Recent Posts

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Bows / Re: Tillering advice: This thing is kinkier than...
« Last post by Pat B on Today at 12:52:46 pm »
Give it plenty of time to loose the added weight. The snake skin is like a vapor barrier so the moisture has to go into the wood then dissipate  from there.
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Bows / Re: Where to lose 2 or 3#
« Last post by Pat B on Today at 12:49:26 pm »
Have you shot the bow? If not put 100 arrows through it and recheck the weight. You could also scrape the sides a little to reduce weight.
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Primitive Archery Clubs / Re: south carolina anyone?
« Last post by mullet on Today at 11:27:12 am »
 I sent you a message. Just text me, the number is in the message.
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Muzzleloaders / Re: 2026 Alabama Kentucky rifle show
« Last post by Eric Krewson on Today at 11:26:54 am »
Had a great time at the show yesterday, I was surprised how may folk came up to me, introduced themselves and told me they followed my posts on the various M/L sites. I like to answer beginners questions complete with pictures, apparently a lot of people like these posts.

There were some amazing collections of original longrifles, usually they centered around one builders work. These men were amazing gun builders producing engraved and carved works of art.

And then there were the Kiblers; one vender had a huge display of every model kit that Kibler makes all completely assembled and finished to perfection. The new Hawken was spectacular as were the fowlers. I shouldered the new Hawken in .58, it fit me like a dream and balance perfectly. I found the same to be true of the fowlers in 20 and 16 ga, light and were point on as soon as I shouldered them.

If I was younger and didn't already have a gun safe full of longrifles and fowlers I would have to have one. Unfortunately old age has gotten the best of me and I don't hunt and shoot near as much as I once did so buying one wouldn't be a wise choice. None of my kids or grandkids have any interest in the rifles that I have built, they will probably end up in a yard sale some day, no need to add another one to the pile.

I have a friend from Huntsville who is somewhat addicted to putting these kits together, he has done 5 or 6 of the kits. He had a new Hawken that he had completed on his table yesterday, he had it priced at $2100, it sold quickly. There is a fairly long waiting list for the new Hawken kits from Kibler because it is so popular and has just come out, it is also their first percussion model, all of the other models are flint. These kits cost between $1300 $1800 depending on the wood upgrades (plain or fancy), patchbox and the German silver inlay additions.

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Flintknapping / Re: A little fun with mushrooms
« Last post by mullet on Today at 11:25:10 am »
I have to go along with JW, I like them all!
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Bows / Re: Where to lose 2 or 3#
« Last post by simk on Today at 11:23:10 am »
good looking bow. you could scrape a little here - or do as arvin said. soften the inners a little.
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Flintknapping / Re: Silver Springs knap in
« Last post by mullet on Today at 11:21:36 am »
 Brian, plenty of Motels in Ocala and the Silver Springs Park is open. The last time I went it was free parking and admission. There are plenty of food vendors along with a lot of people selling rock and knapping tools. There is plenty to keep your wife occupied, I know my wife enjoyed going every year. It is an eight hour drive for me, now.
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HowTo's and Build-a-longs / Re: Lumber Red Cedar and Sinew build along
« Last post by mullet on Today at 11:14:16 am »
 I have never built a sinew backed Cedar bow but have made several from a stave. They will make a fast shooting bow. I gave a Bamboo Backed Cedar board bow to an ex, son in law that Brian Melton had made many years ago and it was a great shooting bow.
Thanks for the build along it's a good one.
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Bows / Re: Where to lose 2 or 3#
« Last post by Jim Davis on Today at 11:04:32 am »
I bet by the time you sand it down and finish it it will be darn close to your goal.

+1
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Thank you for the warm welcome! This is one serious rabbit hole.

I've had my core and horn strips ready for weeks now. They were both made perfectly flat, then grooved 2 mm (not matching) and sized for several days with thin hide glue (220 bloom).

I'm pretty much physically ready to do the horn/wood glue up but I've totally stalled. I'm running into a couple roadblocks. Mainly around work time with the glue up. My problem is I don't have access to my shop or a space that I can heat easily. I am planning on adding a light percentage of fish glue to my mixture to extend working time slightly but I haven't even settled on a wrapping method yet.

I as going to do either c clamps or the rope method but without the tencik. Anyways, I figured there's no rush. I've also gotten sidetracked with projects. I'll share these soon.

I'll post some of the progress pics I have so far today.

I've really enjoyed seeing you folks projects and the experiments with horn bows, they are beautiful. Thanks for the input. I'll reach out likely with some questions.
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