Primitive Archer

Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: RunningWolf on April 06, 2022, 06:15:54 pm

Title: Sinew Backed, Fire Hardened, Pignut Hickory
Post by: RunningWolf on April 06, 2022, 06:15:54 pm
Made a really nice Hickory Bow the other day.  This is my first sinew backed bow and also my first fire hardened one.  It shoots really sweet, virtually no hand shock.  It draws somewhere in the low 40s.  Really happy with how it turned out.
Title: Re: Sinew Backed, Fire Hardened, Pignut Hickory
Post by: RunningWolf on April 06, 2022, 06:23:59 pm
Here are some pictures from some other angles.
Title: Re: Sinew Backed, Fire Hardened, Pignut Hickory
Post by: BowEd on April 06, 2022, 08:44:32 pm
You did good I'd say.Congrats on success two times over.
Title: Re: Sinew Backed, Fire Hardened, Pignut Hickory
Post by: organic_archer on April 06, 2022, 11:37:21 pm
That’s a keeper! Nicely done!
Title: Re: Sinew Backed, Fire Hardened, Pignut Hickory
Post by: superdav95 on April 07, 2022, 12:49:45 am
That’s a great combination right there.  Heat treated Hickory with sinew.  Nicely done.  Do you plan to cover the sinew or leaving it bare.?    What method did you use for heat treatment?   
Title: Re: Sinew Backed, Fire Hardened, Pignut Hickory
Post by: Stixnstones on April 07, 2022, 10:57:53 am
Thumbs up....
Title: Re: Sinew Backed, Fire Hardened, Pignut Hickory
Post by: bjrogg on April 07, 2022, 12:45:40 pm
Thumbs up....

Maybe even 2  :OK  :OK

Bjrogg

Hope to see a full draw
Title: Re: Sinew Backed, Fire Hardened, Pignut Hickory
Post by: RunningWolf on April 07, 2022, 04:51:50 pm
Hey Superdav.  Yeah, I think I'll just leave the sinew bare.  I had a snake skin, but I used it on a different bow, so I don't know what I would use to cover it.  The method I used was the one "rediscovered by Keith Shannon" where you build a pit fire using cinder blocks and charcoal briquets for a nice controlled fire and then lay the bow over the fire clamped to a form.  At this stage, I had just shaped the bow out and barely even done a floor tiller.  I used a form that curved backset into the whole length of the bow.  You can see a picture of the bow unstrung here.  Notice how it still has a slight curve towards the back.  There were originally about 2 and a half inches of backset, but most pulled out because I'm not an expert on tillering to preserve that.

Anyway.  After I put it over the fire, I checked it every 15 minutes.  The bow was elevated about 14 inches above the coals.  There was no flame; the coals were just glowing and making a lot of heat.  After about 30 minutes, there was already quite a bit of color.  I left it there for almost 3 hours trying to maintain a constant heat, but going slowly to make sure not to over do it.  I did scorch it a little in a couple places.  That's part of the reason I wanted the sinew for insurance, but I think it probably could have survived without it because of the toughness of hickory. 

Here's a picture of what it looked like when it was finished before I took more wood off in the tillering stage.
If you're interested in making one of these, you should check out the DVD made by Keith Shannon, Thad Beckum and Billy Burger.  I think there's also a way you can order fire hardened blanks to shape out if you want to make one, but don't have access to a fire pit.
Title: Re: Sinew Backed, Fire Hardened, Pignut Hickory
Post by: superdav95 on April 08, 2022, 12:30:39 am
Runningwolf.  That’s great that you use this method too. It’s catching on I think.  I’ve made several this way or similar method as Keith Shannon.  He uses brickett charcoal coal from a bag.  I found that they don’t last long enough for me.  I use hard wood coals.  Takes a little longer but great results.  I built my pit into the ground slightly and built up the side walls with large rocks.  I’ve had good luck with hickory as you have done.  I’ve also done elm, ash, maple, hhb ironwood,  and blue beech muscle wood.  All take heat treatment well.  Iron wood is surprisingly tough and dense.  Makes very thin strong limbs but hard to find good non twisted staves.  Another method I’ve used is using a heat gun mounted approx 4-5” above the belly and scorch it that way moving every few mins.  Best of luck on future builds. Each bow gets better and better. 
Title: Re: Sinew Backed, Fire Hardened, Pignut Hickory
Post by: Pat B on April 08, 2022, 10:27:08 am
Very nice sinew backed hickory bow.  :OK
I made a sinew back hickory bow(Jay Massey's Medicine Bow) without belly tempering that depending on the R/h changes from 45# to 65# mostly because I live in the humid southeast US. Out west in dryer climate it would be an excellent combo.
Title: Re: Sinew Backed, Fire Hardened, Pignut Hickory
Post by: StickMark on April 10, 2022, 10:48:24 pm
Nice bow.
You might know this, but that is guy holding the rabbit on the main page for PA is Billy Berger, I think
Title: Re: Sinew Backed, Fire Hardened, Pignut Hickory
Post by: RunningWolf on May 15, 2022, 06:50:02 pm
I have a picture here at full draw.  I finally got around to posting.
Title: Re: Sinew Backed, Fire Hardened, Pignut Hickory
Post by: superdav95 on May 15, 2022, 10:27:10 pm
Looks great running wolf.  It may be the angle but does the top limb look a little stiffer on the outer section towards the tip?  It may be a visual thing if you are canting on full draw. Hard to tell.   Looks like a good shooter!   

Keep ‘em coming

Cheers. Dave
Title: Re: Sinew Backed, Fire Hardened, Pignut Hickory
Post by: backtowood B2W on May 16, 2022, 06:52:44 am
Nice Bow, Hickory doesn't grow here
About tiller I think like superdav95.
If the arrows tend to hit low you could maybe do some scrapes there.
Sinew and HT whitewood is a good combo  ;D
Title: Re: Sinew Backed, Fire Hardened, Pignut Hickory
Post by: Pappy on May 20, 2022, 07:36:27 am
Nice job, I would probably burn one up if I put it over a fire. :)
 Pappy
Title: Re: Sinew Backed, Fire Hardened, Pignut Hickory
Post by: bownarra on May 21, 2022, 02:59:26 pm
Well done with your bow and sinew backing job.
The trick to avoiding set is to make the limbs bend according to how they taper in width from handle to tip.
Check out the TBB books they describe in detail 'tiller logic'. I think it is in the 4th volume. Design and performance chapter.