Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Gregoryv on January 13, 2020, 05:56:34 pm
-
First time chasing a ring on a Osage stave. Once I expose a ring and attempt to expose it by using drawknife in “crunchy” layer I get tear out. It tears into the ring I am trying to expose. This stave is not wet but not seasoned either. Please help
-
I've had that happen to me before when I was trying to chase too many rings at one time.
-
turn the stave around. I had that problem too. don't try to cut into the ring but try to cut off the ring if that makes sense.
-
Once you expose the crunchy stuff, turn the blade completely perpendicular to the back, and scrape the rest off. Going at it with a sharper angle is unnecessary and will surely result in tear outs.
-
Are you holding the drawknife bevel up or bevel down?
I agree, once you get to the early wood use a scraper to remove it and get the back ring clean.
-
I use the drawknife as a scraper to remove much of the ring above the one I’m chasing. I shave it off until I hit the early wood and then I shave that off. That will get you a clean back without much chance for error.
-
Chase the ring above the one you want initially. Once you have that ring exposed full length then go to much finer tools (fine rasp/files/curved knife blades around knots etc)than a drawknife to expose first the earlywood ring full length, then use scraper/sandpaper to very carefully go through it and expose the actual ring you want for the back.
Your back ring should be completely untouched.
-
Don't go through the crunchy early wood all the way, expose it and use a scraper to take it off. It sounds like you are being too aggressive with your drawknife. Pull your blade sideways in a slicing motion like you are trying to slice the top off a tomato, blade bevel down of course. Few of us chase a grain with the bevel up. As was mentioned if you have splintering you need to cut from the other direction.
I have spent up to 8 hours chasing a ring on a problematical tight ring stave with pins, go slow.
-
I assume you are prying the drawknife when you get under early wood..spongy stuff... don't do that.. dull drawknife angled properly will take off early wood ... angle a light above stave to help see it...too... gut
-
Work from the tip to the center, working 6" at a time. When you get to the middle start from the other end. Circle all knots and pins and other irregularities and stay away from them until the back is clean then gingerly work the ring down working from the center out all around the knot or pin. Work only one ring at a time and if you go through that ring mark that well and stay away from that area until you get the rest of that ring cleared....and don't forget patience. It is your most important tool.
-
Some great advice given here.
-
Not that I'm a pro but I find that with a sharp drawknife readout are more likely. I prefer a bit duller blade.
-
Tearouts not readouts
-
Many people claim that and it’s not so for me. Razor sharp is my preference. When it begins to loose its edge I stop and hone the edge. I use the burr on mine as much as anything by spinning it around backwards and dragging it (bevel away from me). Needs to be sharp to work.
-
as a beginner, heres my advise. make it sharp. dull is for tearing, sharp is for cutting. you dont want to tear. thats how i stopped my problem.
-
Osage doesn't usually tear if seasoned,,..
-
My experience with osage is some cuts a smooth a butter and some is splintery even when well seasoned. When you split osage, some splits cleanly and some has endless stringers that have to chopped lose to separate the staves. When chasing a grain on the splintery stuff you have to go slow and change directions at the first hint of splintering.
I find the same on maple gunstocks for my flintlocks, my current build really curly and the most splintery wood I have ever worked, almost impossible to cut cleanly.