Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Woodely on June 08, 2019, 03:18:38 pm
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Out of all the handles and risers I have made this is definitely the shape I'm after. :)
This is a 67" NTN maple board bow that has been on the back burner since last October, and finally got working on it about 2 weeks ago. Still have to do the final sanding and tillering about 80% done. Does this handle shape and design look like a semi forward handle shape..? This is what I was after but I ran out of Scraps to build up the back any further. I noticed compared to say a Hill style bow that has 2" of meat on the belly side, I have shaved that much off anyway, the throat geos into the belly side.
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Definitely semi forward...I used to use that years ago with "glass bows" to keep vibration and torque down...It places the center vertical axis close to the web on your bow hand, any left to right torque upon release is kept to a minimum on your arrow...
Don
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Good to know, first I heard of that I knew it something to do with vibration. Hopefully the reduction in torque will improve my shooting, I need all I can get in that department. :)
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I removed the pic of the g@#$!%ss riser to save space...Doesn't belong here
Don
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Most arrows that are properly spined are deflected to the point of no contact here...But I have seen many sloppy shooters and arrows out of spine...This is just insurance
Don
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Thx, nope no reason to totally explain it I gotcha. The Black Widows are famous for their reverse risers but we aint here to discuss $%G bows. .
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The handle looks fine but I am very concerned the back might pop off at full draw. You have the equivalent of a major ring violation right in the fade. I would be careful with it. I honestly don't think that bow is safe to shoot. I would give it plenty of full draws on the tiller tree before I shot it.
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It looks comfy, but have you strung and shot it yet? I would be worried about it popping off without glass... ?
:BB Looks like I posted at the same time as Steve... and we agree... even if you had added a power lam and backing, I've always had to make overlays shorter than the grip area.
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"You have the equivalent of a major ring violation right in the fade." Should of paid more attention to that when I built it and/or picked thru it at the lumber store. Could I beef up that area some how with some thread and glue or glue on a short overlay..?
Yes it has been strung but not shot yet, and its been pulled about 150 times on the tree, I exercise my bows plenty when I'm tillering. Its pulling about 43-45# @ 28" hitting my target weight.
Its barley taken 3/16" of set. It has about 2" of reflex in the tips and the outer limbs are working really good, So having said that I'm not overly concerned about the handle popping off, but thanks for pointing that out. I'm quite happy with the tiller so far. I have done the mirror checks and it looks really good.
"I've always had to make overlays shorter than the grip area." makes sense I'll have to pay attention to that next time.
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+ 1 what badger said!
You're asking a lot from that glue line
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I like the design, hope it shoots as good as it looks. I had a similar glue line design that released when I moved from Michigan to Arizona. I don't know if the lack of moisture in the climate had anything to do with it. Went back with G2 epoxy, no problem for years. Even took a javelina with it. John
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+ 1 what badger said!
You're asking a lot from that glue line
You are definitely talking about the back and not the belly,, correct..?
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Hope that works out for you ,i like the looks of that .i always liked a forward handle bow
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Woodley the pressure on that brown overlay right at the ends in the thousands of pounds per sq inch it start to lift in just micro inches and once it starts it goes rapidly.
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Gotcha……….
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The tips had to have an overlay on the belly because of some minor splintering when I was heat bending.