Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: maitus on January 21, 2020, 02:27:16 am
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Hi! Never used tung oil. Is pure tung oil good for useing or it must be true oil?
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Bows were made before tru-oil was invented.
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Bows were made before tru-oil was invented.
Obviously they were, probably even before the tung oil was made :D....but which is better ? More waterproof?
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Tru Oil is better.
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both work well. I do all my bows with tung oil, but I don't know if it is actual "pure" tung oil. It's the stuff I get from the hardware store, and I think there are drying agents in it.
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I believe tru oil is a linseed base and linseed is less resistant to moisture than tung oil
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Don't know about bows, but I use tung oil to seal my arrows, and it's very weather resistant. I've found arrows that have been lost for months, and were still in good shape.
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Well applied tung oil is one of the most water resistant finishes out there. When I have the time there is no other finish for me. Especially on a wooden bow, it glows after 6 coats and has a lovely 'texture'. It is also easy to reapply after a year or so.
I'm not at all sold on Tru oil, it isn't very scratch resistant and I've found it to not be very water resistant. Bear in mind we have almost constant 70% and up r.h. constantly.
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Tru Oil was used on gun stocks that probably got abused way more than a bow and it lasts decades and generations when done right. That has to hold some water, no pun intended.
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I've used Tru-Oil on my bows for many years with good results. Before that I used it on my waterfowl guns for salt and fresh water duck hunting. I haven't used tung oil on bows. It penetrates into the wood helping to bring out the grain and probably repels water pretty good but water isn't the problem. wood absorbs atmospheric water vapor. No good finish will prevent that. What you want is to slow down the hygroscopic rate, this uptake of water vapor into the wood. I've hunted in downpours with a hickory bow with a Tru-Oil finish with no adverse results during the hunt. The rain water ran right off. If I did this for a week or a month without protecting the bow between hunts It would probably show the affects.
Jay Massey hunted Alaska with sinew backed bows, osage and hickory and used French Polish, linseed oil and shellac put on in layers as a finish and not a very good moisture sealer. One year he capsized his boat dumping all of his equipment in the river. He found his sinew backed osage bow a few days later along the edge of the river and hunted with it the rest of the trip. Not long after that he started using what we now call Massey Finish, epoxy thinned with acetone(or other similar solvents) which probably gives better protection but doesn't stop the hygroscopic rate, it only slows it down better.There are lots of good bow finishes out there. Find what works well for you and use it.
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Thank You for all answers!
I will use Tru-Oil because i got it first but on the next bow i would like to try tung oil.
bownarra, for how long You let dry every coat? Du You sand or steel wool before applying the next coat?
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I've used pure tung oil that is certified for use on cutting boards, wooden utensils and so on. It contains no driers. It works great and after a 5 or more coats with light sanding in between you can get a really nice, shiny finish.
I liberally apply one coat, leave it on the bow for one hour (during summer, indoors, with around 70% relative humidity) then wipe it down with a soft cotton rag while making sure there are no streaks or cloth fibres left on the bow. I then let it dry for one day. The next day I lightly sand it with 2000 grit sandpaper, wipe off any dust and apply another coat, repeating the process.
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400 grit is about the finest you need to go for finishing and sanding between coats even 320 will work just fine.
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Thank You for advises!
Do You polish the final coat?
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I like to make a slurry of vegetable oil and fine pumice powder. I rub that in and then wipe it off completely. It changes the finish from glossy to an nice satin finish that I really like. If you prefer the glossy look, then don't sand the final coat at all.
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I agree Jeff, never sand the final coat, good suggestion with that pumice and veg oil.
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400 grit is about the finest you need to go for finishing and sanding between coats even 320 will work just fine.
I'll try using those grits, thanks for pointing this out.
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The tung oil i used doesn't dry. I aplied it 3 days ago and wiped it down after one hour. What could go wrong?
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Lack of patience. They polymerize over time. Was it raw oil?
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Don't know. There is written "pure tung oil". No idea is it raw boiled or what ever :( ......4. day and it doesn't dry regardless i rub this bow every day with clean rag. I should get true oil. No wish to try tung oil anymore. The question is how will the true oil act after the tung oil?
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Chances are it's just raw tung oil. That can take weeks.
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OMG :D....! But there stays that next coat must be applied on the next day.
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Sure. Many say you can still apply a thin wiped on and off coat each day but it takes time to fully cure the whole thing.
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the temperature and humidity matter too. Right now I am finishing a bow with tung oil in a cold-ish garage, and it is taking noticeably longer than during the summer. I have been bringing the piece in at nights to warm it up.
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Mine is hanging in my livingroom.