Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Ricardovanleeuwen on May 16, 2020, 02:31:29 pm
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It isnt at full draw yet but i want to hear opinions on the bend so far
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R limb looks good. L limb has too much bend in the inner third, almost hinging. Your handle and fades section looks quite thick. Could probably get it working into the fades a bit during the last few inches of tillering.
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For some reason i notoced the hinge too when i checked the picture a few hours later. But to fix It u have to scrape from the left AND right side of the hinge? Or Just the right side (at the fade)?
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The picture is made with a low brace string (2 inch brace height) by the way
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Low brace and normal brace should give the same tiller.
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For some reason i notoced the hinge too when i checked the picture a few hours later. But to fix It u have to scrape from the left AND right side of the hinge? Or Just the right side (at the fade)?
Yes . Put a x on the hinge and don’t remove any more wood from that area until the bend evens out. I agree out of fades is stiff also outer third.
Right limb looks pretty good. It will probably be stiffer than left but if you can keep taking weight off it a maintain that bend till both limbs are even.
Bjrogg
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Some more info about this bow: i harvested this branch a bit earlyer As the elm bow that i posted on here (my second bow and first posted bow) but i started working this one as i wanted the elm stave to dry a bit. As the elm was dry i put this in my Wood Corner to maybe finish It, almost put on the firewood pile. Since i traded my elm bow with my Friends i started An other elm stave wich i Will recurve but i dont want to break that one so i quickly started tillering this one again, a bit at home and a bit while walking with my dog. Im going to try to finish this one cluickly cuz i wanna shoot haha. Its 56 inch nock to nock and the Bark is still partly on. At this moment i understand the fear of An explosion when i pull It and i hear the Bark cracking >:D the Bottom limb is quite straight with some knots in It and the top limb has a Nice wiggle in It. The string alignement is a bit off because i started wrong but im going to fix that with the heath gun.
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As a fellow beginner, I can really recommend using calipers and your fingers to feels the thickness taper! That has been the most critical thing I’ve learned. There should be EVEN reduction of thickness from the fade out, with NO places where it has constant or increasing thickness or where it becomes too thin too fast, compared to the rest of the limb.
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I dont think that counts for staves with pin knots on the belly sides since those spots are better in compression
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Just work the left limb mid limb on and don't draw it very far to work in the wood removal.
Good one, Ryan. Near handle wood needs attention too. I usually work one problem area at a time.
Jawge
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Recheck please, i think right limb needs more bend in the middle and after that a bit more bending in the handle?
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Oh and the left Outer third
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Did you hit your draw length? Jawge
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I dont think that counts for staves with pin knots on the belly sides since those spots are better in compression
Wrong.
A good thickness and width taper are absolutely essential on all bows.
Pin knots are WORSE in compression than a clean piece of wood.
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Did you hit your draw length? Jawge
not yet but getting close, also have to make it a bit shorter because i did cut the string groove throug the back as i didn't know that that's the wrong way when i started this bow
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Well, then, I would get the near handle wood bending a bit more. Jawge
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The string of my bow is quite off center, i know i can fix that by streaming the handle but It lifted a question.
What is the real purpose of string alignement? Is It that the bow wont rotate in your hand or has It to do with Arrow flight? If its the first answer, isnt a loose grip the solution? Or makes that the tiller way off?
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I got the limbs tillered pretty even in my eyes, i did cut the noob misstake nocks off making the tip overlays fit. When they attached i only need to let the handle bend a bit more to reach full draw. Im getting better at the perfect fit for overlays but It got me Thinking. Would a piece of leather act as a gap filler? Even if It isnt neccecary It would look Nice for contrast.
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An addition to my last question, would a leather strip also help if u made the flat surface on the back too large, wich is the case for me now?
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Bump
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If the admin Will evver Read this je can delete this topic
It ended in 3 pieces now