Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Pat B on January 24, 2021, 03:12:11 pm
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I got this stave from the Tenn. Classic 2 years ago. Maybe from Clint but I don't remember. I removed the bark and sapwood a few weeks ago but was waiting for new bandsaw blades before I proceeded. The blades came in a few days ago so I started reducing the stave to look like a bow.
Here are a few end grain pics first...
(https://i.imgur.com/tYrHHUQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wCccjmL.jpg?1)
here the stave has been reduced to 2" wide. You will see some prop twist. I may try to build the bow without heat correction but I'll just have to see.
(https://i.imgur.com/3rOVSZm.jpg?1)
this is what I use to mark out the center line. It is similar to a Gizmo with some changes. The dowels ride along the sides of the stave.
(https://i.imgur.com/F5jbMts.jpg)
I cock the tool one way and draw the line...
(https://i.imgur.com/wFm4TB7.jpg)
then cock it the other way and draw the line. Where the line doubles I split the difference. This does a pretty good job of determining the center line.
(https://i.imgur.com/0g2ZGqC.jpg)
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that's a very ingineous solution, I think I'm going to steal your idea :D
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looking great, nice stave for sure,, :)
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Next I mark out the center, lengthwise and center my 4" handle there. This bow will have 4" fades as well so I mark them also...
(https://i.imgur.com/Hxajyt0.jpg?1)
I make these marks all around the stave for reference. This is one side. The back is at the top...
(https://i.imgur.com/fPZ5vOi.jpg)
and finally I cut out the side profile and handle. I have cut the limbs at 3/4" their full length. This will allow me to find a good back ring. There is one thicker one a few rings down that I will try for.
(https://i.imgur.com/aJRGZix.jpg)
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Will be following this one close.
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yes I think the natural reflex is gonna shoot great
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Looks good pat I'm excited to see how it goes. Like your centerline tool
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I’m watching Pat. (-P
Bjrogg
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I'll be following with interest.
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I’m watching Pat. (-P
Bjrogg
x2
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Allyn, the centering tool was my first attempt at a tillering Gizmo when Eric first came out with it. Then I had the thought about making a centering tool. I can remove the pencil, flip the block over, reinstall the pencil and use it as a Gizmo. my only change for the centering tool would be to make it longer so it would accept a larger stave. I don't remember where I got the idea for the centering tool.
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I’m watching Pat. (-P
Bjrogg
x2
+3
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Interesting idea with the centering tool. Definitely following your build. Thanks for doing it.
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Allyn, the centering tool was my first attempt at a tillering Gizmo when Eric first came out with it. Then I had the thought about making a centering tool. I can remove the pencil, flip the block over, reinstall the pencil and use it as a Gizmo. my only change for the centering tool would be to make it longer so it would accept a larger stave. I don't remember where I got the idea for the centering tool.
The idea came from your brain pat ;)
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Get it, Pat! Get it!
Glad to watch you work!
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This oughta be good
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Love watchin the pros work... gonna steal that centering tool idea, so simple.
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both ideas are awesome, being able to flip it over like that. a two in one tool. now I have to make one. simple and yet works great
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Up until now I've removed the bark and sapwood, cut the stave to 2" wide it's full length marked the center line the handle and fades. I've started in earnest to chase a back ring. Before I start this I put a ring around each knot with a pencil so I keep away from them until I'm ready to clean them up.
(https://i.imgur.com/xlhUDEM.jpg)
then I mark any ring violations with a pencil line
(https://i.imgur.com/4XZhr6k.jpg)
as you can see it can be pretty confusing. That's why I mark everything as I go. Each time I go through to the next ring I mark it and I put "Xs" on the deepest ring, my potential back ring.
(https://i.imgur.com/gdWY1x7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RJtcYlZ.jpg)
The tools I'm using today are a gooseneck scraper(mostly), a flat scraper and a draw knife(limited).
To be able to see the growth rings well I view the stave from one end, pointed towards natural light. This makes the rings pop out. Even today with an overcast, rainy day the natural light shows the rings so much better than the flourescent and LED lights in my shop. This is where patience and lots of pencil marks really helps.
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There is going to be a lot of knock offs on that centering tool! Very neat idea! Come all ye young and tender newbies, take care how to build your bow :BB (SH)! I am watching intently!
Hawkdancer
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Kenny C makes a bunch to be shot fliipped. Had hickory thats amazing shooter. Been doing it for some time now.
HH~
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Still chasing this illusive back ring. As I go down a ring the back becomes more concave slowing down the process. My primary tool has been the gooseneck scraper so with the knots(mostly pins), thin rings and the concavity of the back it's slow going. In this pic you can see the concave back.
(https://i.imgur.com/HWiGM0A.jpg)
I started about 10 and worked until noon then back at it at 1 until 2:30. I still have an hour or 2 to go to get the clean back I want.
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I'm gonna book mark this, thanks Pat
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I got the back chased today. Turns out most of the back is concave so my gooseneck scraper and myself have an intimate relationship. It's taken about 6 hours with the gooseneck mostly with a little help from a flat scraper and a flat and curved draw knife. I'll be heading back down to the shop after lunch to draw out and cut out the back profile then the fun begins. I'll post more pics later today. :OK
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Looking good Pat. I'll be following along. Nice stave.
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Way to get at it Pat. Question - because the back is concave are you going to be adjusting any portions of the design, ie does it call for a change of belly profile, trapping, etc???
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Kidder, I don't think I've built a bow yet with this much concaveness on the back. I'm building an ALB so I'll just see how it goes. I really don't do too much planning. I guess I'll just see what the wood wants to be. ;)
I've got more pics coming in a little bit. Stay tuned.
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I got down to a clean back, concave with a few pin knots. Most of the scraping was with a gooseneck scraper, about 6hrs totally to where the bow sits now. After cleaning up one limb I realized that the other limb was 2 layers down. I chased the other back clean but it overlaps at the center oh the handle. This will be a stiff handle bow so it shouldn't matter. Here are a few more pics of the progress...
I put a center line down the clean back again. At this point the stave is 2" wide. One side had a little tear out at the handle so I decided to make the bow 1 5/8" wide. This almost eliminates the tear out.
(https://i.imgur.com/Hxajyt0.jpg?1)
I use the center line to mark off the bow back profile. The lines across the limbs are spaced 6" apart from the fades to the tips. This helps me with layout. The line on the right will be the right side of the 1 5/8" limb...
(https://i.imgur.com/PMZiY4R.jpg?1)
After cutting the stave down to 1 5/8" I draw a line along the slide of the limb at 3/4", the initial thickness of limb starting point. I draw out the fades and the handle on the side. To reduce some of the excess wood from the belly I cut along the 3/4" line holding the limb at an angle to remove the side facet from the belly. I do the same on the other side.
(https://i.imgur.com/ldbMABY.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/vgyu4Tz.jpg?1)
after faceting both limbs I remove the peak down the center on the belly.
(https://i.imgur.com/xaeCOq5.jpg?1)
Besides the bandsaw these are the tools I have used so far
(https://i.imgur.com/hE13bcJ.jpg)
and these will be used from now on to shape the bow and reduce the belly and tiller the bow.
(https://i.imgur.com/Yd2sfLE.jpg)
to be continued...
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Still watching (-P
Bjrogg
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(-P (-P (-P
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Watching and learning.
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Pat do you follow the grain with your front view lines? I'm laying out a bow now and I wasn't sure if I should just measure off center line or follow the split edge because it follows the grain
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Looking good Pat.
Arvin
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Allyn, with the centering tool the center line follows the grain MOL. Grain lines will always be somewhat violated just by tapering the back profile but overall the bow follows the grain.
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I got a little more done today. My basement is cold, in the 40s and standing on the concrete floor gets that cold in my old bones so I limit my time down there.
My initial limb reduction was at 3/4". I check the floor tiller, basically to see if there is any bend. Generally at this thickness there isn't. I then mark out 5/8" along both sides of each limb by first making marks at 5/8" in a couple of locations down the limb and use my fingers and a pencil as a gauge to mark this line along the side of the limb...
(https://i.imgur.com/c4czWqT.jpg)
you can see the 3/4" line and the 5/8" line here...
(https://i.imgur.com/GPLjDpd.jpg)
and I make sure I follow the ups and downs of the back with this line...
(https://i.imgur.com/K8ZuYET.jpg)
then I use the farriers rasp to reduce the limb using the faceted method like before. You can see the peak down the center...
(https://i.imgur.com/G9ooOhA.jpg)
then I clean up the tool marks with a scraper making sure I round off and center the crown down the belly...
(https://i.imgur.com/FiRryoE.jpg)
at this point I floor tiller again. This time a little movement but hardly a bend. I'll go down another 1/8" as I did above and check the bend again. At some point I may reduce the width if I think the limbs are getting too thin but still too stiff.
to be continued...
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awesome pics, great explaination too. thanks
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This is great. I am a beginner and I pay very close attention to this stuff. Thank you. btw: I am a little embarrassed but I bought a plastic centering tools before I laid out my first bow. 'Big Horn 19108 center finder'.
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Thanks guys. Glad it's a help.
More to come... :OK
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Looking good Pat, coming right along. :)
Pappy
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Today I drew a line along the edges of the limbs at 1/2" and reduced the belly to those lines with a crowned belly.
(https://i.imgur.com/NRlVWWz.jpg)
throughout the tillering process I check the thickness and evenness of the thickness using my hand as a gauge. Amazing how small a difference you can feel with your hands like this. With the concave back this is important to get the thickness even ...
(https://i.imgur.com/ERLKUEu.jpg)
From here I move from the bench vise to the Stave Master by Keenan Howard a former PA member and fabulous selfbow builder from Bend Oregon. This is the best bow tool I ever bought. Keenan has a bad back so he built himself a bow building bench he could comfortably use.It comes with a seat swivel and I bought the plastic boat seat. Nice having the back rest.
The Satve Master is where I do most of the tillering while building a bow.
(https://i.imgur.com/ne8Jz91.jpg)
the front portion swivels...
(https://i.imgur.com/4oRaBAG.jpg)
both directions...
(https://i.imgur.com/uiU1SnJ.jpg)
and the "table" at the knucklehead slides forward and back for working different parts of the limb...
(https://i.imgur.com/ZJ96x4p.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ejp2oDI.jpg)
Coming up will mostly be done with a scraper. Even at 1/2" thickness with a crowned belly the limbs are too stiff at floor tiller so I will be narrowing this bow from 1 1/2" to 1 3/8". Then the tillering begins...
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really nice set up Pat, the bows looking great,, :)
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Thanks, Brad. Yep, she's coming along.
I had planned to not use heat to adjust the stave but now I think I will. I'll remove the prop twist, do a little straightening and add a little reflex. I'll get her down in mass some first though.
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Looking good.
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Even at 1/2" thick and 1 1/2" wide the limbs are too stiff, hardly bending at all at floor tiller. So I narrows the limbs to 1 3/8, marking the knots near the edges so I can leave a little width there.
(https://i.imgur.com/VZFWeLz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/f4KOkIy.jpg)
then I reduced the thickness to 7/16" with the farriers rasp. Then I removed the tool marks with the scraper keeping the belly radiused. At this point I decided I'd explain how I use a scraper. If you use the scraper just perpendicular across the limbs it can cause undulations, waves, on the belly
(https://i.imgur.com/uWGypm2.jpg)
so by alternate the scraper from straight, then cocked to the left
(https://i.imgur.com/J05xJxm.jpg)
then to the right on alternate scrapes
(https://i.imgur.com/MZOQBjp.jpg)
it helps to take down the crest of these unwanted waves by hitting the high spots created by using the scraper only perpendicularly.
I also found these hanging from the bow bench where I keep them. When my daughter comes to visit she and I stay up late drinking red wine and watching zombie shows on TV like Walking Dead and Fear of Walking Dead. One year for Christmas she gave these to me. Being a hunting forum I thought them appropriate.
(https://i.imgur.com/uxhyCdY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tqDuF8X.jpg)
more to come...
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Great to see an expert's build-along for once :D
How radiused is the belly?
BTW, I love long narrow ALBs. I'm sure this will turn out beautifully.
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It will only be a slight radius once the bow is done and the corners rounded. It gets relatively flat while I'm building, especially while I'm going around knots, etc. The concave back will also have something to do with how much radius and where.
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As I'm reducing the belly and using my hand as a thickness gauge I mark the thick areas, areas where I need to remove wood with a squiggly line. You can see it at the top edge of the limb.
(https://i.imgur.com/6ro764M.jpg)
And when floor tillering and I see an area that is bending I draw a line across the limb with an "X" where I don't want to remove wood. These markings help me keep things straight in my head as I tiller the bow.
(https://i.imgur.com/tl2kOxd.jpg)
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thanks for the scraper tip. I totally understand the marking the X so that you keep things straight in your head.
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Exactly. Anything I can do to keep what's in my head straight. ;D
At this point in the build the staves edges have been sharp.
(https://i.imgur.com/HjmI0eQ.jpg)
so from now on I'll be sure the edges on the back will be eased a bit by slightly rounding it
(https://i.imgur.com/4XAO5KI.jpg)
initially I had planned to use the stave as is without heat corrections but I decided otherwise. Clamped to the caul you can see how far out this limb is
(https://i.imgur.com/9rr6B93.jpg)
so as I always do I coated the belly with cooking oil
(https://i.imgur.com/qXo2zoF.jpg)
Got my clamps and small luan plywood clamp pads standing by and started heating at the fades. to get the limb over enough I place a small pad to use as the fulcrum for the initial bend
(https://i.imgur.com/QgvMtKO.jpg)
I used the wooden clamp to pull the limb around
(https://i.imgur.com/XlV8VCZ.jpg)
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while the "C" clamps and pads pull the limb down on the form. With each clamp I heat the immediate area until I can't hold my thumb on it and clamp.
(https://i.imgur.com/topH3yK.jpg)
The clamp on the end brings the crooked end around.
(https://i.imgur.com/sgJTZh5.jpg)
After the corrected spots have been heated and clamped I go over the whole limb with the heat gun then leave it clamped until the next session.
This is how the stave looked when I first clamped it to the form at the handle. We'll compare this later with the other limb done.
(https://i.imgur.com/4duMLqt.jpg)
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thanks for the build...love the form...it looks exactly like the one I have used since back when Gary Davis let me copy one of his first cauls... if it works, why change it? :OK
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Gary and Pappy at Twin Oaks inspired this form.
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Gary and Pappy at Twin Oaks inspired this form.
:OK
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Looking very good Pat, you are coming right along. :)
Pappy
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Thanks, Pappy. It's good to get wood chips under my feet again. :OK
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nice thread Pat..4" fades... thats a two handle bow haha... I never profile a bow till I got my back done.. ... thin rings I guess you can get away with it.. definitely eliminates a lot of chasing..gut
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Gut, even though I drew out the handle on the stave I won't cut it out until the bow gets to first brace. As you know this is so I can move the handle and the tips(they are at about 1" now) for that matter to help achieve proper string tracking. The 4" fades are sorta traditional with ALBs so I thought I would go with that option. Generally my fades are 2" in most cases but sometimes even 1 1/2" fades.
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I was referring to roughing out profile ...side profile... until back is done.. most of my osage is from Ga.. fat rings.. fat earlywood too... ... watching your thread ..looking good.. gut
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Even though I start out drawing a traditional handle from the side view I usually go with a bulbous handle which will change that profile quite a bit in the end.
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I do exact same thing.. however this 54" I'm piddling with has a very small handle only 1 1/4 at its widest point on bow which will probable get reduced a lil still...handle area is about an inch now but thin due to stave issues ... I kinda like it for now..and its going to get smaller..LOL... gut
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I turned the stave around on the form to work the other limb. This limb wasn't off by much so mostly adding the reflex...
(https://i.imgur.com/QOvxnAZ.jpg)
...and removing a little twist from the tip...
(https://i.imgur.com/5tuPo0S.jpg?1)
so I oiled and heated the limb and clamped to the form...
(https://i.imgur.com/V0bEYHc.jpg)
As I'm heating the area to be adjusted I hold the heat gun about an inch above the belly and move it back and forth over about a 6" area, get it hot enough and clamp it. Then I move down the limb 6" at a time. The dark spot on the limb is a shadow not a scorch. I don't like to scorch the limb while making corrections. If I'm going to temper(heat treat) the belly I do that separately and without oil so it does scorch the belly.
The last adjustment of this limb is getting the tip twist out. I do this by adding a beveled pad under the down side of the twist and clamp the other side to twist the tip the opposite direction...
(https://i.imgur.com/sXlzxQ0.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/zi2eTOm.jpg)
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Watching intently Pat. Thanks for taking the time to photo.
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Looking good so far. Thanks for bringing us along on the build. Looking forward to the finished product.
Mike
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Looks great, Pat. This is a great teaching tool. Jawge
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Great build along. Thanks for taking the photos and explaining the steps you take along the way.
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Did a little more today. Took the stave off the form after the 2nd limb cooled. This limb didn't take as much reflex as the other but I'll take care of that later.
(https://i.imgur.com/4kNjtTE.jpg)
...but I did get rid of most of the tip twist...
(https://i.imgur.com/ULQDmWP.jpg)
Then I developed the back profile, 1 1/2" at the fades and out 4" before tapering to 1" about 7" from the 3/4" tip(for now).
(https://i.imgur.com/vqN5yPz.jpg?1)
now it's time for the temporary string nocks. I go down 3/4" on the back and 1" on the belly and put a pencil mark...
(https://i.imgur.com/NU8cFpy.jpg)
...and cut the grooves with a chainsaw file to about 1/2 the diameter of the file...
(https://i.imgur.com/pBJo0IP.jpg?1)
...and make sure to go around to the belly to guide the string...
(https://i.imgur.com/u4ELvOI.jpg?1)
Then I put on a string just a bit longer than the bow...
(https://i.imgur.com/iciyx4f.jpg)
...then a little short exercising and a short hold to get a view of the initial tiller...
(https://i.imgur.com/GGG8xmH.jpg)
That's it for now, more to come...
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thats looking great, nice profile,, :)
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Enjoying the build-along. Thanks for posting it as you go.
My basement shop is similar to yours, cool in the summer but frigid in the winter. I solved the latter with a little electric oil filled radiator. It's on wheels so I move to where I'm working. I really use the heck out of it in the winter months.
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Thanks guys.
Gifford, my basement has never been below 40 deg, generally in the mid 40s in the winter. Only the south wall is exposed to the weather, the other 3 are mostly underground. I used to do all my bow building in the winter because of the cool basement. But in the last few years the cold gets into my bones so I only spend a couple of hours down there. The oil filled radiator sounds like a good idea I may have to try.
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Another option to an oil radiator is a space heater. but an oil heater seems to be the better option with the con that it takes longer to heat up. A space heater will heat up instantly but is more a fire hazard compared to an oil heater.
anyway, im really enjoying this build along!
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don't blame you on the cold, I no longer like it. something about aching all over and just freezing anymore. 40 degrees seems doable for a while. But it looks like you are very productive in your time down there.
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She's sitting well in the cradle. Looks good. Jawge
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Starting to look good Pat
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Thanks everyone.
I did a little more today but my camera ate the pics. I'll get more done tomorrow.
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I've already learned from this. I'm excited to see the tiller progress
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Good Allyn, Glad it has helped. :OK
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I got back in the shop today. Early on in the tillering process I continually check limb thickness using my hand and a pencil as a thickness gauge. You can see here where the pencil line highlights this thick area. I'll use the #49 Nicholson to remove the bulk then a scraper to remove the tool marks and even out the area...
(https://i.imgur.com/BtTvfmB.jpg)
I continue this pencil line through the handle area from limb to limb to keep the thickness consistent...
(https://i.imgur.com/Uc4N5Yx.jpg)
I'm using a slightly loose tillering string here on the tiller tree and after exercising well I pull to 17" on the tiller tree. She is pulling 50# at that 17" so I have plenty of weight to loose to adjust tiller...
(https://i.imgur.com/ZHvkJtr.jpg)
Now it's time to get the good ole tiller Gizmo and tiller stick out. I don't use a tiller stick much except when using the Gizmo. My tiller stick only has 4 settings, 4.5", 7.5", 11.5" and 14"...
(https://i.imgur.com/ohUyJ0H.jpg)
...and here you can see the Gizmo in action. The pencil line is where a few scrapes are needed...
(https://i.imgur.com/QfAnn03.jpg?1)
Well, that's it for now. More to come...
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Looking good Pat, I like to use the Gizmo also with my tiller stick at least until I get it to brace, seems no one much uses the tiller stick anymore but i always do until braced. Different strokes. ;) :) :)
Pappy
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Pappy, like you I only use it early on. That's why my stick is so short. Using it only to brace should have little adverse affects on the bow and less chance of adverse affects on the bowyer too. :o I've had longer tiller sticks slip and come close to beaning me.
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Ya I just use them till brace, just seems most now just floor tiller and straight to long string, I just see what I am doing better with the stick to start out,also that's how I learned,I just take my time until I get it ready to brace. either way your bow is looking good. ;)
Pappy
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Enjoying the progress, Pat.
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I got the bow to brace today. The tiller is off with most of the bend at mid limb on both sides. The left side not as bad as the right. I still have at least 10# to sweat so I should be good.
(https://i.imgur.com/fJewiSC.jpg)
This is pulled to 22", going for 26"
(https://i.imgur.com/muCCJHn.jpg)
The one limb tip with the twist had a lateral bend near the tip so with as little oil, a little heat and a few clamps I made the adjustment. I also narrowed the tips to 1/2". Once the string tracks correctly I'll start working on the handle.
(https://i.imgur.com/f5GVGXc.jpg?1)
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Looking great Pat. Thanks for taking time to document the process with photos. I’m getting a lot out of this build.
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Great build along! Lots of good info! Thanks,
Hawkdancer
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I decided to Draw the handle and shape it. I use a compass to draw 3 circles for a bulbous handle. On the center line of the handle I draw a circle 1 1/4" diameter and 2" either side of center (handle area) I draw a circle 7/8" in diameter then draw a line joining these circles on either side and then out to the 1 1/2" limb width at the fade. I also shortened the fades to 3" instead of the 4" I originally planned.
(https://i.imgur.com/Cjx2gtz.jpg)
then I start shaping the handle with the farriers rasp and #49 Nicholson...
(https://i.imgur.com/SB7c0wN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GyWaAsr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5pDnLlj.jpg)
I keep drawing these reference lines around the handle area throughout the handle shaping to help keep me on track.
(https://i.imgur.com/5A3vfKC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/P9OaVdJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ta8WkR5.jpg)
and here is the back profile of the bow. This bow is symmetrical but the pic shows otherwise.
(https://i.imgur.com/UW9Hfie.jpg)
I made a new string, got the bow to brace and sweated it for about an hour. Sweating is keeping a newly built bow braced for a period of time. Only do this if things are close to even. After the 1 hr sweat she still held 1" of reflex. I still haven't determined top and bottom limb yet. That will after I shoot her some. She'll tell me which way is up. ;)
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Dang pat all these little nuggets of info are awesome
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Looking good Pat. Can’t wait to see itbending.
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It's coming along. Pat. Jawge
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Thanks guys.
Allyn, that's why I did it. Passing on the knowledge someone else gave me.
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Perfect timing for the method on a bulbous handle. Headed to the basement to try and replicate your instructions Pat. Hopefully it'll turn out. Thanks.
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Looking good Pat! How deep is the handle at this point?
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Great pictures-step by step-on the bulbous handle layout and execution.
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TimBo, it's about 1 1/2" maybe a little less at this point. I will adjust it to my hand later when I start shooting. I still have to determine top and bottom limb.
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Really enjoying and learning! Just thinking through sweating...if it’s not perfect tiller isn’t it going to pick up set in the weak spots though? It would make me think that you shouldn’t sweat it unless you got it almost perfect. What am I missing?
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You are right, Kidder. If the tiller is off sweating can cause problems. Even though this bow's tiller at 1/2 to 3/4 draw isn't perfect at brace it is close enough to sweat.
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I think the sweating is a gentle way to reveal the way the bow would take set and you can correct that before its over strained,, when I first unstring it I can see what needs correcting,,
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I think you're right, Brad plus I think it helps to balance the limbs somewhat too.
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your right Pat,, I think so too,,
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Thanks for posting this build along Pat. I haven't built one in a long while, but this has inspired me. Can't wait to see it all finished up!
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I woke up on Friday and my lower back decided go a different direction than the rest of my body. :o So I've been laying around with my friends, Ibuprofen and heat pad and not getting much bow work done. This happens occasionally so I just deal with it the best I can for a few days and then I'll be back to normal. Thanks for your patience.
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Hope you get feeling better Pat.
Mines been doing that for about six months or so.
Bjrogg
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I've been dealing with this for 30 years now, BJ. I learned early on that when I feel it going I have to just relax for a few days and it will pass. The few times I ignored it it really put me down. A few years ago I was on the couch for 3 months because I ignored it.
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Since I won't be bracing or drawing my bow for a while I decided to show another little trick I use on my bows. Generally the back of the handle is relatively flat with square but with rounded edges. This is uncomfortable for me so I started adding a rounded overlay on the back. I used to own a leather shop so I have these shoe sole leather precuts. They are about 1/4" thick. Other materials can be used like cork or even cardboard.
(https://i.imgur.com/rT5wLx8.jpg)
I cut out a strip that is about 4" long and a little over an inch wide.
(https://i.imgur.com/NlEPEGt.jpg)
then go to the belt sander and shape it to a long oval.
(https://i.imgur.com/dWBdNGr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/j5PXtaG.jpg)
then round the edges and across the back.
(https://i.imgur.com/lv49Wca.jpg)
and try it on for size
(https://i.imgur.com/BNrHMle.jpg)
after shaping I soak the leather in water until it is malleable, remove the excess water, and size the flat side of the leather and the back of the handle with TBIII
(https://i.imgur.com/ZV5IsI1.jpg)
put them together and hold them in place with strips of rubber bands. I also use rubber backs as clamps for tip overlays.
(https://i.imgur.com/3LTD56V.jpg)
to be continued...
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Pat,,Great build along. Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed the pics of the leather backing of the handle. Great idea that I may be using on a future bow. Take care of your back. I'm sure you are aware since you have been going through it for 30 years. A back is something you don't want to mess with. Stay healthy.
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You're not gonna believe this but I got the bow tillered, sanded and put a few shots through her yesterday. She was coming in a little light so I piked her by about 1" at each tip. She is now 62" N/N and 64" T/T, is pulling about 43#@26" and shoots pretty good. I decided to keep the finish pretty simple so there will be no tip overlays. I will add a rattan handle wrap and a floppy rest.
Just so you'll believe I'm finishing her up here is a pic for your viewing pleasure. More to come...
(https://i.imgur.com/fAfyFJp.jpg)
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Im excited to see it Pat!!!!
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Thanks, Russell. Me too! :OK
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looks great, love the handle,, :)
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Waiting for the centerfold shots!
Hawkdancer
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Hawkdancer x 2. Looks great Pat.
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thanks Pat... you are doing a great job as always. :OK
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Thanks guys. I've got about 4 coats of Tru Oil on her as of now. Tomorrow I'll get 2 coats more on and after that dries a quick spray of satin poly and she'll be good to go. I put the rattan wrap on the handle with a floppy rest. I need to put lots more arrows through her but she's holding 1" of reflex now.
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I’m watching Pat. (-P
Bjrogg
Me to! Haven't seen a PatB build along in a long time!
Patrick
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Great to see you around, Patrick. How's it been? :OK
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Great to see you around, Patrick. How's it been? :OK
Thanks Pat, I've had a ton of things going on the last few years. Been busy with work and some minor health issues. I sure have missed everyone on here. Man there are a lot of new people that's for sure! I have checked in from time to time but haven't posted anything. I am finally back to work on a black locust bow and I plan to post it when I get it done. It's been a long time and it feels good to get some sawdust on my hands.
Patrick
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Just a tease...
(https://i.imgur.com/oeEkh7J.jpg)
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HEY!
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Nice detailed set up type build a long Pat B.
Good to see you back on here too Patrick.
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Hope this works. My computer is not letting me post pics
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Beautiful bow Pat. Thanks for the detailed build along. Very informative and awesome results!
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...here comes a few more pics. This first one was unbraced just after a dozen or so shots. I'll get a full draw shot after Marcia finishes doing our taxes later today.
(https://i.imgur.com/Qy0sHW1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YPDo6tA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8ZuJaFZ.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/FJCGTKS.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/zsvoKpi.jpg?1)
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That bow turned out beautifully, Pat. I am realizing how much better my shooting is in the low 40’s than 50. I really like the rattan wrap and those warts are GREAT!
Nice job, buddy!
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Dang. Doesn’t get any better than that. Great build Pat!
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Thank you, guys.
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That "knotty girl" looks great. I like your grip wrap too. Thanks for the build! :OK
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Love it! Beautiful!
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Here's braced and full draw.
(https://i.imgur.com/gmrSTu6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/khJVQ5F.jpg)
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Nice work Pat...That one is a quick shooter I know...Looks cocked and loaded at the handle and fades... love the slightly stiff outers...Nice bend... (SH) 8)
Don
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Yeah, Don, she could have bent more into the handle but as she is she shoots quite well. I've always liked a straight limb selfbow but they always seemed to get bent up. ::) I was determined to not bend these tips. :OK
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I don't know Pat, I think I need to evaluate that one in my own hands. I'll pm you my address, if it ok after I check it out for you I'll let you know. (-S
Patrick
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Looking good, Pat!
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beatiful, congrats,, :)
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Well done, Pat. She looks great! Jawge
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Pat,
When I said cocked and loaded, I was referring to the slightly reflexed look in the handle area... Your fades out of the handle are excellent...I should have said Cocked, Locked and ready to Rock! Sorry for the confusion man... (SH)
Don
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Looking good Pat.
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Turned out great Pat. Thanks for the details throughout the build.
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Thanks guys. She's now with a friend that wanted a selfbow. That's why we make um, isn't it? ;) :BB
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Thanks guys. She's now with a friend that wanted a selfbow. That's why we make um, isn't it? ;) :BB
Heck yeah, Pat. Couldn’t have put it better. Good on ya.
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Nice Pat! You're right, that's why we do it!
Patrick
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It's like watching a master, thanks for sharing this!