Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Canuck Bob on March 25, 2020, 09:25:30 am
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Sorry for this never ending question? However research here and elsewhere has me confused still.
I'm prepping for a backed board bow, probably a backed pyramid design, 72" TTT, 30-35#.
Research often states to pick the major limb straight grained, obviously, on all 4 sides. I call this rift sawn with 45 degree grain orientation. Others advocate quarter sawn with grain lines oriented back to belly or sometimes across the width of the major limb (this appears to mimic a stave carved self bow).
The backing strip is often recommended as quarter sawn with the grain lines running back to belly. I am planning oak or maple for the major limb and hickory for the backing if available locally.
My plan is to use quality wood recut quarter sawn unless this is a mistake.
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For the most part the grain of the belly wood doesn’t matter as long as it is straight with no swirls or serious twists. I like to use a regular sawn belly paired with a bamboo/quarter sawn or rift sawn wood backing. The grain on the backing is what is important when building backed bows.
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as sniper said, the back matters most and vertical or bias is preferred over flat because if you use a flat sawn backing, especiall of a ring porous wood like red oak, there is always some runout that exposes the weaker early growth to the back surface where the tension is greatest and the rings can separate (lift a splinter). diffuse porus like hickory maple or birch is not so bad
in the case of a pyramid bow where there is no taper in thickness, keeping a flat taper when you tiller/scrape is a pita if you are working in and out of the soft early growth.
As I recall, mr stanley's designs do not call for much tillering on the bottom so sanding with a board backer or some kind of planing will work out better should you choose a flatsawn belly of red oak
BTW, I have not seen Mr Stanley around lately, can you say where you saw him presenting his work?
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I found his plans and this forum from a search. I didn't bookmark the thread but it came from this forum.
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Look for straight lines along the edge and the board's face will reflect that. Check my site for a nearly perfect board. Jawge
http://traditionalarchery101.com/boards.html