was on getting the stiff limb bending like the other. It's not there yet but I definitely made progress. Once I get the bottom limb bending like the top I think I'll be able to brace the bow.
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You guys sold me as well, gonna have to retire the pain in the a$$ tree, then take one of the great ideas here and make a pully system.
I like the idea of hanging a system from the ceiling. :)
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Put some peg holes in your tree so you can hold the string for gizmo checks.
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I do like Mr. Krewson showed...but really, what is the difference between that and a tiller tree? never could figure that one out other than the pulley system allows you work the bow easier than just pulling it down with your hands on a tiller tree.
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There isn't a difference but notice the holes only go to 20" (I'm assuming the holes don't keep going out to full draw). 20" is my cutoff for holding the draw more than a few seconds. If your bend is pretty even, you should be fairly safe to hold draw < 20". That's why it's a good idea to get your tiller correct early in the tiller process.
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Well, I got it braced, but it broke a few pulls later at knot in the top limb. See my earlier post about my stave being questionable. So it was good practice and i learned a few things for the next one.
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Sorry for your loss but that's the right attitude.
Better luck next time.
Bjrogg
PS do you know what weight it was at when it broke?
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It was about 3/4 draw and 35lbs. I was going for about 43lbs @ 29.5" so that I'd end up just over 45lbs after toasting the belly.
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Yeah it looks like you have learned a lot.
Get you a decent stave or board, and you'll be well on your way.
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I only leave a bow string hooked on the peg for about 10 seconds, just enough time to get a tillering gizmo check.
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Jay, start another soon. I bet you are glad you were not under that stave on the tree when it broke. Jawge
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Very true George. Although, as my first time seeing a bow fail, it was not as explosive of a failure as I would have expected. It made a loud pop, jumped about 6" up and then fell the the floor. It didnt even bounce off the garage door or anything ;)
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(https://i.imgur.com/ftoDy4O.jpg) Pulley system