Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: burtonridr on September 29, 2019, 09:17:35 pm
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Cut these shoots about a year ago, let them season, straightened, carved out the knocks, fletched with wild turkey and goose wing feathers. They range in spine from 37#-47#.
Big thanks to JEB for helping me out with some turkey feathers :OK
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And the finished arrows....
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I appreciate shoot shafts. Ramin shafts are nice, and others, like chundoo and ash. However, going from raw vegetation to arrow, that is bliss. Nice. Any idea on weight?
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I appreciate shoot shafts. Ramin shafts are nice, and others, like chundoo and ash. However, going from raw vegetation to arrow, that is bliss. Nice. Any idea on weight?
It is bliss, I mean to take an average ugly stick and make it into a good lookin arrow shaft is pretty awesome :)
I will weigh a few tonight and post up the weights. :OK
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Nice work! What are you using for the blunt points? It is neat to go the whole way from raw to range!
Hawkdancer
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They are 357 magnum casings with a hole drilled through and weed wacker line glued in place.
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very nice. people underestimate how much work that is. I saw some shoot shaft arrows online for $180/dozen. Yup, I thought, worth at least that much.
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Nice work, and strong arrows.
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Stick Mark: They weigh about 650 grains with a 125gr target point.
Jeffp51: You bet its a lot of work, but after building pine shafts that seemed to take about as much work and watching them explode everytime I miss the target, lol... Totally worth the time ;D
Thanks Woodely :OK
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Those are nice
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Great looking arrows! I've been thinking about making some from chokecherry. Question: Is there any way to influence/change the spine of a shoot arrow, or is it just what it is? I've read that grooving can actually increase the spine, and of course I assume thinning the shaft would lower it. True?
I ask because I hate the thought of making a bunch of arrows from scratch, then finding that they're the wrong spine to shoot from my bow. Thanks!
Thomas
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Whistling Badger: I totally understand what you mean. From my experience I have to get almost every potential shaft at least dried, bark shaved off and spined to determine if it is worth trying to use or not. To get a shaft to that point doesnt really take up that much time, I do the stages in batches. Some shafts just come in weaker than you think they should. Experience with a certain shoot helps a lot, but there are some things you can do to better your chances for success.
1. Cut way more shoots than you want to make arrows with while you are out collecting.
2. Cut them extra long, I cut mine about 36" long for dogwood. I've noticed that cutting my shoots on one side or the other of a branch joint can make a big difference. I leave them long until dry and the bark is shaved off, then I spine them and move it from short end to bigger end until i find the sweet spot I'm looking for. Then use that information to decide where to make my final cuts to get the length I want. (hope that makes sense)
3. Cut them a little bigger in diameter than you think you will need, in part to account for shrinkage and thickness taken off by removing the bark(if you know what finished diameter is about right for a certain type of shoot), but also because you can always sand them down a little to reduce the spine. You can stick the dried shoot in a drill chuck and spin it while running sand paper up and down the shaft to bring down the spine weight.
After collecting and making shafts a few times you will learn what to look for, cant replace experience :OK
Thanks Trapper Rob :OK
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Nice set of arrows.
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Thanks--makes sense. I'm really going to have to try that one of these years...I'm almost getting to be a good enough shot that it might be worth while. T
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Thanks--makes sense. I'm really going to have to try that one of these years...I'm almost getting to be a good enough shot that it might be worth while. T
I highly recommend it, very rewarding, and really not very difficult.
Helmet, thanks :OK