Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: Swampman on December 10, 2018, 03:58:57 pm
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I thought I would start a build along from the block of wood that Wayne from TSA archery sent me. Please be advised this is my first time building arrows this way and my progress may be slow. I may even do it wrong and mess them up.
Here is the block of wood i got in the mail. I believe it is Sitka Spruce.
(http://i.imgur.com/6dqYId8.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/k9XKTnv.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/LPakUkI.jpg)
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I have a small craftsman table saw that I have had for at least 25 years. I bought a new blade for it and set the fence to 3/8 inches. I ripped two 3/8 inch slices off the block and then cut those slices 3/8 inches wide. Here is where I am right now.
(http://i.imgur.com/wgBzdVx.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/UBP3Dl3.jpg)
I have seven 3/8 inch square arrows right now. I plan to hand plane them down from these one at a time. Not sure when I will get to that but when I do, I will post the progress.
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heres a quick pointer that may help some :)
one side of that block will have an edge grain ( 1/4 grain) face on it, and you will want to cut your boards so that you have edge grain boards- thats the trick!
then you can take a pencil with not too sharp a point, and you can , by applying a little pressure, run a line down following the edge grain lines.
now shim that board so that that pencil line is parallel to your fence- then cut your blanks- now you have perfectly straight grained blanks.
if you build a sled for your saw ( table or bandsaw) which registers with the miter slot on your tables platen, you can clamp the flitch ( board) to the sled with toggle clamps, and get your pencil mark parallel to the fence using a tape measure, then you can cut perfect blanks.
after cutting the first blank, you now have a true straight edge- and can remove the flitch from the sled, and then just cut blanks against the fence.
IIRC, and from what i can see, that board has the edge grain on the large face side, so that will make cutting edge grain boards very difficult, so you can cut off a block at a reasonable size, that will allow you to cut decent manageable boards when you flip the block, to get the required edge grain boards.
this little bit of fooling around, will pay dividends and produce beautiful straight grained shafts.
good luck mate!
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heres a link to a nice sled build, but you dont need it all adjustable to cut the shafts- you can adjust the flitch's pencil line and secure it in place with the toggle clamps.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XjV-NciUP7A
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Thanks for info Wayne. Before I cut anymore off that block, I will definitely look at the grain closer. I can't build that jig as my table saw is too small. My blade wouldn't make it through the block of wood. I can put a temporary fence clamped on that will accomplish the same thing. Here is a picture of my small table saw.
(http://i.imgur.com/UkzMoLF.jpg)
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Meanwhile, I used my thumb plane and rounded off a couple of the squares while watching Monday night football. I simply hold it in my hand and take wood off. I have a piece of scrap black locust with a 3/8 inch hold drilled in it. I use that to slightly compress the wood and make it round. I will still need to sand them.
(http://i.imgur.com/9lRRVMx.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/3GZJc03.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/wCwCiOr.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Fkt3ncy.jpg)
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I looked over the grain from the 3/8 inch squares and it appears i got lucky with my first two cuts off that block. The grain runs straight down the length of the blocks. I have a little wiggle on one end of the blocks but that will be cut off. It appears Wayne sent me a block of wood already squared up.
Thanks Wayne!
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the block should have been square , as it came directly off our head saw. but i dont trust anything ;)
nicely done on those shafts, :OK
our cants are 37" long, so there should be lots of wriggle room to trim off less than perfect ends.
the nice thing about hand making the shafts, is that you can make the exact spine you want. Spruce is very consistent, once you figure out the diameter you need to get your required spine, it should be pretty much the same- for the same area in the block.
nice work, that block will keep you out of trouble for a while!! :BB
Thats good, if you dont need to monkey around with the sled.
i have a similar craftsman saw ( not as old though :D) , and if you ever need too, its really easy to make a simple sled for them.
just cut a strip of hardwood that will fit the miter slot in the table top, nice and snug, but will still move freely, and screw that to a piece of scrap plywood- attach some toggle clamps and its done!
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Well, I had some time today to do some more hand planing. I planed them down to my 3/8 inch sizing hole. I then hand sanded each of the shafts.
(http://i.imgur.com/KYznHSu.jpg)
I cut the shafts down to 28 inches. This is shorter than I usually make my arrows but I am planning to pair them with a shorter draw black locust bow that I plan to Turkey hunt with.
(http://i.imgur.com/Fq9lnWt.jpg)
I sanded the shafts a little more until they all fit through my 23/64 inch hole on my scrap piece of black locust.
From here I plan to spine and finish one arrow first and test shoot it from my bow. I will then work on the other 5 arrows.
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Good evaluating process shown to get a nice set of matched arrows for your bow Swampman.Nice looking shafts.Will you stain them any before finishing?
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In case anyone is keeping track, I did have seven blocks of wood and now I only have 6 shafts. I got impatient on my last block and I forced my sizing block over the shaft. I did this on all of them a little to slightly compress them. I got lazy on the last one and didn't plane enough off and then pushed to hard and broke it.
Six is a nice even number anyway :)
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Patience, Grasshopper! >:D (lol). Happens every now and then! I'm sort of sizing & straightening some red osier dogwood to make a set of arrows for my landowner, about 30# and 25"
Hawkdancer
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Good evaluating process shown to get a nice set of matched arrows for your bow Swampman.Nice looking shafts.Will you stain them any before finishing?
Yes I do plan on staining before finishing. I have a bunch of different stains so I will experiment with the broken shaft to see what I like.
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I spent a little bit of time straightening the shafts. I have a homemade straightener I used. It is simply a piece of willow with a brass hook screwed into the end of it. I use it to compress the fibers of the outside of any bends. The shafts straightened very easily with just a little bit of work.
(http://i.imgur.com/N4stF2S.jpg)
I had a homemade spine tester before I moved a little over a year ago. I had to take it apart to move and now I can't find it. I have been planning to buy a spine tester anyway so I will be upgrading in the near future. In the meantime I think I will go ahead and cut self nocks in the shafts. I will post pictures as I make progress.
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In case anyone is keeping track, I did have seven blocks of wood and now I only have 6 shafts. I got impatient on my last block and I forced my sizing block over the shaft. I did this on all of them a little to slightly compress them. I got lazy on the last one and didn't plane enough off and then pushed to hard and broke it.
Six is a nice even number anyway :)
This is why I always start with 7, so that I can get 6. one shaft is usually too weak to meet spine anyway.
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So I should start with 8 or 9 ;D ;D
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make it an even dozen to be sure. :D
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When I break a shaft, that is when I know I should probably set the project aside and come back to the project later.
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i have a similar craftsman saw ( not as old though :D) , and if you ever need too, its really easy to make a simple sled for them.
just cut a strip of hardwood that will fit the miter slot in the table top, nice and snug, but will still move freely, and screw that to a piece of scrap plywood- attach some toggle clamps and its done!
And ya can often use thin plywood for your sled base, thus maximizing cut height of saw.
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And instead of screws or clamps 5 min epoxy works. It's thick enough to bridge small gaps so you can square things up. It doesn't soak in so it cleans right off. Sometimes it even peels off. And most importantly if you screw up the saw goes right through it, no harm done. ;D ;D
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I got a little bit more done last night. I got self nocks cut into the arrows.
I clamp the arrow into my vice with leather wrapped around the arrow. I make my first cut with a coping saw making sure go across the grain rather than with the grain.
(http://i.imgur.com/CdZlWxS.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/7HoHCDM.jpg)
After the first shallow cut with my coping saw, I then grab my hack saw with a round abrasive blade on it and cut the nock in. I use a small file as a depth guide so that I can get each nock cut to the same depth.
(http://i.imgur.com/6y7vk0G.jpg)
After the nock is cut, I clean it up with a small file and sandpaper. I will eventually wrap deer sinew around the bottom of the nocks to give them added strength.
Here are the arrows.
(http://i.imgur.com/lfRjiva.jpg)
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So you don't end up with snap on nocks? I like seeing how different people make their nocks. I haven't found a way that makes me all warm and fuzzy inside. :D
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There's certainly bunch of "personal preference" when it comes to carving self nocks. From authentic NA styles to beautifully shaped/finished ones that put a plastic nock to shame.
But no matter how shaped, a consistently done set of self-nocked arras like these always give me warm feeling not to be touched by those oil-derived ones. (SH)
Absolutely personal preference!
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Where did you find a round hacksaw blade? I must be shopping the wrong places (lol)! On the other hand, I haven't looked for one, either, but it sounds like a neat tool!
Hawkdancer
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It's called a tile saw. You can get hacksaw length or short ones that come with a wire handle. Big box stores have them.
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There's certainly bunch of "personal preference" when it comes to carving self nocks. From authentic NA styles to beautifully shaped/finished ones that put a plastic nock to shame.
But no matter how shaped, a consistently done set of self-nocked arras like these always give me warm feeling not to be touched by those oil-derived ones. (SH)
Absolutely personal preference!
I don't like the look of plastic nocks but I've never used them. The probably work great. When it comes to self nocks there seems to be a bunch of different methods of doing almost the same thing. I like the idea of snap on self nocks but I've not had good luck finishing the bottom of the nock without messing up the snap on part.
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There's certainly bunch of "personal preference" when it comes to carving self nocks. From authentic NA styles to beautifully shaped/finished ones that put a plastic nock to shame.
But no matter how shaped, a consistently done set of self-nocked arras like these always give me warm feeling not to be touched by those oil-derived ones. (SH)
Absolutely personal preference!
I don't like the look of plastic nocks but I've never used them. The probably work great. When it comes to self nocks there seems to be a bunch of different methods of doing almost the same thing. I like the idea of snap on self nocks but I've not had good luck finishing the bottom of the nock without messing up the snap on part.
Drill a hole first where you want the base to be. cut a narrow slot down to this hole. use a flat file to allow your string to fit through tightly. Now use a round file to expand the hole until your bow string fits well, and then widen the slot until the arrow holds on the string, but releases when tapped lightly. I also use a 90-degree block sander to open up the end a little. If you check out the bamboo arrow how-to on the how-to page, it has a better explanation, but if done right, it makes a nice snap-on self knock.
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That is very similar to what I do but when I try to smooth out the edges with the round file I mess up the narrow part that snaps on. Inept I guess :D
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I do put snap nocks on the bamboo arrows I make. However, I got this new abrasive blade in a box of items at a garage sale so I wanted to try it out on these arrows. It worked very well and left the nock so with just a bit of sanding and the arrow just fits perfectly in the bow string that these arrows will be shot out of.
I didn't show this step, but I also use a triangle file on the opening to give the nock a slight V shape so they go on the string easily.
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DC, thanks for the info on the saw blade - helps to know what the proper nomenclature is! I have been drilling a 3/32 pilot hole, then using an exacto blade to open up the slot before filing, usually with diamond needle files. I do use a sinew wrap to strengthen the nock, and sometimes a silk thread decorator wrap. Set up a jig in a block of maple that works pretty good on straight shafts, only semi good on shoots.
Hawkdancer
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I haven't had time to work on these for awhile but I had some time today. I messed up on the self nocks I did so I cut them off and redid them. The tile saw i used was too wide for the string on the bow I am making these for so I went back to the way I usually make self nocks.
I use two hack saw blades taped together to cut the initial slot. I cut to the depth of the blade.
(http://i.imgur.com/bhlCkqM.jpg)
I used a drill bit to round out the bottom of the slot.
(http://i.imgur.com/uJ78bP4.jpg)
I use a triangle file to open up the top of the slot.
(http://i.imgur.com/madDiC7.jpg)
I then used a small file to open up the slot so the nock just slides onto the bow string. I actually tested it this time as I worked on the nocks.
(http://i.imgur.com/o7ezBYj.jpg)
I then cleaned everything up with sand paper to get nocks that snap onto the bow string. I am happier with these nocks.
(http://i.imgur.com/RWBhnI9.jpg)
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I now have a new spine tester.
(http://i.imgur.com/Dv2nvIU.jpg)
I tested the spine on each arrow and they were anywhere from 65 to 85 pound spines. These were way to high for the 52 pound bow these arrows will be paired with. I then proceeded to scrape and sand the arrows, testing the spine until they all came down to the 50 pound mark i was looking for.
(http://i.imgur.com/m5HAxfy.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/vPLzDJ3.jpg)
I also tapered the end of the arrows to accept 11/32 glue on points. I used a tool similar to a pencil sharpener and it works ok but I think in the future I will build a jig for my belt sander for this. I think I will get a cleaner taper that way.
(http://i.imgur.com/JoWFrA1.jpg)
I weighed the arrows and they all are within 15 grains. The lightest is 315 grains and the largest is 330 grains. I am pretty happy with this. I will pair them with 125 grain glue on points.
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I am enjoying this thread Swampman. It is a very good build along.
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excellent job Swampman, you have done that block of wood justice!! :OK :OK
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Looking really nice Mike. I'm still looking at my block of wood every day yet. I've got to many projects going now to even think about starting on it. It's really nice to see your progress though. I sure hope you get a turkey with one of them.
Bjrogg
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Thanks Bj. This spruce is really nice to work with. I think you will enjoy it.
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I got a little more work done on these arrows. First I applied stain on them. The stain did not spam in very well though. I sanded the arrows to 600 grit and I think they are sanded so smooth the stain doesn't penetrate much. I used walnut stain and the arrows did not get very dark, but they do look good.
I made a cresting jig and then painted a cresting on them. I used red and black to match the painting on the bow these arrows will be matched up with. I am not very good at this but I am happy with the results.
(http://i.imgur.com/H1Rfz4v.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/mqeJ8ZA.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/hixfURx.jpg)
My next step is to do one more round of straightening and then I am going to seal them with spar urethane. I have used this in the past with good results. Then I will have to split, grind and chop some feathers.
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Looking good! Ready to see the finished set!
Hawkdancer
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Here are the arrows after 2 coats of spar urethane. I found a good way to hang the arrows to dry.
(http://i.imgur.com/iLdyLKq.jpg)
I did intend to wrap the nocks with sinew before putting the urethane on but I guess I forgot that step. I will still do that but I guess it will have to wait for the urethane to dry now.
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One of them got away! (lol) >:D. Neat idea!
Hawkdancer
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One of them got away! (lol) >:D. Neat idea!
Hawkdancer
Very observant! I could only hang 5 on that bow hanger. I had one other arrow on the hanger on another wall.
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I went to my garage and found that I already had enough goose feathers split, ground and chopped. This allowed me to finish up these arrows today.
(http://i.imgur.com/fiPJFRB.jpg)
I used fletch tape and a jo Jan fletching jig. This process moved pretty quickly.
(http://i.imgur.com/Op7lL2j.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/kjUBtx4.jpg)
After the arrows are all fletched, I will wrap the front edge of the fletchings with sinew. I will also wrap the nocks with sinew too. Here are the arrows with fletchings on.
(http://i.imgur.com/O0FRLSW.jpg)
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Outstanding job on those arrows! Those goose feathers look very professionally done, could you do a split, grind, and chop along for those of us that like to butcher perfectly good feathers? ;)
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I glued on 125 grain brass practice points with heat glue. I also wrapped backstrap deer sinew at the front of the fletchings and the front of the nocks. I chew the sinew strips to soften them and then wrap and put tight bond 3 glue over the top of the wraps.
Here the arrows are all finished up.
(http://i.imgur.com/cQNapW7.jpg)
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Here are a couple more pictures. The arrows seem to match very well with the bow I built these for. Come Turkey season i will replace the practice tips with 125 grain broadheads. I am very happy with these arrows.
(http://i.imgur.com/7npiTam.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/gDu46Fe.jpg)
I was only shooting at 12 yards but my max range will only be 20 yards. Hopefully I can get a turkey that close this spring.
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Outstanding job on those arrows! Those goose feathers look very professionally done, could you do a split, grind, and chop along for those of us that like to butcher perfectly good feathers? ;)
Morgan,
I could probably do that sometime in the not too distant future.
Thanks for looking.
Mike
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Those arrows look great Mike. The goose feathers are sweet. Match your markings nicely.
Bjrogg
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I like em!! :OK
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Very nice set! Now, to get my goose feathers off the wings, split and ground!
Hawkdancer
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Great build along. They look great.
Where do you get blocks of Sitka like that! Does TSA sell them. All the Sitka I can get is 7/16” x4” and is very slim picking as far as quality
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TSA (Wayne) has his contact info on his post in this thread. They have lots of neat stuff as far as wood is concerned. Not sure about block, though.
Hawkdancer
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Great build along. They look great.
Where do you get blocks of Sitka like that! Does TSA sell them. All the Sitka I can get is 7/16” x4” and is very slim picking as far as quality
I don't think True Shaft Archery (TSA) sells blocks of Sitka but it wouldn't hurt to contact Wayne and see. I got this block because I was lucky and won a giveaway Wayne did on this site. I think I will probably be able to build at least 50 arrows out of this block of wood. Again, I feel pretty fortunate to have won this.
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Nice build along, enjoyed reading through it. Those are some top notch arrows! Thanks Mike and TSA.
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It was enjoyable to go back and read your posts from the beginning. Thanks for taking the time to bring us along for ride.
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Nice arrows, enjoyed the build along, nice shooting also. :)
Pappy
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I am glad people enjoyed the build. I have wanted to build arrows this way for a long time so winning that block of wood was definitely appreciated. It is not the fastest way to build arrows but may be the most satisfying way!
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I know what you mean by not the fastest - working blanks/shoots down is a pita, but when they get finished it is a great feeling of accomplishment! I can't really see spending $100+ for a dowel maker if I can drill some holes in steel and do the same job of sizing - straighteng is an other challenge!
Hawkdancer