Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: simson on August 01, 2021, 07:05:45 am
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Several guys asked me to explain how I do string alignment, heat corrections, recurve bending and so on.
Here I will show some of my methods on a very special stave. This specimen is very fine ringed (some about 1 mm) and it was already hard work getting the ring chased. And this stick has a lot of imperfections (at least nobody wanted to buy that stave, hahaha).
But, in fact, it is a character stave, it's osage (best bow wood ever) -- so let's make a nice character recurve ...
What I did so far:
- the final ring is chased
- the handle section is determined, using a grain wiggle from a dead branch for arrow pass (being a righty this wiggle also determines upper and lower limb)
- the stave is cut to length, design will be asymmetric
- the handle is roughly worked out, very little wood here and at the fades (dangerous narrow)
- width and depth of the limbs are roughly worked out, this shows much better the imperfections of this stave
- sides and belly are cleaned with the scraper for a better view
- the fades are already symmetrical worked out (front profile), the wiggle caused the serious fragile looking front
let’s do the analysis:
1. There is a twist in/near the handle of about 45°. little chance to bring that out completely by heating (dry heat) or steaming. For better comfort I will build up the handle with cork or leather
2. Upper limb leaves the handle reflexed, lower limb deflexed, both with an opposing twist. I will try to steam handle and fade section to equalize deflex and reflex and hopefully get out some of the twist.
3. Both limbs are more or less a saber (front profile), the lower more and with a definite kink.
Steaming the limb and flexing on a caul and induce a continuous and symmetrical (balanced) reflex or flip (side view).
4. The stave has an uneven, inhomogeneous crown, I will react on the belly side. Where’s a mountain on the back, there has to be a valley on the belly. In other words an even thickness.
5. At arrow pass (I’m a righty) is a torn out grain / splinter, coming from splitting around the formerly branch. I can not rasp down more, it’s already extreme thin (narrow) there. So the only thing which came in my mind was to glue on a piece of horn or bone as arrow pass to hide that failure and get a pleasing surface. Maybe I just try to glue that thing with super glue or epoxi.
6. The stave has a twist of about 80° from tip to tip.
Maybe a good amount of corrections could already be done with No.3.
If not, I will do additional sessions with the heatgun.
7. The stave has, as already said, very fine rings. Those fine ringed specimen get a really great look when fumed.
I will do a fuming session of about a week or so.
Hard to show all the wonky up and downs, sideway bends and so on in pics, in reality it looks much more dramatic
Here is stave/blank before corrections
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-1-von-12.jpeg)
looking down from lower limb
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-2-von-12.jpeg)
the wiggle determines handle position and what is upper and lower limb, the stave is very narrow here; I leave the splinter first; bow will be asymmetrical
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-3-von-12.jpeg)
looking down from upper limb
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-4-von-12.jpeg)
looking down from lower limb, this tip is mighty curved sideways
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-5-von-12.jpeg)
humps and uneven crown
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-6-von-12.jpeg)
looking down from upper limb, twisted and misaligned
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-7-von-12.jpeg)
twisted and misaligned, upper limb is right
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-8-von-12.jpeg)
deflex on lower, reflex on upper fade: both twisted
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-9-von-12.jpeg)
upper limb is right; the back shows the arrow pass (wiggle); the back at the handle has a sideway angle about 25° (I will build it up to an O-shape with cork)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-10-von-12.jpeg)
Also a view of the handle section, pencil marks (at the right half) shows the handle position
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-11-von-12.jpeg)
good view of the total twist of 80°
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-12-von-12.jpeg)
Lower fade and limb, the grain makes a side curve due the knot; the pencil marks are position marks for comparing lower and upper limb width
TO BE CONTINUED SOON ...
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Thanks for doing this build along Simon! 80 degrees of twist comparing the nocks, this will be an interesting build...
Don
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I’m loving this so far Simson. I’ve wanted to build one with you for a long time.
Bjrogg
PS this is going to be a sweet bow I can already see it
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Wow Simon looks like you got a challenge there. Should be a beautiful specimen when your done. I worked one similar to this a few months back and it wasn’t half as knarly as this one and I was blown away how much work is involved. I ended up with catastrophic failure on full draw when completed unfortunately I believe due to too much heat corrections in same spots. Jamie from Ravenbeak warned me about the heat in same spot more then once and I didn’t listen. Oh well live and learn. Are you heat correcting with oil? Can’t wait to see your progress. I like the idea of horn arrow pass too I’ve done some on mine on white wood bows and the Buffalo horn looks good. Keep us posted!
Dave
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Thank you for sharing some of your knowledge, Simon. Following with great interest. Definitely a character build.
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I'm looking forward to this build as well.
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What a fantastic stave, Simon. Looking forward to seeing your magic at work. 8) :OK
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Pretty wild character in that one. Can’t wait to see what you do with it. Can you speak more to how you find a balance in keeping character and not over-correcting?
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This is gonna be crazy
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Yes, craaaaaaaaaazy!
Looking foreward!
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It's always a pleisure to see your work. I really love your website. I can't wait to see the final result. Good luck
Captaine Patenaude
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That's a lot of character!
This is going to be good. (-P
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My days of messing about with wood like this are passed :) Straight wood for me :)
you can always grow your own osage :) Supply overseas of osage is getting to be a bit of a joke. Sellers prices have jumped somewhat since I started buying 'sage, that and the quality has fallen throught the floor.....staves like yours are getting to be the 'norm'. A few suppliers I know have clearly cut all the good stuff they have access to! When I think back to some of the staves I got years ago.....
Good luck and it will be interesting to see what you come up with.
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Thanks for doing this build along Simon! 80 degrees of twist comparing the nocks, this will be an interesting build...
Don
Don, the twist is distributed over some spots on the whole length of the bow, so it shouldn't be worst problem ...
we will see!
I’m loving this so far Simson. I’ve wanted to build one with you for a long time.
Bjrogg
PS this is going to be a sweet bow I can already see it
Brian, I don't know how you can see a sweeet bow, but I will do my best >:D >:D >:D
Wow Simon looks like you got a challenge there. Should be a beautiful specimen when your done. I worked one similar to this a few months back and it wasn’t half as knarly as this one and I was blown away how much work is involved. I ended up with catastrophic failure on full draw when completed unfortunately I believe due to too much heat corrections in same spots. Jamie from Ravenbeak warned me about the heat in same spot more then once and I didn’t listen. Oh well live and learn. Are you heat correcting with oil? Can’t wait to see your progress. I like the idea of horn arrow pass too I’ve done some on mine on white wood bows and the Buffalo horn looks good. Keep us posted!
Dave
Dave, i don't use oil for the heating with hg often, only for really thick portions. On osage I have heated the same spots several times without problems. The trick is Imo to go not too hot. I use an electronic hg, it has a scale on the back for adjusting temp.
Don & Pat: Thanks guys, it will last some time. I have to wait inbetween the sessions, but try to stay tuned
Pretty wild character in that one. Can’t wait to see what you do with it. Can you speak more to how you find a balance in keeping character and not over-correcting?
Ryan, Imo corrections for string alignment is a must, but I try to hold the character. So tend to bend in portions were already curves are.
The side view is another thing. Theoretically it is possible to build a bow (longbow, d-bow, ..) from every stick, no matter how many humps and bumps, doglegs and so are in. It is more an aesthetically thing. Here in this buildalong I wanna show how I do recurved bows. This efforts more balanced out limbs. The recurves will be stiffer than the limbs, and I have to make the fades long (due some violations and very narrow). So there will not be too much length for the bending aerea.
My days of messing about with wood like this are passed :) Straight wood for me :)
you can always grow your own osage :) Supply overseas of osage is getting to be a bit of a joke. Sellers prices have jumped somewhat since I started buying 'sage, that and the quality has fallen throught the floor.....staves like yours are getting to be the 'norm'. A few suppliers I know have clearly cut all the good stuff they have access to! When I think back to some of the staves I got years ago.....
Good luck and it will be interesting to see what you come up with.
Mike, I understand what you say. For me it is a challange, and I like the work with the wood. Esp. when it comes to osage, it can be bend so easily.
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The sessions:
First session: steaming the outer ⅔ of the limbs and bend in the recurves on a caul.
I do this always in two steps, every limb gets it’s extra caul. (I have made me a 5 or 6 different curved cauls, all as a pair). This is much more handy and maneuverable and you have more time for setting clamps on the right places.
A good amount of twist could also be corrected in this first session, but there is still a lot of it present.
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-1-von-6.jpeg)
Pic 1: Look at the direction of the cauls, about 50° remaining twist. Lower limb is in the foreground
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-2-von-6.jpeg)
Pic 2: Another view, upper limb in foreground. Look at the hump, two clamps reduce the amount, but still a lot of character is there. Good visible, the most of the twist is near handle and fades, and much more at upper limb.
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-3-von-6.jpeg)
Pic 3: I have steamed the recurves in the night before. Here it is naked the day after, lower limb in foreground
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-4-von-6.jpeg)
Pic 4: From this perspective already looking like a bow. Upper limb is in foreground
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-5-von-6.jpeg)
Pic 5: Upper limb is at left side, you can see the back, handle and lower limb are more or less visible in side view.
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-6-von-6.jpeg)
Pic 6: Here is more dramatic pic, lower limb in foreground.
TO BE CONTINUED SOON ...
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Very, very interesting stave. Sure makes me rethink some of the osage staves I used for firewood. I’ve seen you turn out some amazing bows, and can’t wait to see if you can do it with this stave. Thanks for sharing the build with us. I know I for one will learn a lot from this one.
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Second session: Heating out the remaining twist in the upper limb with the heatgun.
This twist is mostly located at the end of the first third, so I concentrate the heat at a 3” long area. Because the stave is already near bow dimensions it shouldn’t be a great problem.
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-1-von-7.jpeg)
my index finger points at the to be heated portion on upper limb
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-2-von-7.jpeg)
Side view with a pronounced hump near the upper fade, here is the most twist concentrated. I’m aiming for reducing the hump and untwisting at the same time.
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-3-von-7.jpeg)
For comparison, this is the pic after heating. Looks not to bad.
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-4-von-7.jpeg)
This is the set up, for doing it. This pic shows already the correction. The bow is clamped in the vice (background). The big clamp is mounted on the limb with a rubber underlay at bow’s back (as it is already the final ring) and functions as a lever. On the handle of this clamp hangs my weight (brass cylinder about 10 lbs), a leather loop prevents slipping of.
Also on the handle is a second clamp, the red plastic thing – it works as an indexer. The yardstick is leaning against it and I can read the amount of movement easily. That blue thing is my stopper, it has an adjustable head with a rest for the bow limb. In this case it prevents the limb movement downwards, I want all the movement as a torsion.
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-5-von-7.jpeg)
Like pic before, another angle of view
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-6-von-7.jpeg)
Here is the result, she’s coming along. Upper limb is in foreground
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-7-von-7.jpeg)
Looking from lower downward
TO BE CONTINUED SOON …
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(-P
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Lookin good! Can’t wait.
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!
I’m loving this so far Simson. I’ve wanted to build one with you for a long time.
Bjrogg
PS this is going to be a sweet bow I can already see it
Brian, I don't know how you can see a sweeet bow, but I will do my best >:D >:D >:D
I don’t know Simson. Maybe we have the same Osage supplier? Seems like I always end up with staves nobody else wants to tackle. You have to be able to see the bow in them to coax it out of there.
PS like how you handled that twist
Bjrogg
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Nice calculative move move on that twist...Do you over correct at around 50% to allow for spring back and settling? Say move it 1 1/2" to achieve 1" ? Very interest tools...That's my rule of thumb as a starting point, was wondering your thoughts and findings...Thank you
Don
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Nice calculative move move on that twist...Do you over correct at around 50% to allow for spring back and settling? Say move it 1 1/2" to achieve 1" ? Very interest tools...That's my rule of thumb as a starting point, was wondering your thoughts and findings...Thank you
Don
Don, this is a special stave with lots of problems, probably I have to work on the same portion a second time - I don't know.
Normally it is much easier to correct minor things.
My steps are as follows (in this order):
- what bend is necessary? In one direction? As a torque? Or a combination?
- measure the amount of necessary movement
- clamp safely the bow in the vice in a way the bend could go downwards; sometimes a extra clamp is necessary to prevent bow moving
- hang on weight
- now (not before) determine an index point
- heat
- watch the movement via your index point
- let it go precise the amount of necessary movement
- stop the movement by a helper tool, such as my blue stopper
- let it cool down
> you get what you want, super exact. No extra correcting.
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I really appreciate the photos and description of your straightening processes. I normally only steam recurves in staves that are relatively straight to avoid problems with limb alignment. Thank you for showing me how “character” staves can be made into quality recurve bows. Looking forward to seeing this bow bend.
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Great series showing the thought process and then the work to carry it through :)
Del
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beautiful, thank you for sharing,, :) :) :)
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Really enjoying following Simon's masterclass (-P
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Third session: heat correction (sideway) with heatgun for string alignment.
Hard to do meaningful pics, but you can hopefully see there is still a lot of problems in this stave. Both limbs are off, looking at the handle. A short measurement (bow in vice, back up) with a cord tied on one tip, aiming over the handle middle shows a results of 8 cm off at the other tip. The amount is about 50% at lower and 50% at upper limb. At both limbs the side bends are relatively sharp and at the fades.
I begin with the lower limb.
The stave is fixed in the vice, belly down, and gets heat from belly side. To control the amount of movement a standing yardstick works perfect. I stop the process when 4 cm are achieved with my adjustable support (a tool from drywall works).
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-1-von-13.jpeg)
The lower limb (in foreground) is corrected and looks quite good, the upper limb is still off.
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-2-von-13.jpeg)
The side view shows the reflex in upper and deflex in lower limb.
Fourth session: Just the same procedure as on the lower limb now on upper limb.
The only difference is, I will parallel heat out a part of the reflex in the same session. So we need two forces, a weight for moving the front profile down (string alignment) and rubber bands pulling parallel horizontally to reduce the reflex. (I will heat the lower limb later to reduce the deflex here later (sixth session) – in the end upper and lower limb should look balanced in the side profile).
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-3-von-13.jpeg)
Here is the set up, the black plastic clamp is for the standing yardstick. The rubber straps produce a horizontally force and second horizontally laying yardstick will show the amount of deflexing.
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-4-von-13.jpeg)
The same, just another angle
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-5-von-13.jpeg)
Photo after the heat corrections shows tips and handle good in line. If this would be a straight flat bow, I would leave it. But being a recurve I will correct the little sabre in both limbs, the portions are marked with masking tape.
Fifth session: Heating out the remaining rest of the sabre in both limbs.
About 2 cm in the upper limb and about 1 cm for the lower limb, both are located midlimb. Not a great deal. Bow is clamped sideways, weight load is now 2x10 lbs. The clamp sits already in the curve of the recurve, so one weights is hanging in line with the force line of the limb. The second weight (that with the brown leather loop) is farther away from the limb and will induce a light torsion for a little additional untwisting. Yardstick is leaning against the clamp and works as my reference (read 170cm now). And yes, the sabre needs to be bend out over the long side of the rectangle cross section, it needs just a bit longer heating with a bit lower heat.
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-6-von-13.jpeg)
Upper limb, 2 cm necessary
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-7-von-13.jpeg)
Lower limb 1 cm necessary
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-8-von-13.jpeg)
The set up with the different attached weights
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-9-von-13.jpeg)
Set up, another point of view
Sixth Session: Heating in reflex (or reducing the deflex) in lower limb.
It’s off about 3”!! I will do the last bit of untwisting in the same session to get the recurves in line at the end. Set up is the same as in the fourth session.
Here is the result:
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-10-von-13.jpeg)
Front view or back, upper limb is right
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-11-von-13.jpeg)
Side view, upper limb is right
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-12-von-13.jpeg)
Lower limb is in foreground
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Buildalong-bending-and-straightening-bow-304-13-von-13.jpeg)
Lower limb is in foreground
Well, i was a bit lazy with posting here, but not in the workshop. Meanwhile the stick was in the fuming pipe for a week and is now resting another week for evaporating the damps.
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Love the concept of doing the best with what you got simson.A functional bow.Osage is such a wonderful wood [I call it rerod] lending itself to be manipulated and still be functional.No scorching either but that can be watched over closely and still get the bend needed.Always wondered why the fuming process came about.Osage naturally ages to a beautiful dark color on it's own.It is a good way to blend in scorch marks I imagine.Thanks for showing your methods.Self bows are a thing of beauty in my book and with your character bows it is exemplified.
In time around here bow building too grabbing any tool from different occupations that does the job with refinements under control gets the job done.
It would be quite a long list of tools needed for the occupation to make all kinds of self bows.
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That’s starting to look like the beautiful bow I was seeing Simson. Just a little more coaxing. Going to be a looker
Bjrogg
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This is an excellent build along with photos to match. I wondered how you were going to straighten out that piece of osage. We know this one is going to turn out A-OK.
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Goodness. This is eye opening! I'm loving getting to watch the way you are thinking through all this. This is an extremely helpful/useful buildalong, and that is going to be an amazing bow.
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I can’t believe how well you are manipulating that character stave. You have definitely convinced me that I have been to timid with the desire to work some questionable staves. Thank you for taking the time to do this build along, and explaining so well.
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Thank you very much, glad my post is helpful. I have benefited so much from this website and now it is my pleasure to be able to admit something too.
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Amazing how you turn that crooked piece of firewood into such a beautiful bow! Seriously impressed!
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This bow came from a marginal stave, but full of character (or imperfections in other words). It needed some heating and steaming sessions for corrections. In the end it is now a fine bow with a lot of character remaining, what makes the tiller looking weird from some angles. But it is well balanced, no twist in the handle while bracing or drawing. It is fumed for a week.
The fades are asymmetric at belly, due they have opposing angles at the back. Belly is flat in the bending parts and follows with valleys the mountains on the back.
The handle is upholstered with cork in portions. Black goat leather and kangaroo lacing makes a comfortable grip. First I had the idea of a horn or bone inlay for arrow pass, but rejected as the fade was very narrow and tolerates no further weakening.
A side splinter at lower fade had to be glued back with epoxi, a hemp wrapping hides that spot. The same on upper fade is just for symmetry aesthetic.
On the tips is an overlay from bone (cow), it is a bit dyed with osage soup & fuming left over.
ntn: 58½”
bh: 5¼”
mass: 569 gram
asymmetrical
max. w.: 1½”
reflex: 2½”
08”: 05,0
10”: 11,3 (+ 6,3)
12”: 16,3 (+ 5,0)
14”: 20,6 (+ 4,3)
16”: 24,8 (+ 4,2)
18”: 28,9 (+ 4,1)
20”: 33,0 (+ 4,1
22”: 37,2 (+ 4,2)
24”: 41,5 (+ 4,3)
26”: 46,0 (+ 4,5)
28”: 50,7 (+ 4,7)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/128.-Osage-character-recurve-1-von-21.jpeg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/128.-Osage-character-recurve-2-von-21.jpeg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/128.-Osage-character-recurve-3-von-21.jpeg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/128.-Osage-character-recurve-4-von-21.jpeg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/128.-Osage-character-recurve-5-von-21.jpeg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/128.-Osage-character-recurve-6-von-21.jpeg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/128.-Osage-character-recurve-7-von-21.jpeg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/128.-Osage-character-recurve-8-von-21.jpeg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/128.-Osage-character-recurve-9-von-21.jpeg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/128.-Osage-character-recurve-10-von-21.jpeg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/128.-Osage-character-recurve-11-von-21.jpeg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/128.-Osage-character-recurve-12-von-21.jpeg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/128.-Osage-character-recurve-13-von-21.jpeg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/128.-Osage-character-recurve-14-von-21.jpeg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/128.-Osage-character-recurve-15-von-21.jpeg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/128.-Osage-character-recurve-16-von-21.jpeg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/128.-Osage-character-recurve-17-von-21.jpeg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/128.-Osage-character-recurve-18-von-21.jpeg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/128.-Osage-character-recurve-19-von-21.jpeg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/128.-Osage-character-recurve-20-von-21.jpeg)
(http://primitive-bows.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/128.-Osage-character-recurve-21-von-21.jpeg)
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Just like I was imagining Simson. She is a looker and I’m sure a fine shooting bow to. Thanks so much for the build along.
Bjrogg
PS This site has given me so much to. And a lot of what it’s given has come from guys and gals like you. Thanks again and best wishes for your health.
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All I can say is WOW. Thanks for taking the time to do the build along. I’ve always been impressed with the bows you turn out, but being able to follow along on such a character build was fantastic.Thank you again.
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Staves are like people. Some are more gnarely, twisted, and challenging than others. All have character to them. When we look beyond our initial impression we can come away with something of great value and are pleased with what we’ve found. You have uncovered a thing of beauty! It was there all along…just needed a like help to be revealed. Well done.
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Simon, you truly are a master. Another beautiful how. Thanks for taking the time to show us your problem solving procedure on a tough stave.
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That’s an exceptional bow. But seeing where it started, I’m just speechless. I doubt most of us even possess the imagination or vision to see the end potential, yet alone the skill to make that come to fruition. Truly amazed.
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Outstanding! The character in that bow and the execution are top notch!
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My hat is off to you sir . Well done. What are the wraps for at the fades? Just asking.
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Very nice looking bow, Simon. Great to have watched the process of straightening up the bow. Great work!
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Wow! that is sweet! thats Really sweet!! good job!!!!!!!
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Thanks a lot for your comments!
My hat is off to you sir . Well done. What are the wraps for at the fades? Just asking.
A side splinter at lower fade had to be glued back with epoxi, a hemp wrapping hides that spot. The same on upper fade is just for symmetry aesthetic.
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Excellent result simson from a time consuming build.Full of character.
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WOW!!! - fantastic job!
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beautiful, great photos too,,
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Just came across this, haven't been here for a minute. What a great build-a-long and beautiful bow. Thank you for taking the time to put this together. So much info, had to re-read. John
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thankyou very much for sharing all this
such a beautiful bow and abundance of invaluable informations :OK
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Thanks guys,
it's a pleasure for me, you find that buildalong useful and inspiring.
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Simon, I certainly appreciate you posting your work on here. Your craftsmanship is inspiring whether you are working with a perfect stave, one such as this one that is laden with challenges, or a simple sapling.