Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Muzzleloaders => Topic started by: Parnell on September 28, 2019, 01:10:37 pm
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Starting to clean up the barrel
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Further down the rabbit hole, eh?
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Ha! Yeah, it continues, JW. Did you get snow this weekend?
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Ha! Yeah, it continues, JW. Did you get snow this weekend?
Not here, but at higher elevations there was a bit. Nothing that stuck around.
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Thought I’d post up on this project. Breech plug, barrel, lock, and underlugs are all looking good in their placement. I’ll likely drill my pins this afternoon after I measure and check it all again.
I’ve been reworking my large powderhorn and am making a smaller horn, as well. Also, I had sewn a basic bag. Have to think about making another for this one.
I picked up a curved chisel for some inletting work...man, does that help. Is properly called a gauge, instead? Anyhow, onward.
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Nice work, Steve. Looking forward to the finished projects and your first shot. :OK :-M
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Yep, that's a gouge. I bought a set of Flex Tool gouges when I started making guns, later I saw the advice on the gun building boards to only buy what you need instead of a set and the best quality you can afford. My set is a good one but I don't use two thirds of them, same with my chisels, I bought a set and only use the 1/8" and the 1/4", once in awhile I will use the 3/8" one
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Looking good, Steve. keep the pictures coming. And, it's still hunting season till Feb. 15 up here, then small game season. Be fun with the smooth bores.
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It would be, hmm, I’ll call.
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Would like to talk the trigger installation up. So am I correct in understanding that this is a Sett Trigger, Double Lever? I’m reading about proper installation in ‘The Art of Building The Pennsylvania Longrifle’. Going to bevel the edges of the trigger plate and round them accordingly.
My concern is better understanding placement with respect to the two levers and the sear. Also, this small adjustment screw which controls the rear sett trigger travel.’
My current understanding is 5/8” between pivot pin and sear.
Thoughts? Tips?
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Good work so far! Can't wait to see the finished product! I'll be watching this one!
Patrick
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I have put in three DSTs, both had the sear bars contact the sear directly above the adjustment screw. My kibler kit was the last one and Jim had his trigger inlet shaped to have the trigger bars intersect the sear exactly like I have done it in the past.
I just found this, it shows exactly the position I install set triggers.
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/pdfs/catalog/page_352.pdf
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Ah, super! Many thanks, Eric. Keep you posted. Thanks for the interest, guys.
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Well, the trigger is coming together. I've had to carefully file a significant amount from the set trigger to clear the sear and initiate the lock. I didn't expect that much to have to come off! But, it is beginning to catch and should come together well. I read that TOW instruction about 20 times, so far. It is making sense to me as I move through it. It's amazing how I didn't understand the trigger in the beginning, at all! I'll take some pictures later to update. I'm glad I'm doing this though, makes me really appreciate the fine tuning of a lock and trigger.
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I’ve picked this project back up after finishing a couple bows for the nephews and taking care of some other things.
I’ve got the main bolt done and “buttoned up” the lock. So far, so good.
On to the butt plate. I’ve been considering trigger pull distance. 14-14.5” feels correct on a yard stick...so pretty standard, I suppose. Any thoughts on this? I imagine it is an individual choice.
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I want one of these soooo much. I just don't have the time to invest in learning a new skill. I guess I have to just watch you masters of the trade for now.
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Master! Haha! I’m a newbie, Sleek. But, thanks. I hope you can get it in time.
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Good job on the lock bolt!
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Thanks, Mike.
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I’ve made more progress after having done some house renovations. Butt plate looks good...one small spot I’ll shim. Heel plate is in and I’m happy. I have a little more inletting to do on the lock plate, I think. Currently it is sitting a little proud over the stock. Thinking to bring it near flush.
Opinions?
I should drill the ramrod thimbles and tailpipe this weekend.
Making progress again.
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Looking good, Steve. I've never built one but it still looks good. ;D
Hope you and Angie are doing well. :OK
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Hi Pat! Yeah, we are hanging in there and keeping well. Glad to see your ALB thread going. I hope the same for you all, also.
JW-If you see this, yeah, still at it! Saw your post on the other thread. You been working on any projects?
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Hi Pat! Yeah, we are hanging in there and keeping well. Glad to see your ALB thread going. I hope the same for you all, also.
JW-If you see this, yeah, still at it! Saw your post on the other thread. You been working on any projects?
On and off playing with making powderhorns and shooting bags. Nothing major.
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I finally got the toe plate on my Haines rifle, something slipped and I got some major inletting gaps, I shimmed the biggest one, tried to shim a smaller one and the toe plate wouldn't fit in the inlet.
I hate gaps so I tried a new gap filler, my old dent removing steam iron. I put a piece of wet tee shirt over the toe plate and gave the wood and plate good steaming, now it looks like the toe plate grew into the wood, no gaps.
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Sounds like a good save Eric :-M ! Bob
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Wow, very interesting, Eric. I’ll try it.
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Eric, used your trick with the butt cap and it helped a bit.
On tothe nose cap. First time doing this, so any tips appreciated.
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So, sitting flush and parallel to the stock, is the plan.
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You are supposed to have 1/8" of the barrel sticking out past the nose cap. If you trim the wood back just enough to put the nose cap on the barrel backwards you can draw on the stock around the outside of the brass to give you a starting point for wood removal.
I lost this nose cap on my workbench and forgot to neutralize the browning solution, it got a little too brown.
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Here are some pictures of where I am in the project. Slower with the heat but still moving along.
Question…I am having trouble adjusting the double set trigger to work properly. When I cock the lock it alternates with releases…one the set trigger releases the lock…cock again then the hair trigger releases the lock. When I remove the trigger completely it seems to work properly. That is, it catches with the set and releases on the hair…but that is not under the tension of the lock.
How to go about adjusting?
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Could be several things but I am not a good source of info.
You should post your question over at the ALR or ML Forum site, those guys will know the answer right off.
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Ok, thanks Eric. Will do.
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Have you blacked your sear and seen if it makes any contact with the hole in your lock mortise to accommodate it? I ran into this one time, I though I had everything fitted just right but my lock wouldn't trip, a little black oil lamp soot on the sear showed a surprising amount of wood contact that I needed to remove. Another time I found I didn't drill my sear hole deep enough and my sear was bottoming out in the hole.
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Yes, I had, Eric. It did turn out to be the trigger levers just needing more filing. I took it slow and kept checking it and it finally fit properly with being set while also minimizing creep. It seems real solid now so I am pleased. Time to pin the trigger guard and then on to the patch box, which is another new thing for me so I am excited to progress in that.
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I should know better at this point than to look at this kind of post, now I'm subscribed, and likely to end up doing this myself at some point. Looks great so far!
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Good deal, I filed on a trigger bar or two and later found out I went too far on one and had to add metal back to it. I have done this twice for various reasons but it worked out just fine, I hardened and polished the added metal before I soldered it on the trigger bar the brought it to a mirror finish after I soldered it.
This is a TC trigger I added to;
(https://i.imgur.com/MTjfPbo.jpg)
This is my latest Haines build with the wonky precarve stock. The web under the breech is 3/8", with the trigger installed as high as I could get it and still stay out of the ramrod hole, the trigger bar didn't come close to tripping the sear. I had to add this much metal just to make the trigger work.
(https://i.imgur.com/Teeq343.jpg)
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I should know better at this point than to look at this kind of post, now I'm subscribed, and likely to end up doing this myself at some point. Looks great so far!
I hope you do Boxer, I am spectacularly slow but I approach all this as learning, one step at a time, no deadline, etc. It is a pursuit for enjoyment and to relax.
Thanks for showing me the pictures, Eric. I like that…work the problem and find a solution.