Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Deerhunter21 on February 13, 2019, 04:44:49 pm
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I bought a red oak board hoping to make my first "serious" bow (I didn't want to buy or cut a stave for my first bow :) ). I got pretty straight grain but at the end of the bow the grain starts to run off. I already got my design drawn and handle shaped for a 6 ft American flatbow and I didn't change the size of the fade area but changed the size of the limbs taper in (Newbie terminology ;D ), that can still be changed if needed. I would appreciate any tips or advice. thanks!
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Welcome to PA! How much of the end has grain run off. If it's only a couple inches, the ends may not be bending anyway, or you may be able to just shorten the overall length of the bow. You have any pics of the board? That may help everyone to help you figure it out.
Tattoo Dave
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http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/board,6.0.html
DH
if you narrow the questions down some.....
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Tattoo Dave, It has about 2-3 inches of runoff but its not as drastic. the pictures I will get tomorrow. (SH)
Willie, some questions I have is what backings do and what tools will make life easier? Also when I'm ready where to get staves?
Thanks!
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Well if you have power tools that would make life a lot easier. A band saw is the most used saw in my shop, and a belt sander is great too. If no power tools, any saw would be helpful. A scraper would be helpful also.
Backings can be any number of things. Some common backings in the Primitive world are rawhide, sinew, silk, birch bark, or you can also back with other woods.
If you don’t have access to cut trees or limbs from trees, you could always trade stuff for staves on the trade thread here. Can’t buy or sell on here but trades for stave happen often. Where about in the world are you?
Tattoo Dave
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Tattoo Dave I live South East Nebraska around Lincoln.
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Just an observation on the drawing. If you taper the thickness of the part where the width tapers, you will end up with a whip-tillered bow--bending too much in the outer two thirds.
Also, pin nocks are practical, but not pretty.
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You can make that with a good rasp,,.a lighter bow no need to glue on handle,,,I think the pin mocks are pretty :)
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Just an observation on the drawing. If you taper the thickness of the part where the width tapers, you will end up with a whip-tillered bow--bending too much in the outer two thirds.
I don't think I understand the whip tiller part. what should I do to make sure that doesn't happen?
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Deerhunter, leave the outer 6" of the limb tips stiff by leaving them thick(about 1/2"). Leave the width at least 1" for now. After you get to first brace and see how the string tracks then narrow the tips but leave the thickness. You don't need finished tips to tiller your bow. By leaving the tips wide you can move the tip to one side or the other to line the string up. Same with the handle area. Leave it wide, deep and unfinished until you determine which limb will be the top and you can move the handle to one side or the other for string alignment.
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Pat B
Centimeters or Inches?
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Tattoo Dave, It has about 2-3 inches of runoff but its not as drastic. the pictures I will get tomorrow. (SH)
Willie, some questions I have is what backings do and what tools will make life easier? Also when I'm ready where to get staves?
Thanks!
for most american hardwoods, you should not even need a backing, that is if you are thinking about rawhide or canvas or such. some put them on board bows, but good board selection and careful tillering are reccomended either way. Backings for "insurance" are difficult to access. If a bow with a backing never breaks, how do you know it would have broke without it? And if a bow without a backing breaks, one needs to understand why, and many will say that the if the wood was not up to the job, then a backing would not have helped.
you have not said if you have access to power tools or you plan to use hand tools. Boards and the kind of design you posted lend themselves to power tools as the design makes use of straight lines and dried boards. bubby posted a easy board bow in the how to section.
hand tools and green wood work well together, at least for roughing out a bow stave. I don't live any where near Nebraska, but if I did I would definitely be looking to put up a few hickory or elm staves. when the sap starts to rise, the bark is loose, so its a good time to collect some staves. if you were to start a thread looking for "stave harvesting tips and tricks in nebraska", you might get some very good advice from some guys not too far from you. At any rate getting some staves drying while you are working on the board bow makes sense. staves can be cut in winter too, some even prefer winter cut. a stave collected half way through the summer in not going to be the best.
collecting your own staves give you the assurance that you have acquired the best you can get. not something that easily or cheaply boughten
as to where? any old swamp or hedgerow. you don't need a very big tree if it is hickory or elm a sapling will do for a truly primitive design.
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Pat B
Centimeters or Inches?
Inches. End quote mark ( " ) means inches.
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What are some designs guys? If you have any can you post pics? Thx! )-w( )-w(
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Choose straight grained stock. No knots. I like red oak as it easy to find.
There is a a buildalongs on my site for a red oak bend in the handle bow. You can modify the the width to 1 3/8" for a 45# bow if yo tiller well.
Jawge
http://traditionalarchery101.com
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I'm not used to using metrics so all my measurements are in inches.
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25 mm to the inch" is close enough for government work! There are a few loose thousandths, but they shouldn't affect bowmaking too much! I'm with Pat, I"ll stick with inches. Btw, welcome aboard!
Hawkdancer
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Thanks for the help guys! Im almost done but my pictures are too big any tips for that and if I figure it out ill send the pics! :BB
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I size them smaller on my computer
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OK I'll try that
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I use a program called gimp to do these pics. Its free and its pretty easy to use. You can shrink the file size and edit the pics in all kinds of ways. It has more functions than I will ever use or even understand, but its free and easy.
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I look forward to seeing them!
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I'm on to the tillering. been floor tillering and it bends nicely. Anyone have a good way for a first timer to tiller? should I make a tillering tree? if so can you guys help me. Thanks!
Russ
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You can make a tree for sure, and if you stay at this for any time, you’ll build one sooner or later. I made lots of bows without one so it’s not a must. A tillering stick makes it easier by letting you draw it a step back and look at the bend, but even that is not a must. You can have someone draw the bow and just look at it and note where you need it to work more or less. Just depends on how you want to proceed. Spend time building these devices before you move forward or spend that time building a bow.
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SE Nebraska...I’d figure there has to be Osage out there. I spent some time on a farm outside Lincoln 20 years ago. My advice would be start hunting for staves now and give them some time to season.
Hope to see your #1 turn out!
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I'm on to the tillering. been floor tillering and it bends nicely. Anyone have a good way for a first timer to tiller? should I make a tillering tree? if so can you guys help me. Thanks!
Russ
Russ,
tillering tree with a rope and pulley at the bottom is a good way to go
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