Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Lost Oki on January 11, 2023, 05:49:45 pm
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I have a 72" by 1 inch sq piece of Red Oak. Can you make a bow out of this ??
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Certainly but the width will significantly limit the draw weight. Might be able to get a 25lb bow if Being conservative.
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If you had two of the 1" boards, you could glue them together and make a 2" wide piece...that would work much better.
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Funny you should ask! I am working on a 3/4" x 1" red oak board bow. Bend in the handle...I want 40# but...
The bow has perfect grain...straight...tip to tip.
We shall see. More to the point...I shall see.
I just wanted an easy build for my back.
The days of building a bow in 2 days are gone. I work on it in small chunks of time.
I am about to cut the nocks.
My site has stuff.
http://traditionalarchery101.com
By the way, I have made many young people's bows and light bows with those measurement...25-30#... I may end up giving this bow to my youngest daughter.
Yes, one can build a bow with those measurements but it may be light...ish. :)
Jawge
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George, what design are you using. My current experience is with 1x2.5" red oak flat bow. I was just wondering if I could use a D shape for more poundage? Anything 30 or more would work.
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Oki, I measure out the 4 inch handle...2 inches on either side of center. Then, I leave that alone while I go to floor tillering, long string tillering and then, the final tiller.
It's a flat bow.
The tiller is D section. The handle bends but not so much that it kicks.
At least that is the plan. :)
There is a build along on my site for a wider limbed and heavier bow but the concept is similar.
http://traditionalarchery101.com/boardbowbuildalong.html
Jawge
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if you sinew back it, you can get more weight,,
I made a hickory long bow with a 1x1,, I think I got about 40#,, I cut it shorter and sinewed it to see what it would do shot nice and was more weight,,
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George, followed your link, thanks it was informative and I picked up a couple of things. Just as a heads up, I retired after 21 yrs as a Safety Manager, your drill press ain't gonna make the cut with the top guard missing 8) 8) 8). I still need to finish my 2nd Red Oak bow, have tillered twice and hope to get to the bow shop today to get an idea on draw weight. Shooting for 40 at 28". Again, thanks for the link. Keep us up to date on your 1" bow build.
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Brad, I don't have any sinew, but I do have some rawhide. It's supposed to be whitetail and size is about right. Would that help with draw weight? If so, would tight bond III work to glue it down?
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Gotcha, Oki. LOL That drill press is older than I am and I am 74. I don't think the top guard is missing. I am not sure it ever existed.
I will chime in on your question. No, weight gain and probably yes to T3. Nut I've used T2 for rawhide but not T3. T is waterproof T2 is wa
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George, welcome to the 74th year. Let me change the subject just a little. 2nd red oak bow. When I string it I get 7.0 inches between handle and string. If I measure 12" from center left I get 7.25 inches on left limb and 7.5 inches on right. If I drop back to 8" from center I get the same 1/4" difference. When I use the tillering tool (if I am doing it right, built my own off of directions I got off u-tube) I am still marking both limbs the same. With that said Have I not tillered it enough or ??? see attached pic. Left limb looks to me like I need more wood taken off.
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Thank you. I always feel that the best brace height is the lowest at which the bow shoots well. For me that is 7-75 in. to the back of the handle. I a not saying your bow is over braced I. Up to you.
The tiller looks good at brace. 1/4 inch difference is not going to matter much.
Full draw is what counts though. If you have a full draw photo we could assess tiller better.
Is that bottom limb shorter than the top?
Jawge
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Shorter limb, you nailed it. I kept thinking something just did not look right. I confirmed center of bow. measured fades from center...right fade is 3/4" longer than left fade. Should I equalize or ?
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No, been there done that. Sometimes intentionally ...sometimes not.
I resist changing a bow brought to full draw.
Enjoy.
Jawge
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no rawhide wont increase weight,,
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Strung and shot the bow this morning using 31" 500 weight arrows with 125 grain field tips. Definitely a heavier draw weight that bow #1. Pic is bow #2 at full draw (28"), longer fade/handle (by approx 13/16") is top limb. Bow length is 62 N to N.
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Very nice tiller, Oki. Jawge
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congrats :)
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Thank you gentlemen. Now to finish handle, shoot, then finish and shoot.
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Looks good to me, nice job. :)
Pappy
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Finished out the bow using Ebony stain and sealer with a water based poly for top coat. Then wrapped the handle in a white deer skin I have on hand.
I had left the bow in the shop for several days without any sealer, humidity went up to 65% and I lost draw weight. Using heat gun at 3" from bow I got back a few lbs but ended up with 32 lbs.. Not sure what to do from here. Is it possible to add draw weight (searched but could not find any info) ? Could I add to belly, (back has burlap glued down). I have been trying to get to 40 lbs but so far #1 bow is 35 and #2 is 32 lbs (both are Red Oak). I am new at this so I need all the help I can get. I have Oak, Cherry, Walnut on hand.
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as I said earlier,,, sinew will add more weight,, cut the bow to 58 inches,, apply two good layers of sinew and you will hit your 40# easy,,
I have applied sinew to shot in bows,, with good results,, not the first option, but is a doable process,,
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can I add sinew over the burlap or do I have to remove?
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Start another one, Oki. New bowyers making underweight bows is how new bowyers learn.
14 was my magic number.
Also, wider is better...1 3/8" to 1.5" will get a little more weight.
Jawge
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great advice from Jawge,,
you would have to remove burlap from back,, and prep back by sanding and cleaning,,
it would probably be quicker to make a new bow,, but if you want to learn about sinew,, it would be a great way to learn,,
as far as making bows underweight,,, you may not be getting it strung when it is heavy enough to tiller it even and still hit your weight,,
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Well, I do have another 1x6 that I could get at least one bow out of. I did work on the 1"x1", do not have a scale yet but its well below what the other two are, used a D shape.
Looking back ya'll are right, should be tillering before I have been. Thanks again for the feedback.