Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Fox on July 26, 2020, 05:23:14 pm
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So i finnaly got an osage stave from a freind it had its bark on and had been seasoning as a log since February. I took the bark of and the back is a mess with deep checks... not enough wood to carve past them... Help?
-Fox
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50156962676_eb91923e98_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jqcxyy)20200726_185240 (https://flic.kr/p/2jqcxyy) by Livvydog (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141458655@N02/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50156962216_1d0065d9aa_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jqcxqC)20200726_185230 (https://flic.kr/p/2jqcxqC) by Livvydog (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141458655@N02/), on Flickr
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They are in the middle of the stave and won't be a structural issue. Continue making the bow.
Were the checks there when you removed the bark, or did they develop after you took it off.
Ideally osage should always have some sort of finish(shellac is good) on the back until you are sure that it is fully dry, because it likes to check, even when mostly dry.
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I agree with Hamish all around. Also fill the checks with super glue to fill the void and stop the check.
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Okay thanks. The checks were there when i removed the bark... I'll shalack it later. What kind of supar glue do you recommend? I only have thicker stuff wich i don't imagine would go all the way in. Also im thinking the checks would go all the way to the belly, is that alright?
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probably wont go to belly,
how wide is the stave,
,,, how thick is the stave you might be able to go down a few rings and see,,if they stop
we need more info,,
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Its 2 1/4" wide and 2 1/4 thick... the Checks seem pretty deep. Thanks again.
-Fox
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Use thin superglue to keep them from possibly going deeper. If you could show the rings on both ends of the stave we could offer better advice.
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alright heres some end pics. sorry for the poor quility, i outlined the cracks to make them more obviose.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50157756331_40862e054c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jqgBug)20200727_002604 (https://flic.kr/p/2jqgBug) by Livvydog (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141458655@N02/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50157754916_2bfa812ad9_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jqgB4S)20200727_002533 (https://flic.kr/p/2jqgB4S) by Livvydog (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141458655@N02/), on Flickr
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Looking at the first picture, you wouldn't normally use any of those first rings anyway - you need to take off the sapwood with Osage. If you work it down to that first fatter dark ring (actually aim for the one right above it), you should have plenty of meat left for a bow. Look up some threads or videos about chasing a ring before you start. Good luck!
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I agree. I would go down to one of the thicker rings about where the cracks stop. I would go ahead and fill the cracks with superglue to try to keep them from going deeper until you get past them. Also seal the back Everytime you expose new wood to prevent new ones from starting until you are sure the stave has dried totally.
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2x
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The first 8 or 10 rings have too much early wood. I'd go to the first darker late ring you can get to.
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Go down to the ring that looks like a reflexed handled bow strung :0
Osage doesn't need to be any wider than 1 1/2" max. If your bow is of normal weight then they are only going to be around 1/2" thick. Handle section could have a piece glued onto the belly to add thickness if needed.
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Okay, thanks bownarra. I'll chase the reflexed handle ring ;D
I'm am wanting to recurve the tips a good bit later on... 1.5" is wide enough for a recurve too?
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I think I would wait and see whats under all that wood before deciding what it will be.
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Yes indeed pat. That was just whats in my mind. I'm open to whatever kind of bow this peice of wood wants to be ;D. (Hopefully it want to be a bow )
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Yes 1.5" is easily wide enough.
Osage can take it :)
Thicker is quicker :)
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Okidoki thanks again bownarra. Never really worked with osage so ill probly be back with more questions after this season's a little longer!