Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Rākau on March 30, 2020, 06:24:04 pm
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So, everything I read about elder is that it is fantastic, so much so that it has earned the title of 'poor man's yew'. From what I have read it seems to be very elastic in compression and very strong in tension and quite light weight and likes quite a deep cross section.
I have two staves that I recently harvested and both have waaay more reflex than I anticipated, see photo.
I have two questions for those with elder experience:
1) what are some designs that have worked well for you?
2)how would you go about dealing with this stave?
I read a post from Leonwood suggesting that you could deflex the handle area and make an R/D. I am interested by this idea, but would like to hear other suggestions also.
Cheers,
Zach
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49718572322_b0c36fa3b1.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2iKsFob)20200331_122256 (https://flic.kr/p/2iKsFob) by Zachary Press (https://www.flickr.com/photos/157468780@N02/), on Flickr
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Ye it is excellent wood. The bows I've made from it have surprised me :)
Heat treating transforms. As for bow desing it has done all I've asked and more in a few different designs. Just make sure the belly is flat.
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some suggestions:
http://primitive-bows.com/tag/elder/
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thanks bownarra, I will heat treat for sure, how wide/long would you recomend for a 50lb at 27 bow?
thanks Simon, your bows have been an inspiration from the start, are there any recomendations you have in terms of width/length for a 50lb at 27" bow?
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Zach, this wood indeed is similar to yew: lightweight and springy. but: you can easily overstress it, compression and tensionwise. don't overdo it. i have snapped some over the back and when i tried a little elb profile last year got some compression fractures. tough it can make great bow. cheers
edit: the compression fractures obviously occurred due to a tiny tillering mistake: so just be careful.the back is mainly critical @ nodes.... if you have some on your stave...
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Do you guys have experience with heat bending on this wood?
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Thanks for the analysis simk, luckily I have two node free staves, I will just go for a standard flat bow design then, keep them as wide as possible, 2" in this case, for half of the limb length, then straight taper to tips. I will try to heat some of the absurd reflex out too, maybe deflex the handle area or something.
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On a node free stave I would start with about 65" and a more stacked design with about 1.25 -1.5" width and very slightly bendy handle.
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On a node free stave I would start with about 65" and a more stacked design with about 1.25 -1.5" width and very slightly bendy handle.
Sounds good to me and if doing a stiff handle I'd cut the stave at 68.
I would be tempted to heat treat it and flatten the whole stave out at the same time. Maybe leave 1" reflex.
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Sorry Simon, just to clarify, when you say a "Stacked design" does this mean narrower and thicker as opposed to wider and thinner?
I have already deflexed one stave at the handle for an rd design. I will go for a standard longbow with the other.
Ok Bownarra, will keep one at 68"
thanks for your advice guys
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Yep, that's what I meant. Something like my No. 5: http://primitive-bows.com/elderberry-longbow-5528-no-5/
You inspirated me to do another elder, grapped one out of my blancs and now at tiller stadium, mine is about 66 ntn, aiming for about 50.
Btw., I never heard elder is poor man's yew - always thought that about buckthorn (which is colorwise similar).
Good luck on your projects!
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haha wow you got that done fast!!! It is another stunner too, those pin knot clusters look gnarly, at least I have a few great examples to aim for once my staves season.
oh interesting, I saw it written by someone on here. maybe it is just something that is said about any above average bow wood?