Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Gregoryv on February 17, 2020, 07:17:35 pm
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I just purchased a Ferreira rasp from tractor supply store. I must have wasted some of my money. Because the fine side cuts but the other side just skates over the wood. I am new to this and am wracking my head. Did I buy a full second rate rasp? Can you guys recommend a good rasp that is affordable and can hog off some wood? Thank you very much.
Greg
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I love Heller. They're good. I paid about forty bucks for my new 14 inch with a handle and I will buy one just like maybe smaller next time, every time
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Ferriers. Autocorrect!
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The American made ones seem to cut better
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a shinto rasp, they looks goofy but i was amazed at how well they work.
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I bought my farriers rasp from a small town farm supply store deep in Kentucky. They had tree different really nice sharp rasps. Heck the one I got was a nice save edge NRS 14” rasp and it was cheaper from the mom and pop store than from AMAZON. I can’t believe I have been making bows without it. I love it now.
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Its my main tool
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+1 Heller Black Master rasp its a buy once buy right type rasp !
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Really like my Shinto.
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Really like my Shinto.
While i was making my bow at the marshalls someone told my you only need three things to make a bow, Shinto rasp, farriers rasp, and some card scrapers.
it would be hard without my other tools but yeah thats my main three other than a drawknife.
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A good farrier'rasp, and/or a Shinto for the file work. Even a used farrier is still sharp, most of the pros in that field replace their files at least once or twice a year, sharp files keep the horses happy! When it gets too dull for bow making, you can heat it and beat it into a good hatchet or knife, maybe two knives! :BB (f) (lol). You just missed a sale on Shinto saw rasp at Woodcraft, like 35-40% off.
Hawkdancer
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I really like my ferriers rasp. I can really hog off some material if I put my weight into it. Or with the finer side I can drop limb weights. Purple pounds at a time while keeping a nice smoothly transitioning belly. About all I really use is my ferrier rasp, scraper made from a bandsaw blade, and drawknife.
Kyle
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I have the shinto too its a great rasp sense I picked up the Hiller I find my self using the Hiller more its easier for me for more precise control when geting closer to tiller I just flip it over the other side is closer to a cabinet makers rasp really just a preference what you like or used to !
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I ordered a Shinto. Should I get a ferriers rasp too or will the Shinto take off as much wood?
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I could never pick up another rasp and never miss it. I use a rasp around the fades and handle and that’s it. The different ways this stuff is done is really interesting when you think about it.
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Slimbob what do you use? Draw knife? Band saw? I al looking for a tool that will really take off material so I can ovoid tear out. Will the Shinto work for initial shaping or should I get a rasp too? I think the reason I get tear out is a: hop horn beam and b: I am new. Thanks for any responses.
Greg
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I have a "Save Edge" farriers rasp that has been a very good rasp. I've had it for at least five years and it still cuts like new. I use it for roughing out after the bandsaw. I also have two Shinto rasps. They are very good for lighter work then the coarse side of the farriers. I don't use the fine side of the farriers much. Don't know why. The reason I have two Shintos is that they seem to have a useful lifetime. Because they are just hacksaw blades that are riveted together they loosen up and start to bend sideways. Maybe it's the way I use it. When I ordered the Shinto from Lee Valley it came with a weird handle that I just couldn't use. The thing kept tipping over and digging in because the handle put the point of effort about two inches above the work. I sent it back and just got the regular file handle kind.
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Band saw if needed, but not often any more. Belt sander for most of the shaping. Then a drawknife the rest of the way along with a sanding block. A rasp is used as I said only around the handle. Some around the tips. Maybe I’m doing it wrong but a rasp is the tool I touch the least.
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This is what is going on with this tractor supply rasp. The fine side cuts but the course side skirts along wood. Am I doing something wrong or is this a cheap dull rasp?
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I'd like to know that as well as it's the only rasp in my price range.
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The rasp I use is a Brazilian made one you pick up from Oracheln.l, so I’d guess it’s a similar one. I put some weight into the coarse side of mine to get it to cut, but when it does it’s more like little chunks of wood as opposed to normal rasping dust. Try a bit more pressure and swipe it across the grain at a 45* angle. I feel like I can go at it more controlled and get more pressure if I draw the rasp towards me to cut.
Kyle
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Is this typical of the course side of a rasp or if I fork out some more dough can I get something that works better?
Greg
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Try a Diamond brand farriers rasp. Mine is less than a year old and beats the pants off my Nicholson. I got it at Mills Fleet Farm