Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: Fox on February 06, 2021, 01:34:06 pm
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I’m wondering if I should get a fletching jig.... I can’t for the life of me make an accurate arrow... and it’s not me.... cause I can group arrows that I’ve bought plenty good.
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Make sure your shafts are in-line fore and aft, and your feathers are from the same side. A jig will help keep the feather oriented. Don't give up, most primitive arrows were made without a jig. That being said, buy or trade for the best you can afford. I have the Bitzenburger, it has clamps available for right, left, and straight Fletches, it is rather pricey, though! Good luck! Keep practicing building and shooting!
Hawkdancer
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A fletching jig does make it easier but not necessary. An Eastern Woodland 2 fletch or tangential sty;e fletching with 3 or 4 small feathers tied to the shaft both work well without a jig.
I have a JoJan Multifletch that takes left, right or straight fletch. Mine is straight and I offset them for more spin.Not a helical but offset.
Either the JoJan or the Blitz would be good choices but pricey. The both make single fletch jigs too I think.
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I have never actually tried this, although I am planning to next time I make up some three fletch arrows, but some people use a feather guide instead of a jig. Take a piece of cardboard, cut a hole and three slits (like you shot it with a three blade BH), slide it over the shaft, and use that to hold the fletching as you glue it in place. Definitely make sure the feathers are all from the same side and are the correct ones for the direction of spin/twist you are using. That can really mess things up!
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If you use fletching tape you don't need a jig.
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when I make my primitive arrows I tie by hand.. I peel the feather from the quill it will be just like skin..cut to about 5 or 6 inch I remove some of feather from front and end to tie too leave some skin there with no feather .. I put a fine coat of hide glue on shaft then hold the tree feathers in my hand and wrap the front end down then spiral wrap till the end and wrap it ..all with sinew.. you have plenty of time to adjust your feathers to the orientation you need and even add a helical to it.. of course use either all right wing or left wing.. not sure that really matters if you peel them bit I still do.. you can cut in nock then or prior to wrapping if nock already cut..I then either burn or cut the fletching down or leave full for flu flu.. I have never lost a single feather off my arrows doing this way... and its so easy even a caveman can do it..haha.. gut
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thanks for all the good advice guys..... gut, thats pretty similar to what I've been doing... although I don't use hide glue, which I should probably do... and I put the glue on the feather not the shaft... and the fletching always doesn't look quite right... and only 1 out of the 30 or so arrows I've made has flown perfect... ill try fletching a few with your method and see how it goes
(these were hefted with dogbane I didn't have sinew at the time)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50927812337_bb0470d33a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kAjmiX)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kAjmiX) by Livvydog (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141458655@N02/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50927683731_4dad993e85_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kAiG5B)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kAiG5B) by Livvydog (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141458655@N02/), on Flickr(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50927683661_34d5b2811a_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kAiG4p)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2kAiG4p) by Livvydog (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141458655@N02/), on Flickr
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I'd say you've got it. Nice arrow.
Are you orienting the shaft so the stiff side goes against the bow? That will make a difference how it flies.
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I agree with Pat B. Nice work!
Hawkdancer
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hm I must just be crazy ;D well thats good to know, I guess if you two think the fletches are good then it must be the shaft... I might try Tonkin cane from khans or something.... I've heard leaving arrows long can help with accuracy and getting around the shelf.. my arrows are all around 28" i guess thats pretty short... I mean they seemed to bare shaft pretty good, but I dunno...
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Like I asked above...are you putting the stiff side of the arrow against the bow? If not try shooting some of the bad shooting arrows with the cock feather in.
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Like I asked above...are you putting the stiff side of the arrow against the bow? If not try shooting some of the bad shooting arrows with the cock feather in.
I will try shooting some from the cock feather.... yeah I believe I tried to put the stiff side against the bow.... I have a kind hard time finding the stiff side, I don't have a spine tester so its all by feel,....
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You could always make sort of a partial spine tester - just suspend the arrow shaft between two points like the backs of chairs, hang some sort of weight from the center, and observe where you get the most movement/sag. I wouldn't use more than two pounds for the weight though!
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Fox I may be seeing wrong but looking at your nock it appears there is no way to get a clean arrow pass the way the fletching is orientated... Most my bows have a shelf and my main concern is having a clean shaft pass top of shelf..whether cock feather is in or out it doesn't matter but you don't want a feather pointing straight down to hit hand or shelf.. your going to get flex off arrow at drop of string still.. a buddy came to my house saying his arrows were everywhere.. he nocked one up and I said whooa.. buddy .. flip the arrow over your shooting it upside down.. 3 seconds and his problem was fixed...gut
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gut ... I think im pickin up what your puttin down.....any chance you could post a pic so I understand completely ?
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I want to second the spine tester. Easy to make...and you rather quickly, three years :D, learn to kinda feel out the spine that works for arrow pass, your favorite draw weight, and your own personal release.
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What is your draw length! Generally, I think the arrow length should be long enough for the point to be clear of the back of your bow and your grip hand at full draw. As for a spine tester, as TimBo said, a 2 lb weight, and set your rests 28" apart, you can fudge just a bit on that. If you have a known spine arrow, put your weight dead center and mark the sag point for reference. Most shafts you buy will be in a 5# range, such as 40-45#.
Hawkdancer
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my draw length varies with the bow,,, but with the 28" arrows it was a 27" draw
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I realize I'm a bit late to this party but still think I can help. I recently left my fletching jig at a family member's house and had to make a couple of arrows without it. Here's an old-school method that I use on occasion.
Wrap the front of the fletchings without glue and orient them evenly around the shaft. Then apply a small bit of glue to each feather one at a time as you normally would. Hold the glued edge of the quill to the shaft for a few minutes until it adheres enough to be let go. This technique relies entirely on your ability to eyeball and works best for short fletchings. A simple clamp can be made from a couple pieces of cardboard to hold the quill straight if a longer fletch is needed.
I hope this helps. Cheers
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I realize I'm a bit late to this party but still think I can help. I recently left my fletching jig at a family member's house and had to make a couple of arrows without it. Here's an old-school method that I use on occasion.
Wrap the front of the fletchings without glue and orient them evenly around the shaft. Then apply a small bit of glue to each feather one at a time as you normally would. Hold the glued edge of the quill to the shaft for a few minutes until it adheres enough to be let go. This technique relies entirely on your ability to eyeball and works best for short fletchings. A simple clamp can be made from a couple pieces of cardboard to hold the quill straight if a longer fletch is needed.
I hope this helps. Cheers
Part of that is a method that I’ve heard of but never tried it..... I’m going to give your method a try! Do you split the feather with a knife or pull it off?
Thanks for the help!
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Have you ever tried shooting one without any fletching? A bareshaft test? It can tell you a lot about your arrows.
Fletching is always the last thing I do. And before I fletch them I always shoot them bareshaft. If they fly tail left or right I change either the weigh of point or the length of arrows.
If you have a properly tuned arrow. It shouldn’t require much fletching.
If you want to talk bare shaft testing though, that’s a another thread. It gets difficult to describe, but it’s really pretty simple
Bjrogg
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bj, yes I always bar shaft, and that's usually easy for me to get correct arrow flight.... but most of the time after I fletch them I can't get them to shoot straight or group, although they usually won't group before fletching either. Now when I pick up a quiver of store-bought arrows I can shoot them all into a teacup (as the guy from khans says)