Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: globalmark on April 06, 2019, 02:50:52 pm
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Hi
Just been given this Yew log by a Old Famous Bowyer that lives local to me in the UK - he's had for 20 years but doesnt make yew bows anymore due to the dust almost killed him.
so will try and make a yew bow or 2 and make some laminations out anything left ..
But due to the big Knots in one side i was wondering if anyone had a idea of best way to split it into halves or anything .
It already has some shakes and splits doesnt look like had ever been end sealed - so not sure will get any Billets out of it but like to try
I have split a few logs before but these big knots in one side look like if done wrong will ruin this..
So if anyone has some experience on splitting these funny shaped logs - is it best to try to split it through the middle of the knots or should i keep them in one half ..
or shall i just Bandsaw this in Half ?
Thanks Mark
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I typically split through knots, but it can be risky. If the opposite face is clean sometimes I’ll leave the knots on the opposite split. It all depends on what each face looks like and whether I’m confident I can get a clean split to get two staves. I don’t bandsaw any of my staves, but it may be the safest bet.
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Saw would be my preference.
I'd suggest as shown below, should get 2 billets from the lower portion, may get 2 smaller from the upper.
Del
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Hi
Thanks Guys
Sounds like a saw is best bet - i will give it a go and see what happens
cheers Mark
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My suggested saw cuts don't take into account the knots, as I can't see where they are on that pic. I'm going by the asymmetry of the growth rings.
Del
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HI
thanks - i cut on Bandsaw - maybe got 4 billets - but might only get 1 bow as lots shakes and cracks through it .
the rest i made some laminations - cut on bandsaw then through Thicknesser , but also not great so maybe 2-3 might be ok for a bow as middle Lams or something or handle pieces .
cheers for help '
Mark
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not great billets but gonna give a go here - managed to Glue up 2 staves from the 4 billets
1 bow should be ok as nice matching pair but other stave not sure we will see .
used draw knife to get ends of billets to size
marked stave to string line of both will approx go through handle
stuck on with PVC card with splice marked
stuck on scrap wood so can cut splice square
cut on bandsaw then cleaned up with bandsaw and small rasp/file
few test fits then glued .
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few more pics - splice cut and glued with Smooth-on as didn't have any Urea Formaldyhyde (preferred glue when timber concerned)
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Looks like a great splice! Is that the belly side we're looking at mostly? Are you going to back it with something?
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HI DC
Thanks - for me the trick of good joint in all woodwork - sharp tools , patience and properly set up saws (ie Bandsaw - 100% right angle table to blade - blade tightness perfect and blade guides adjusted)
NO not the Belly thats the Back of the bow the sapwood of the Yew - i have cut it away as the sapwood was way to thick , but still need shaping and chase a few rings if i can .
i wasn't going to Back it as its English yew so has the sapwood and nice heartwood - but i was considering a small Handle piece to reinforce the splice - but will see when start shaping if needs it ..
But never say never so if one of the 2 staves looks dodgy might do something ?
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yew stave in clamps
yew staves removed clamps
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marking out
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left stave roughed out compared to other
marked out for shaping
heated stave to straighten - tied up until cool down - heated with heat gun
2nd stave marked and started shaping
thats all had time for today
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Very nice on the spliceing ,ready to see the rest
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doesn't look anything different
but got to rough shape today - almost to dimensions - next onto the tiller tree
doing 2 bows at same time so taking longer - 1 bow will be good but other maybe just OK
Pic - got some guy in one of the worst shakes - think will be fine as near the handle anyway so a precaution..
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Nice! looking forward to this one!
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Had Bit more time today - got one bow on the Tiller maybe 80% done(the bow i think not as good as other one) and 2nd Bow i chased all the sapwood rings - Unfortunately I had to cut the sapwood thinner as was over 1" thick - which means I have to chase rings -
best Tool for this is Rasp - File - cabinet scraper flat - Gooseneck scraper to get left over pieces ..
1st check on tiller tree -
few check on tiller - lots scraping with scraper in-between
last check on tiller tree today - little bit more but almost there - this stave was so uneven and had recurve and bent wrong way had to get a perfect arch .
scraping upper rings (whiter part) carefully around knots
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Orange part ring I want white part upper ring I am scraping away
side view showing Knots
this Limb mostly done
Using final scraper Gooseneck - so useful to get those slightly indented upper rings
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stave done for today - all my tools I use for this part in pic
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OK back to the Build - Hit a Snag - Bow B the one that had the odd shape NOT even shaped stave has been going good , But Stave A the one i said was better as a perfect sister billets started twisting the string off when tried to brace it - loose string was fine but shorter string caused problems -
Details of fixing the twist in stave A is
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,65492.0.html
But thats fixed so continue with the build
where were we ??
cut temporary nock with small rasp file and started tillering - mainly with cabinet scraper but also file and rasp occasionally ..
Pics -
Bow B - pretty much tillered - might need small touch up
Bow A on tiller loose string
Bow A first few pulls
Bow A tiller more and more pulls - remembering exercise limb 10-20 times or more every time i return to the tree.
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Scraping more wood off
Back to tree for bow A - it was about after this Point i tried a shorter string and it just twisted it's self off and caused a Issue (look at other post to see how was fixed if interested )
Bow B - laying out for horn Nock (this is How Chris Boyton showed me and pretty effective) - Hold drill bit in line with bow shaft - pencil Line , cut to a wedge shape
Bow B - shaping with Rasp/file (sometimes start with small draw knife)
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Layout drill Bit again - on wedge
Square point after cut shape - now knock of corners with file
looks like this
test fit Nock - Rotate fast with hand and push - this makes shiny spots on timber , which file off with small fine file , wobble twist and check -
Nock fits correctly when NO wobble is felt ..
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How I clamp on my Nocks - bike Innertube wound round then over the top horizontal , wound round then over top vertical wound round and tied - friction on rubber tube is great - Glued with PVA glue , horn absorbs this just Fine (Chris Boyton tip)
Shaping Nock (other end then just showed) - i am not a great Carver - so just make sturdy strong probably bit thick Nocks ..use Files mainly and small rasp , sometimes break out the dremel with sanding drum if feeling lazy ...
Horn Nock finish (sanded to 150G)
Horn Nock Finished (sanded to 150G ) - to be fine sanded and polished
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Decided to add a extra piece on the Bow Back (sapwood) as was recommended to me if a splice ever breaks it does so on the Back - and i always like the Belt and braces technic so decided to put a small piece 6-7" long of sapwood ontop -
Bow sapwood glued on with Smooth-on , probably 4-5mm thick only , flattened and scribed with saw blade the faces before glued ..
Clamped on while glue drys , cling film and the Inner tube
Arrow rest - didn't have mother of Pearl so used some offcuts of horn . Filed a very slight taper on the sides (wedge shape) cabinet maker trick so when clamp the Horn get tigher in the Hole and makes tighter joints ..
Clamped in Vice (5min epoxy)
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Forgot Pictures before - But after Glue dried , rasp, file the horn smooth same profile as Bow or just a tiny bit proud of the wood
Pic of filed Arrow plate, rest
Sanded Handle add-on -side view
Sanded Bow with OLD 60grit paper , 80 grit then some 150G , then I put some cellulose Sanding sealer and sanded that off with worn 150G
Danish oil coat all over except the Nocks (they will be polished)
all bow 1 coat Danish Oil - due to climate here in the UK needs full 8hrs to dry between coats then i bring inside house to cool room at night to dry
I will use fine wire wool , dry wipe down after and do several coats of oil , more coats shinier it will become ..
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Back to Bow A while oil is drying
tiller was pretty much there - so next step Nocks (try not to repeat Pics as same process)
Drilled Horn with 16mm Spade Bit (ground to point)
got my 4 sided point then round it off , test fit wiggle , twist and wobble when happy Glue
NB -(see Hole ) had a Large knot just along from the handle went at 45% through to where arrow plate will be - had a dig and it fell Out , so made a pin to fit hole (not dowel as grain runs in same direction as bow wood inc sap wood and heart, probably overkill But i like that) glued that in with smooth-on then put my Handle add-on on top - rest of pin sticks out side and will get covered with arrow plate when do that .
Handle Add On - Flattened Bow Sapwood 6-7" long scrapped Sawblade alone for better glue grip
Clamped on handle with Inner tube
So Bow A is now in the heating cupboard letting smooth-on cure the handle - and the Nocks are also clamped and drying
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Todays Installment
Bow A Handle Add-on - out of clamps
Bow A Handle Shaping - can see the Peg i put in the KNOT hole - how grain runs same direction as Bow -
Bow A Handle Add-on shaped
Bow A Nock 1 before shaping
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BOW A Other Nock end before shaping
BOW A While shaping
BOW A Shaped and sanded to 400G - polished later
BOW A other end shaped
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Bow A Arrow Plate - Bone today as didn't have big enough offcuts of horn and run out of mother of pearl - but bone is harder then horn so should be fine .its bigger then Usual as i wanted to cover that Knot Plug i put in .
Bow A , Arrow plate clamped using vice - epoxy glue
Back to bow B while glue drys -
I like to use some left over CORK tiles (self adhesive backed) - just cut to rough size peel of backing and stick on , then can shape with rasp easily , can also layer it to make thicker which i do a lot if making a thin tri-laminate bow .
didn't photograph - try remember when do Bow A - but a simple leather grip (ends folded and glued together then mark the back and punch holes in leather and the stitch or glue and stitch on .
NB- will take off leather Handle again to oil Bow as easier and restitch later - might stain the leather also as bit light colour for me .
Thats Bow B mostly finished - need to Put name and weight (ordered new scale and wire wool, waiting for post) then will need rubbing down with fine wire wool and 4-5 more coats danish oil, rubbing down in-between .Then polish Nocks before final coat danish oil ... Made a string for Bow B today also - but Brace height is 6-7" and strange due to there being a lot Deflex in one LIMB and without tension i have maybe 3-4" brace already , but seems to shoot fine - considering this was my bad pieces of wood and wasn't sure i would even make a bow out of this -..
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Bow B - is in process being Danished Oiled - so far 6 coats - takes a while 8hrs between coats but looking nice .
Bow A - i filed the bone arrow plate - but still was not happy how the string sat - the limbs had to much Lateral movement still causing twist - so spent lots time with Heat Gun heating few spots and leaving over night to cool - but finally this morning string sits there really Happily ..
so Not much to report so Far - will upload more pics when sanded and oiled ..
In the Mean time been making few Bamboo Arrows as cut some bamboo from bush on local Common .
and cut the laminations straight that had left over as off cuts these also terrible timber - but possible use under glass or Bamboo as Mig layer or just Laminate loads together and make a Laminated Yew Bow ?
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Hi Guys
No post for a few days as takes Time to Danish Oil the Bows - 8hrs between coats with a fine wire wool rub down between , but today both finished .
AND decided make a Pyramid or flat bow with laminations that's also almost finished ..
Bow A - still was not happy so heat and straightened more like 5 times (this is my clamping and holding while cools)
Bow A after cooled still some wiggle but much straighter
Bow B - Polishing the Nocks ( had like 4-5 coats Danish Oil, then masked and polished nocks after will put 1 -2 more coats on ) _ pillar drill with polish mop on)
Bow B - polished Nock
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Bow B Finished
Bow B Finished _ this was the Dodgy Wood - 2 limbs different shapes - one with reflex and one with deflex , has a funny Brace as looks like has set - plus hell of a twist - but at 41Lbs seems shoot ok - not a great Bow but certainly not bad ..
Bow A - after straightening again - was 52lbs - but really Fast and a lot of shock - so decided to reduce this - did 20 strokes with Cabinet scraper on each limb , mainly flat on the belly and reduced to 43lbs - goes to show how much LBS reduce with such a small amount of wood . - had to tiller again little also ..
Bow A - Polish Nocks - after again 4-5 coast Danish Oil ..
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Bow A - after finished all Danish oil - use some CORK self adhesive tile cut strip stick on then shape with a rasp GENTLY
BOW A Braced
Both BOWS finished - Bow A did a wrap with 1.4mm suede (didn't skive the edge of leather just cut the end tapers and glued with Spray contact adhesive)
Both Bows Finished
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Both Finished Bows
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Both finished Bows
Thanks for all those who gave Help - enjoy
However Not finished as have all those Laminations making a bow so more to come
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Ok
What to do with all those twisted bad laminations - Make a bow what else hahah i was thinking they were to bad and thought maybe under some glass - but decided maybe get enough good wood if made a pyramid bow as can carefully cut out the bad bits and several layers might NOT break - lets hope ..
Made a Pine Template - mainly sport can see what parts of the dodgy Laminations can use - took ages spinning the lams and moving around
Many of the Lams were so twisted - i heated some to Straighten -make the grain as straight as possible
Cut out enough Laminations - i stacked them so one strip of all sapwood on top - and the edges of sapwood I reversed so didn't have sap wood on one side only (where possible anyway)
Made a solid bit Pine Base to Glue to approx same size as template (as didn't have enough spare wood to shave down after glue up - so needed it close as i could) - covered in Tape and will glue one limb to each side .
NB - Middle Lamination I put through Thicknesser again with Tapered Sled so Middle Lamination is Tapered slightly too the tips (same as my recurved bows)
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Laminations - scraped with saw blade give more glue area -
Limbs or laminations on my Glue stick covered in Clingfilm
Limbs wrapped in Innertube - all i had (also small pressure strips made from thin timber) - ready for heat cupboard - Smooth-on used
Limbs ready to clean and shape
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Limbs again - can see the splits and knots - but plenty of glue squeezed into all the defects - I hope
Limb Splice layout
Splice cut on Bandsaw
Splice cleaned up so perfect fit - and Handle overlays ready as will glue up all together (mainly all YEW , but used one bit oak and elm also)
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Lots clingfilm and inner tube
Dry and out of clamps and cut and sanded Handle sides
Shaping Handle
Couldn't be bothered with Tempory Nocks so glued on some IPE and slice of Horn just basic flat as bow might not work ?
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OK - tried this Bow on the The Tiller TREE but was only 17lbs but seemed OK , so decided to Glue another Lamination on top and one limb had tiny bit recurve and one had tiny bit reflex - probably due to the twisted Lams , so glue on a mother Lamination I made a simle Jig to make both recurve limbs approx the same .
See the Jig ( covered in Tape ) just a 2x1 and small blocks cut to the recurve shape on bandsaw and held on 2x1 with Tape)
Ready for Cooking
Out of cooking and cleaned and shaped
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Nocks
Last Lamination - looks ok bit sapwood but layer underneath is on opposite side so hopefully stress out evenly ..
All Bows from that ONE log -
The Flat/pyramid bow mostly finished , maybe some light Tillering but i like to wait a few days before tiller make sure the Smooth-On is 100% cured first
i had it lightly on tiller with the 3 laminations and shot couple arrows But with the 4th going up the Handle i will leave it a day or so longer ..
there is a lot of defects in this Log generally and these Laminations were Cut as could not get a Longbow out of the pieces - shakes , cracks , splits Knots - all in this Flat Bow , but hopefully they are buried in the laminations and strong enough now ...
that's all for now until get to Tiller the Bow and finish it up - will post when Can ..
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Wow..... what a fantastic pictorial. Many thanks to you!
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HeyHey - super cool what you did of that strange bit of log - especially the upcycling of those scraps to a laminated bow is fascinating - really curious what will the end result of that - thanks for sharing - Superduperbowbuildinghero! (-S
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What did you make the back of the lam bow with?
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HI Guys
Thanks for kind comments - been lots work but fun to do
DC - Back of the Lam bow ((this is all YEW Bow (made from offcuts of same Log at beginning) except tiny slice of oak and Elm in the handle)) - the "Back"is a Lamination of pure YEW sapwood -then the rest of the Lams are YEW Heartwood (but has slight sapwood bits down the side) but when I stacked the Heartwood Lams , i made sure didn't stack sapwood edge on top of sapwood ( reversed the sides if you know what I mean)
But basically 1 lam of YEW sapwood and 3 lams of YEW heartwood . ( i think in one photo i have one limb showing the sapwood and other heartwood IE- one is of the back and one the belly)
See Pic - this is Lam stack all Yew -
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this is amazing! never would have seen one bow in that log, let alone 3!!!!
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Masterful and resourceful.
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Simply Awesome - well done.
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based and recyclepilled trashman bow
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You do nice work. Thanks for sharing all of with us.
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Thanks Guys for comments
ok Bow 3 - laminated one , decided to put on the Tiller this Afternoon just to see where we were at -
and even though 4 laminations of Yew still only had a 25lbs draw weight seems to shoot fine BUT
due to using all the left over laminations and even as careful as i was -
the bow has a developed a crack in the Back and some shakes opened little on the belly -
Plan - i have glued there crack and the shakes - warm smooth-on while bow was drawn i pushed glue into the cracks for a few mins so hopefully some will get inside . let that dry - then Belly Maybe ok but the Back i am thinking about putting a 2nd Back on it (only 25Lbs) so happily can add some thin layer
unfortunately don't have enough yew Sapwood left so either might Buy something Hickory , Ash or maybe even some glass ?
Pics
Tiller - not great - was a large Knot in 4th lamination causing a bend , so did very gently tiller .
Tiller - getting better
Belly - Shakes coming through
Back Crack in sapwood (have 3 other layers so not as serious as think) but still needs fixing. is also only 2/3 width of 1 lamination ..
NB _ if anyone has other suggestions what can put on the Back - timber or other material to repair or stop this Crack getting worst would be appreciated
as been trying to decide best way -
Thats all for today -
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Rename the title? My sincere condolences!
Curious for further action!
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OK - Repair , I came up with a decision - a Massive splice and then cover the back with a extra Laminations - it will make the Bow thicker but i will round the top and belly slightly making more like a normal yew bow Maybe ?? it was only 27lbs so might turn out a decent weight pull after
1st thing i did was run lots Glue into the crack but now cut that out - but put glue also in the Belly shakes that should be fine for them...
Glue Belly Pic
Crack on the Back after glue dry can see crack
side view of crack
Pic of Bow New Back laminations - unfortunately didn't have any pure sapwood but these are mostly sapwood and grain running different way (like quartersawn ) so should reinforce underlayer well (i manually bent just the lamination to 180˚ and didn't snap so plenty of bend on them)
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1st Job for repair
Plane off Handle riser i glued on before
Bandsaw off Nocks (about 1mm above lamination below and finish with block plane)
Cut template of Half one limb - then i layed that on some spare offcuts sapwood cut out and cleaned edges -picture here is that half lamination layed ontop of cracked limb and use sharp knife to cut clean edge following my spice repair piece (make sense ?? )
next pic use a Router and freehand cut away most of the wood with the crack in middle - about 1/2mm above the lam below
(i didn't replace whole lamination as i didn't have enough sapwood spare - just enough do this half repair
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very sharp Chisel - cut careful away last 1/2mm of the Lamination using flat and Pearing away wood - also use chisel as a scraper is very accurate and clean
Pic of cleaned ready to glue - 1/2 limb down to lower lamination (below lamination had NO damage or cracks)
glueing on the splice (1/2 lamination limb) - I use the spring clamps hold all in place (clingfilm - pressure strip) while i wrap in Innertube
Limb wrapped in Innertube - ready for heater
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1st Pic - this is splice Glued - and cleaned up carefully using Cabinet scraper so stayed flat
i didn't take pics - but same procedure as adding Lamination before -
i took my extra Laminations i will add to the BACK , which i had already spliced together earlier - and using saw blade scratch surface for better glue join
I also Made sure splice was opposite one below so all joins DO NOT line up just a little extra strength - also made the best cleanest Lamination ontop of my splice - again make sure has best chance ..
pic of spliced Lams (the one going ontop)
Pic - of glued bow with added Laminations over whole Back - Now in hot box ..
More too come when remove tomorrow ..
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Ok - Bow out of Hotbox - took off clingfilm used a rasp to clean up edges - then i have made a extra Handle plate like before and glued that on and also regaled those nocks i cut off - but due to bandsawing the nocks off i have added a slither of BONE (white ) to make up that difference ..
1st Pic - unwrapped the Innertube - ready to clean up
cleaned and ready for handle plate
slither bone glued with 5min epoxy (shape that before glueing on old nocks)
Smooth-on glued handle plate
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Handle plate - cling wrapped then inner tube - smooth-on
that's all did today - hopefully in next couple days will have time to clean all that up - and get it back on tiller tree see where we are .
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Handle out of Innertube - Dry
Cleaned up and shaped Handle plate - rasp , file and sandpaper
Belly of Bow - 1 limb all sanded up
Bow back on tiller Tree for last time
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Decided to try a New type of arrow rest , I have done cut outs , off the hand and leather flaps - so thought i would try one those type that sits under the grip just for some light arrow support - I used a off cut of YEW again try to keep it almost pure YEW bow from same log .
Arrow rest shaped and profiled so sits perfectly on handle - will be held in with spot hot glue and the leather wrap eventually
Arrow rest
I like to Use some sanding sealer - do this with most wood work projects - just raises and seals the grain means less top coats of whatever also - quick wipe on 10mins dry and sand smooth ..
Also last minute decided to add a Arrow Plate as Yew is pretty soft and does dent and mark easily - so used thing off cut of horn (used for arrow inserts)
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Glue in Arrow Plate - 5 min epoxy as normally use PVA but wanted fast work time
Filed and sanded smooth plate
Smooth - can see follows the shape of handle - i deliberately put this in so didn't ruin the shape
Both arrow plate and rest together - how will be under handle
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1st coat of Danish Oil - will let dry for 20+hrs then sand most off and smooth with 400G or wire wool - label/name bow then continue with several more coats of oil ...
that's all today
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OK - just about finished -8-9 coats danish oil with 8hrs dry between coats then a good rub down with 000 wire wool
then Used hot glue to fix on the Arrow rest (this glue only temporary holds while wrap is done)
then used 1.4mm suede leather strip 1" wide (didn't skive the edge of the leather as thin anyway )
used Hot glue to hold leather strip - tiny blob on the leather and bow each rotation just to hold and stop slippage - sometimes use contact adhesive but thats more permanent ..
photo shows handle wrap finished - just need to smooth out tucked in bit and tidy up neatly
leather wrap
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Finished Bow
nice shooter - has lots speed and penetration power for a 42lbs bow its one of my favourite
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Nice one! That's a lot of layers!
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Finished Bow
me holding full draw - silly position i am as trying to hold for photo
so thats 3 bows all useable out of 1 dodgy UK yew log
couple things i learned myself - - when scrape the timber with saw blade don't go to the end as when you sand - you can see the scrape lines (IE my handle plate)
Yew also really good at heat treating with Dry heat - i used hot air gun
Thanks all guys for watching and COMMENTS please - if see something i can do better or you would do different i would LIKE to hear as I love learning how to improve myself and bow making
SO please critique and give info how you would do different or suggestions how to do things better ..or if you want any more specific info on any bows or how i do please ask happy to help ..
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You asked for criticism. I would have used a better back lam with less ring violations but I'm paranoid about backs. I'm very interested to see how it lasts. I've always wanted to make a multi lam Yew bow like that with all my scraps but I keep using them for stuff.
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Hi DC
Thanks for that yes Please critique away - I agree with the Back LAM - if you see the post before , I did have a Pure sapwood great Lam for the back but had a crack when Tillered - so did that long splice , and only Lam's I had left over were those ones with bits of heartwood also -
this whole Bow was made with left over rubbish wood that was NO good for the longbows - so was a sort of Pieced together thing from timber that was really destined for the Bin .. the Lams were not even cut for a laminated bow -i was considering using them for a GLASS bow as a mid layer to look nice is all ..
But 1 started with 3 lams - but ended with 5 for strength and repairs - in a perfect world i would use perfect wood - but UK yew is never straight or good and this was a 20 year old bit given to me full of crack, splits and woodworm-
i really used every inch of that Log - think i have 1 lamination left -
cheers Mark
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Hey Mark - that thread was a great show. Thanks. The laminating part was very interesting for me with good pic-documemtary and the result sure is rewarding! The only qustion I have is about the tiller on this laminated thing: Almost all of the bend is after the fades, not much midlimb/outers. Is it to challenge the lams or why is that so? First two bows were tillered completly different also. Cheers
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HI SIMK
First I am really No BOW expert - I was taught how to make UK longbows by the Late CHRIS BOYTON (one of Englands best Bowyers) but all the rest is self taught - internet and forums etc . So there are way way better experts on this site then me ..so if have a specific question make a specific post is best .
Saying that happy to help where i can -
the first 2 bows were solid YEW or even a tri-laminated longbows i taper the centre lamination towards the tips get dimensions correct then take off wood where need with a scraper mainly
Full Laminated Bows - you have to get the Tiller mostly correct first - then adjust a small amount from sides and a tiny Bit from the belly -
with this Lam YEW bow it started with 3 lams and due to the Low LBS i added a extra Lam - then due to the crack I added another one total 5 but ALL the Lams were equal perfect matching pairs as close as i could get this bad timber (so most bent evenly already before glue up -
Originally the 3 Lams - i made the central one Tapered thicker in middle and thinner to tips but added 2 more parallel lams
Q.. Not much bend mid -outer - I could have maybe tillered more BUT was worried about further cracks and shakes in the wood (remember this was BAD timber really destined for the fire) as well as the crack i had and having heartwood on the back and sapwood on the belly, Loads Knots in wrong place and Banana bent laminations, grain run offs on the laminations etc - so I just made this specific bow a Hybrid English Longbow American Flatbow type thing - pure guess work until i was happy with its shape and bend ..Just a Marks shape let the wood tell me what to do
this Bow ended Up 18-19mm thick near the fades and 14-15mm thick near the tips, 68" long (approx 40mm at fades tapered to approx 12mm at string groove - slight TRAP to the belly , Back mostly flat but heavy rounded edges .
So what i am saying is this Bow is NOT conventional - its the wrong size and shape for a label ,
if i had good laminations I would not have used these I was originally just going to make them into Veneers and Put them under a Glass bow but the more i looked at them I thought why NOT try ..
not sure that was a answer hahahah but ask again anything i will do my best ..
Mark
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Just little bit Interest
Found a YEW branch on local Common (field and woods in the local village people live around allowed to take cut timber)
and you can see the sort of nice shapes we get from English YEW - give it a year to dry and might be a light spliced handle BOW from it -
this is what i do to UK yew
Drawknife - take all Bark off
decide where cut or split (cut this as so small) - hand draw line top limb
cut in half
seal ends with End seal (a wax) or PVA glue thick coat and about 1" down sides ( done this several times before and seasons without further splits .
If no good for a BOW - make some Laminations or use for Handles or make some Xmas pressies (spoons , spatulas , bowls etc etc )(i am wood turner and cabinet maker) so no wood ever gets wasted .