Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: IrishJay on December 07, 2018, 02:59:23 pm
-
So, my first attempt at a bow failed while tillering. I did some digging around in my shop for what I was thinking was an old oak 1x10, once I found the board in question I checked the markings on it and it turns out I was mistaken is not oak, its Lodge Pole pine. Its marked as 1x10, but actual thickness is 3/4". I cut a 2" wide strip from it with ZERO KNOTS, and tapered it starting at the full 2" width 14" from the tips down to 5/8" at the tips.
Thoughts or suggestions?
-
set it aside, and get a new board.
-
Although it has been done, Pine is not bow wood.
-
I'm going stave hunting tomorrow in a couple of areas that have alot of standing dead/leaners. The one area I'm going to hit definitely has some osage. After the break in the last bow I have a much better idea what to look for when picking staves so hopefully I can find some decent knot-free stuff. I'll be targeting oak, ash, and osage. Probably won't pass up hickory if I find a nice piece either.
-
I would only take dead standing if it was Osage or maybe Yew. And then it would be a judgement call depending on how long it had been dead.
-
I agree with all the advice that you've been given
Bjrogg
-
I wouldn't pass on boards quite yet. Are you near any decently sized hardware/lumber stores? If you're patient enough, you can find some oak, hickory, or hard maple that'll work. Even if you do find some wood, it'll take some time to season. Why not take a crack at a $10-20 board!
-
If it is clean old growth lodgepole I would give it another try. Sinew back it and make it wide. If I had it I would give it a try. Some Siberian bows were made from pine and spruce. They searched out compression wood.
-
On second thought, ditto Chuck's idea on Siberian compression pine. Somewhere out on the Google, there is a photo essay on Finns building a compression pine belly, birch backed bow. Black and white photo essay. Watching these men make a composite bow with hand tools mocks our modern problems.
Ordered some hide glue and sinew, finally. I guess we eventually all try sinew, lol.
What I am saying, make a lighter weight bow. You roughed it out. Tiller it, pine is easy to rasp out. Learn.
-
Jay, standing dead is no good unless it is black locust or osage. Lodge pole pine is good for arrows. Never heard it used for bows though Tim Baker says it is possible with special care.
A straight grained red oak board will do you well. Let it bend in the handle. Handle is the widest point. Backing it is good. Linen, silk and burlap will work. No glued on handles.
Info on my site. You can rip the board 1 3/8" to make it easier to shot.
http://traditionalarchery101.com/boardbowbuildalong.html
Jawge
-
Well if nothing else I'm getting alot of practice at cutting handles/riser blocks.
-
Why do you need a glued on handle? Even if you were to do a handle bow shaping can be done after full draw.
A good first bow can be made from a red oak board that is 1 3/8" wide and bends in the handle, with no glued on handle?
Jawge
-
What's up with that grain shooting off the top of the back. Hope the bending section does not do that. I got a expensive doug fir board I'm starting on. Hope it makes a respectable bow. The growth rings in the wood are tiny. Like pages of a book. I have high hopes.
-
George, the glued on handles are just a matter of personal preference, that's what I'm used to shooting with my recurve.
-
I got a expensive doug fir board I'm starting on. Hope it makes a respectable bow. The growth rings in the wood are tiny. Like pages of a book. I have high hopes.
:) please keep us posted ,Chuck.
Irish,
Georges suggestion about a bend in the handle is a good one for a pine bow. you will need as much bending as possible. I have used larch and fir also.
try to keep the bow about 2.5 times as long as the drew length you are shooting for. A war bow type design can be a sweet shooter, albeit in a more conventional poundage.
yes I agree that conifers are not the woods of choice for top performance, but sometimes its about the fun and experience gained,
-
Got it braced, the it blew at about 45lb @14"
That's pretty much the exact same thing that happened with the last one.
-
Obviously personal preference, Jay, but I'm trying to guide you towards getting a bow in your hand the easiest and quickest way possible.
But I can see you want to go about it your way.
So I shall leave you be. :)
Jawge
-
Where did it break?
-
2 places on the upper limb
-
From what I saw you went for a perfect shape over following the rings and grain. If you want to make a bow like that you need something like yew. Your trying a bow wood that is a challenge for a expert bowyer. From the photos I saw I would not use that wood. It is not tight ringed old growth. Unless you just like sympathy don't even think about posting your about to break box elder bow. I'd take pine over that wood. Love your effort but want to see you make a shooting bow with a easier wood
-
Jay,
You should be able to Find some good hickory back there. Somebody may trade you a stave.
Hawkdancer