Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Ricardovanleeuwen on June 12, 2019, 02:58:57 pm
-
Hello,i am Ricardo from the Netherlands i am 24 years old and i am new to bow making. I did Read a lot on this forum but i am not sure about the log i cut today. (This Will Be my first attempt on making a bow) it is An Ash (European) (http://<a href="https://ibb.co/tCjcjCc"><img src="https://i.ibb.co/tCjcjCc/IMG-20190612-231708.jpg" alt="IMG-20190612-231708" border="0"></a>)
Not sure if the picture is view able. But the grow rings under the bark are not thick. Is that a problem? Closer to the center of the log the rings are more thick but chasing a grow ring isnt really easy for a beginner is it? I hope my question is clear. Cant wait to start but when its a good log only the waiting can begin haha.
-
Welcome to PA, Ricardo.
If the bark will slip and the ring under it is in good shape use that ring for your back.
-
Welcome aboard, Ricardo! There are a couple other guys from the Netherlands, also. Keep asking questions! And take your time!
Hawkdancer
-
Hi, +1 on what Pat said :)
Del
-
Welcome to PA Ricardo. Like Pat said. If it was harvested during growing season the bark and cambium should peal off leaving a prefect back. Don't worry about thin rings. I would try to peel bark an cambium as soon as possible. The longer it's on the tighter it'll get. Then make sure you put a couple coats of shellac or some type of sealer on back and ends of staves. It's best to let dry a little slower for a couple weeks. Then you can speed it up a little. It also helps to reduce to closer to bow dimensions.
Good Luck and like Hawkdancer said ask questions
Bjrogg
-
Hey Ricardo, leuk dat je hier wat post! Meerdere nederlanders hier dus waarom geen welkom in het nederlands ;D
So now over to english so everybody can understand it... And what others said, just use the wood directly under the bark as you back and you are good to go!
Just start on your bow and ask lots of questions here if you get stuck or doubt what you are doing.
You just missed the dutch bowyers gathering two weeks ago otherwise I could have assisted you in making your first.
-
Thanks for the warm welcome, i Will Peel the bark off after work. An other question about sealing, i already sealed the ends and wasnt sure about sealing the back. I only got Wood glue as a sealer, (Bison and Praxis home brand for the dutch people) but what would be the best way to remove it from the back when time is ready or do i Just leave it on?
-
A light scraping should be all that is needed to remove the sealer on the back.
-
You probably don't need to seal the back in the Netherland, same as in the UK... we don't get nasty wood borers like in the Us and our climate is relatively humid, which stops it drying too quick.
Del (in the UK)
-
Y’all don’t have to seal the backs? I’m lodging a protest.
-
Shellac works well for sealing bows and is easy to remove later with a wipe down with alcohol or a light sanding. Unless you plan to stain or dye your bow you can leave the shellac on the back and add your normal finish over the shellac.
-
You probably don't need to seal the back in the Netherland, same as in the UK... we don't get nasty wood borers like in the Us and our climate is relatively humid, which stops it drying too quick.
Del (in the UK)
Not drying all that much here right now either.
Bjrogg
-
OK! A bit of levity regarding genealogy! The Dutch are from Holland, which is now the Netherlands, why aren't we the Netherlandese? Or Hollandes? The Flemish are from Flanders, why aren't they Flanderese? My grandfather's family on my mother's side is from Vier Duine(?) (high dune?) Became Verdine here in the states. Any way the bow still has to have a very good tiller to make weight and shoot well! However, this week is for burning charcoal! Our club is hosting the National NMLRA Territorials, black powder shooting! One more glass of Tullamore DEW, and who caress?! Happy Fatner's Day Everyone!! Our bow club had a shoot in the only weekend Little Fiddle Woman can get away to go fishing - guess what we are doing that weekend! (lol) >:D. I like to wet sworn, too! Phooey, make that two glasses! If you can make sense of that - meet. Me at MoJam and we will partake of a beverage!
Hawkdancer
Hawkdancer
-
I am sorry but i dont know what you exactly mean or try to say or if u are replaying to annyone else. My english isnt that good.
Annyways, i splitted my log in 3 pieces because there was one nasty knot AND there was a nail grown info the log at about 10/15 inches from the Bottom. I sealed the ends of alle pieces An other time Just to be safe and the best piece i also sealed the back because i dont want to Risk that part, i Will save that for last too.
When i roughed out one of the stages.. how long it should dry at the least? The first few attempts i dont expect or want perfectly shooting bow but its more for practise and being bussy.
-
Ricardo,
Your English is way better than my Dutch! Sounds like the splitting was successful! Be sure to seal the ends and backs very good. Not sure if my humor makes sense to me sometimes! Good luck with the bows. I don't think nails are good in a bow limb, though (lol)! Hopefully, you were able to save most of that piece.
Hawkdancer
-
That's the reason i splitted the log in 3 pieces, was affraid that it would twist in the grain and leaving me with only 2 pieces. At the moment im reducing one to atleast a more easyer to handle stave so i can draw and write some measurements on it. About that, what is less likely to fail, light draw weight or more heavy? And also what disign is the safest? I Read wide in with and tin in depth but i heard about pyramid shaped limbs and this morning i also heard about the "eastern Woodland style bow" wich would have almost parallel limbs in with? Me as a newbie would say that the last one is more safe because it doesn't Risk Breaking on the tapering.
An other fun fact for myself is that, even tough i own my grandfors bruks small axe for more then 10 years.. now i still learn to use it in different ways ;D
I only have access to the internet by phone at the moment and havent found out how to post pics yet, but i make Them on the way if i found out i Will post it.
Regards Ricardo
-
Flat, wide, and long is the safest but the reuslting bow might not be a good shooter. I'd say that whatever design you choose for your first bow the chances are it won't turn out that great. It may, of course, turn out perfect but bowyering seems to be one of those skills that develop iteratively.
Maybe the best option is just to decide on a design you like either due to historical or aesthetic significance and go from there. The exceptions being recurves, sinew backed bows and hornbows. Recurves tend to have stability issues, sinew and horn bows requre skills other than tillering.
To conculde; my advice is to choose a design you like and then perfect it, every style is different and all can be tricky when making them for the first time. More experienced guys may have more helpful and informed advice.
-
The longer the better...up to a point (no pun intended). If you think 1 3/4” wide is enough, go 2 inches. Work slowly. Slower than that... as for design, let the stave determine that in large part. Solicit advice on the forum first, and then slowly make shavings. Some will suck less than others. Do more of that on the next one.