Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: bassman211 on June 16, 2022, 02:00:45 pm
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I am shaping up the 66 inch Osage sinew backed bow from the other post. I have the top limb bending decent now, but the bottom limb's fade is so weak, so that the limb has a much straighter profile. The whole limb is bending bad at the fade. Like a bad hinge. Way to much wood has been removed. I need to repair it now , or it is going to let go right their for sure. I have added limb wedges to 3 piece take down wood bows in the past, but have never added wood to a fade to strengthen it on a 1 piece bow. Would shaping a piece of Osage in that area, and gluing it on ,and shaping properly work? I have nothing to lose now? JUST NEED OPINIONS.
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Gluing a lamination on to add thickness at the hinge will definitely increase the bending stiffness and reduce/eliminate the hinge. The big trick with that is getting it glued on good enough so that it doesn't delaminate and pop off when the bow is drawn. It might work best if you rasp the thickness down some and add a thicker patch so that the glue line is buried in towards the middle of the limb.
Mark
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Thanks Mark. I am going to do the glue up with AD-40 smooth on, and sinew wrap both fades their whole length, because they are still both to thin at present. Bit off way more than I wanted to chew.
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can you add sinew,, on the back there,,
I think the gluing at the fades is a bit scary,, are you sure you dont have enough weight to tiller,,,without doing that,,
what is your weight now,,
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Cut 2" to 4" off and retiller, leaving the fades alone until everything else is bending well.
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Just a thought here. But what about backing it with bamboo strip. You could still do a sinew layer or two on the boo back after as well. I’m in the process of this now myself with a bow actually. This would beef up your fades. I would maybe retiller to just past brace after the boo back. Then add sinew after and finish up tiller. This would get you the draw you are looking for. Best of luck with the build.
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Pat I think he is trying to get 33 inches of draw,,
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Pat, I need the length. Dave I already have one layer of sinew on the back. Brad I am going to wrap with sinew at the fades. This is his first bow, so I am doing all I can to save it, but what a mess. thanks guys.
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In that case I would get both limbs bending together then add a belly lam. The hinge is the weakest portion of the limbs so you will have to get the limbs to that weight first then add the belly lam and retiller to weight.
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Pat, I need the length. Dave I already have one layer of sinew on the back. Brad I am going to wrap with sinew at the fades. This is his first bow, so I am doing all I can to save it, but what a mess. thanks guys.
Roger that… ya only have very few options in that case. Best of luck.
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Belly lam, wood or boo back it or sinew back it.
Sinew back is the easiest to pull off. however sinew has low bend resistance and as such you will need a whole bunch to correct a fade hinge.
hinging off the fades is a major problem. Make sure to floor tiller well this will help you avoid the issue.
33" draw is no joke either. any hint of a weak spot will hinge for sure with that long a draw.
@ 66" are you going to recurve it?
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Yes it's bow fixing 101 here.Like said belly lams up into the fades will work.Evening both limbs out identical first before glue-up.
Never done it with bamboo but sounds like that would work also.
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That’s a great idea Ed! I think that could work. I’ve experimented with belly lams of boo on bows before with pretty good results. I toasted it first and flattened it out nice to get two identical pieces. Toasting it drives out the moisture well. It looks nice toasted and offers more compression strength. A little goes a long way with bamboo so your profile would still be fairly thin. I think it could work. Heck even belly lam with two identical strips of Buffalo horn might work too. Would also look cool.
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Yes there are a few good choice of materials out there.Glued on belly lams is a lot faster also than sinewing.I've never had osage chrysall on me,but that ought to be checked first also.I would not trust covering up a sanded away chrysall with an overlay.Sometimes damage is deeper than what can be seen.
All in all good luck bassman211.
Sometime I'd like for giggles to overlay yew belly lams onto a hickory.Would'nt be a self bow anymore,but still a bow.
Course heat treating does the same job also.
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Bownarra, thanks, and the rest of you fellows. I have always built bows with in my comfort zone, and seldom need to ask questions, but this bow is putting the full court press on me.
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What about heat treating the weaker fade?
I've done it successfully with hickory...
Greetz
Cord
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bambule, I tried that first. Thanks. I may end up putting a belly lam on it to make the fix, and another heavy layer of Osage.