Primitive Archer

Welcome to PA. First thing is there are no stupid questions here. Only unasked questions are stupid.
 When I build a bow I make it symmetrical, equal length from the center of the handle to each limb tip. I make my handles 4" long with 2" each side of the center. For the arrow pass I put my middle finger on the center of the handle and grip it. The arrow pass is at the top of my hand. Brain tanned leather makes a very comfortable handle. You can do as you said with a 1" wide and wrap it around the handle area tucking each end under the wrap. If you wrap it tight enough you may not need to glue it but you can use contact cement on the handle area and on the back side of the 1" strip but be careful when you wrap it because when the 2 glue surfaces touch they will be stuck. Also remember to wrap the handle the direction your fingers point or the wrap can be loosened just by gripping it.
 I like to use a Floppy rest(the idea of Mickey Lotz) at my arrows pass to protect my hand and to quiet the arrow. Below is how I make a Floppy rest...

First off al, thank you for having me in this group! While i shoot bows since a long time, i am new to primitive, so please forgive all my "stupid" question...
I am building a extremly simple stick bow. The bow will be 60 inch long. No shelf..., but i want to wrap the "handle", so that also the arrow will make less noice... How do i locate the handle (where would the arrow lay) from the center of the bow? On my longbow with a shelf, the shelf is actually 2 inch above center(68 inch bow)?
I have some braintanned springbok hide, was thinking of cutting a 1 inch wide piece and wrap it, but how?
I really would appreciate all your imput!

Yes I still feel very blessed.

I hope my grandchildren do when they are my age.

Thank to everyone who makes that possible

Bjrogg

show of hands how many of us have a project started and it's stalled out because you have no idea what's next.

Man, I thought it was just me!

As for the quiver:  Looks great.  I can see the utility of the open-at-the-side quivers, but I've never used one because I'm afraid that it would always be collecting leaves, pine needles, and assorted gunk as I burrow through the brush trying to get closer to prey.

I do use a side quiver, but mine is enclosed.  I just pull an arrow out the back when I need one.  Not as efficient as this design.

    This test has been conducted countless times. Dry fire speed is dry fire. Lighter arrows may not fly as far but they will always come out of the bow faster. Lighter arrows are less forgiving and require more tuning.