Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Yellowstave on March 25, 2020, 07:54:49 am
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I have a 60 inch piece of osage that is 1.5 wide at the fades with a taper that goes to 1/4 INCH AT THE TIP. I have a 4 inch handle and 2 inch fades. The back of this piece is pristene. My question is this. With these dimensions is it safe to aim for a 28 inch draw?
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you could cut fades to 1-1/2 would give another 1/2 working limb on each limb... I have a 54" air backed osage drawing 26.5 no issues.. 55lb @ 26.5..gut
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It probably wouldn't break BUT your string angle will be extreme. This means the bow will stack fairly hard leading to poor energy storage. My guess at that length is it would be ok to 26 ish.
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What if I flipped the tips?
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So it's a pyramid taper? I wouldn't flip the tips of a pyramid, especially if your taper is already complete.
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Osage is mean and doesn't break easily, but that doesn't mean you have a good bow in your hands. I would make a bulbous handle and make the limbs work right into the handle. That will help, but you are still several inches short of a healthy bow.
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Its not exactly a pyramid. It goes from 1.5 at the handle to 3/4 inch about 7 inches from the tip. It tapers from there to tip. The outers are still static now. I have it almost to brace height.
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This is it . that stingray pelt is just drooped over for now. I laminated deer antler and buffalo horn for overlays. It turning out to be one of my best I'm just thinking 28 may overstress her.
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Good work...Looks great.Nice touch with the sting ray.
I was just going to say I've got a 60" here slightly bendy handle sapling built 9 or 10 years ago that handled a 28" draw.It pulls 65#'s yet.It's not as clean as yours.It's got 14 knots showing on the belly.A bit too much draw for comfort for me any more.I'm thinking about retillering it down to the low low 50's or high 40's.It's only 1 and 5/16" wide.
As a coincidence mine has antler with black horn overlays too....Ha Ha.But with a beaver tail wrap on handle.
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Beautiful bow! Have you considered adding a rawhide backing? While it would be a shame to cover the bows pristine back, the rawhide might allow it to bend those last few inches without issues. I haven't worked with rawhide that much myself so maybe some more knowledgeable folks will chip in.
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I have considered rawhide and have enough to do it. I think if I back it at all though it will be sinew. I really hate to cover that back . But I may have to.
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The bow looks finished. Are you asking if it can be drawn further than it was designed for? I agree with Pearly. Is it doable? Yes, but it won't be as efficient with the worsening string angle at that draw length. Here's an example of a bow I built years ago that was designed for a 28" draw length and 58" ntn. Stacked quite a bit at the end of the draw in spite of it holding a good amount of reflex.
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It not finished yet. Its just barely to brace height now.. It was kind of an unplanned length. I have a 27 inch draw but my guy in the trade has a 28. This was the stave I picked up after I broke a previous attempt. I really just failed to take in to consideration the length until I got to this point. In my defense I have 3 others blanked out so I may have just been in go mode 😆..
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I would recommend against putting on a handle wrap and tip overlays till the bow is tillered out. No reason to waste time on the finish work if it's not even shooting.
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The handle is not on yet it's just laying on there for the pic. Thanks for the advise.
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If it were me, I would 1. do a bulbous handle and make the fades work as Pearl said 2. aim for 27" 3. keep it for myself and use a longer stave for the trade!
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So if I were to sinew would 2 dry oz. Shredded be enough?
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Look a few pages back at Gordons, "Black powder group raffle bow". Its a perfect example of a semi rigid bulbous grip. It effectively allows for a 3-4" shorter bow for a given draw length. Gordon is the man.
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Look a few pages back at Gordons, "Black powder group raffle bow". Its a perfect example of a semi rigid bulbous grip. It effectively allows for a 3-4" shorter bow for a given draw length. Gordon is the man.
Exactly. Lol you beat me to it lol. I’m a sucker for a slightly bendy handle/bulb grip.
These days I make my arrow passes as narrow as possible(usually1/2”) to make spinning arrows/tuning and arrow flight easier.
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Sweet. Thanks guys. I'm peeling the back off of a longer one right now. With a better plan.lol
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You do what your comfortable with.A person gets to know the wood in the bow your tillering.I've never been one to be afraid of breaking a bow though and will usually but not always push the limits.
For a trade bow to be sent I usually shoot it close to 500 times anyway.
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I just dont want to make a bow that only has that much stress on it for some poor soul to pluck an eye out with. I went ahead and chased a ring on a 65 inch stave just to feel more comfortable with the reliability of my trade bow. I want it to shoot a million shots before it breaks.lol
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Yes they should last a lifetime I agree or most anyways until a person gets bored and makes a different design or uses different wood.Usually after a while a guy gets quite a few bows hanging around.
If the design/tiller/and draw weight are in sync it will.Your being good and self responsible and that's a good thing.
Picture shown by Ryan is not a slightly bendy handle bow.
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Derrick, if it were me. I'd strongly consider putting some sharp hooks on the ends, sinew backing it and keeping it! That bow would definitely make me sad to give away.
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what Pearl said,,is good advice