Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: Deerhunter21 on August 28, 2021, 12:00:16 am
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Ok, I just spent 2 hours planing this shaft from a board because my mom was sleeping and that means no power tools lol. I still need to sand some parts down but I’m done for the night (maybe, I might work some more on it ;)). This is going to be a flu flu nutter for squirrel hunting.
I don’t have a spine tester so I’m comparing the flex to my other arrows. I’ll then do some bare shaft tuning, fletch if, put a head on it, then make 5 more (lol)
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It’s poplar btw
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Looking good so far, Russell. :OK
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Can't wait to see it finished
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Bare shaft tuning, some of the time it’s completely straight other times it’s too the left. It’s too weak of a spine so I’m going to cut an inch off. I made the arrow a bit long for that exact reason
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Ok, I cut an inch off and it just got worse…. I thought that cutting an inch off would stiffen the spine… does it not?? Or does nock to the left mean the spine is too stiff????
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Did you cut the self nock to allow the stiff side of the arrow to go against the bow?
There is some very good arrow info by Art Butner(artcher1) in the notebook I sent you.
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Did you cut the self nock to allow the stiff side of the arrow to go against the bow?
There is some very good arrow info by Art Butner(artcher1) in the notebook I sent you.
No i did not... Ill go ahead and do that. Is it ok even if the nock ends up with the grain?
Edit: actually by complete sheer luck i did!!!
ill go ahead and take a look at the notebook again.
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I just realized that my target is layered foam. when it hits the target, the foam will drag it with "the grain" of the foam. thats why it looked so weak when it wasnt. but now i guess bare shaft tuning is out of the question... maybe i could try one of the sides of my target??? well see...
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This is where I’m going to stop and say it’s good enough. Learn from these mistakes and do better on the next arrow. Now to taper the tip, put the nut on, and figure out how to fletch flu flu’s
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I tapered it, now I’m fire hardening the tip.
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Fire hardened the tip and put the nut on with super glue. Now to seal the arrow with some linseed oil and put the flu flu’s on
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That nutter should do it. Lookout squirrels and bunnies!!! (B)
Self nocks should be cut across the grain and not with it. Cutting it with the grain can split the arrow unless you add a spline and make it a reinforced self nock. That comes next semester. With self nocks there are only 2 sides that can go against the bow and that is along the edge grain. Find the stiffest of those 2 sides and that side goes against the bow.
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Looking good. I like your set up! Now you just have to. attract squirrels and bunnies, or have enough to hunt on the move.
I will be trying that nutter, as well1
Hawkdancer
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Finished!!!!!! The end of the arrow still goes to the left but it evens out. I’m really proud of this!!! It’s the first arrow I made from a regular piece of wood!!!!
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Pic
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Where is the balance point on the arrow, end to end?
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Pretty much right in the middle
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You may need more tip weight. Maybe wrap wire around the shaft behind the nut. Weight forward leads to better arrow flight.
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while its flying the back is wobbling left and right. would adding more tip weight fix this??? i feel like the back and right wobbling is throwing the tip off and if i am going to hunt with this arrow, i want it as consistent as i can have it. the arrow is about... oh.... 12.5 gpp if my bow is 50Lb... i dont have a specific weight for my bow. but i know its around 50-55
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Adding tip weight will reduce the effective spine of the arrow. Spine effects left and right wobble. Up and down is effected by nock point height.
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Check out BowEd's thread, FOC%, on Shooting and Hunting. FOC stands for forward of center, referring to weight balance of an arrow, basically weight forward arrows.
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ok. i think i can do the FOC thing.
What is really confusing me is why my arrow is wobbling right and left. feeling the stiffness of the arrow, it is the stiffest arrow i have. none of my weaker arrows do this. could it be that my string tracks in the middle of the handle at full draw and to the left of the handle at brace height?
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If you add tip weight you reduce the effective spine making the arrow fly like a weaker spined arrow.You can also sand the middle 1/3 of the arrow to reduce spine. I think shaft diameter also affects spine.
side to side movement is usually a spine problem.
Every string centers on the bow at full draw no matter if it is center shot or a 2" handle. Having the proper spined arrow can be shot from each well with a properly spined arrow for that bow.
...and you thought building bows was tough. ;)
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Ok… my foc is around 6%.
Are you sure I should weaken the shaft even though the nock of the arrow is tracking to the left???
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Ok... i am so confused right now.... the arrow just did a FLIP when i shot it.... like... WHAT???? the arrow that has the stiffest spine out of all my arrows is acting like the weakest..... im completely stuck! i dont know what to do! I guess ill make another one and see if that works out better? i broke the tip anyways but this is confusssssiiiinnng. wood arrows are confusssinnngggg
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any ideas why this is though? seriously. i am lost.
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When collecting natural shafting, some times you get a dud.
Does it shoot the same shooting stiff side out?