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Around the Campfire / Re: Pawpaw
« Last post by JW_Halverson on Today at 12:31:35 am »
Pawpaws and persimmons, two native fruits I'd love to try!
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Bows / Re: Ash Reflex Deflex underway
« Last post by sleek on Today at 12:03:28 am »
Ash makes an ok bow. I'd never say its great in any way. But, thays from a guy who only made a few bows of one type of mystery ash. Looking at the specific gravity of ash, the best ash looks like it would be white ash, if you can find a dense stave, as it can get as dense as osage. But elm, now thats a different subject. Elm has an interlocking grain that makes it very difficult to brake and is strong in compression. Heat treat will greatly improve elm as well. Red elm is the exception, it stinks as a bow wood. Ramen noodles would do better. The compression strength on red elm is absent. Rock elm can be so good its on par with some of the medium density osages. Wych Elm is a lesser wood than Rock Wlm but it just needs to be made wider to compensate and you will have a very good bow.
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Bows / Re: Looking for a 400 yard shot
« Last post by JW_Halverson on September 17, 2025, 11:48:27 pm »
I've been working on flight arrows to try and get the 400yards, only 20" arrows for a 23" draw.
Dunno if this video I made will be of interest?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YNa585HBnYg
Del

I checked on the Alaska Frontier Archery website for their Forgewood arrow shafting, but it appears nothing has been updated since 2018 (eons in internet years). I wonder if they are still producing Forgewood shafts?
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Shooting and Hunting / Re: My Version of the side quiver
« Last post by JW_Halverson on September 17, 2025, 11:40:52 pm »
I cannot think of a reason why it would not!
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I just wanted to take a moment to thank everyone here at Primitive Archer. Over the years, this forum and magazine have not only taught me about bows, arrows, and the craft, but also reminded me of the value of community and tradition.

Reading the posts, learning from the masters, and trading ideas (and sometimes gear!) has been such a meaningful part of my journey. Even though the forum may be shutting down, the spirit of Primitive Archer will never fade.

I hope we can all find ways to stay connected, whether through other platforms or by simply carrying forward the knowledge we’ve shared here. The friendships, the stories, and the wisdom will always remain.

Thank you to everyone who has contributed. You’ve made a real difference.

It's a great community and in the last 17 years I have made some great friendships with some absolutely amazing people around the world.
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Bows / Re: 2025 Junior Bow Trade
« Last post by Aaron1726 on September 17, 2025, 09:52:13 pm »
Looking good to me, that was a lot of bends to straighten.  Hope tillering goes well this weekend.

I have mine still a couple lbs heavy, but been working on sanding it all smooth, so hoping that will get the last little bit and then I can finish it up this week or next.
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English Warbow / Re: My First Steps into English Warbows
« Last post by sleek on September 17, 2025, 09:46:59 pm »
I personally know a world record holding lady who pulls 70 pound bows repeatedly in competition. Im sure she has drawn heavier weights, but I dont know how much. Out of curiosity, how tall are you? Natural leverage helps.
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English Warbow / Re: My First Steps into English Warbows
« Last post by Hamish on September 17, 2025, 09:30:05 pm »
Hi Helen, It is possible for some women to draw heavy bows. I remember seeing old black and white photos of a Chinese lady shooting a horn/sinew composite bow which was stated at being over 100lbs.

I would start up low and increase weight only when you are capable and confident shooting your current heavy bow, for several repetitions. Go too fast, too soon, and most people will start to get injuries. Think of it more like gymnastics where it's not just completing a maneuver, but how well you do it that counts.  Strength is not built by trying for max efforts, but by training and mastering a manageable weight. Max efforts are for testing and demonstrating the strength that you have already built. I wish I had learnt that much earlier in life.
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Bows / Re: Tips for Improving Arrow Flight – What Works for You?
« Last post by Pappy on September 17, 2025, 08:21:46 pm »
Both what Pat and Eric said is how I go about tuning my arrows, as you said it works for and fun to boot, welcome to PA. Pappy
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Around the Campfire / Re: Pawpaw
« Last post by Muskyman on September 17, 2025, 07:24:18 pm »
I read flies, ants and beetles. Also read you need 2 completely different trees in order for them to pollinate. I’m not sure but I’m guessing it’s 2 trees that are from different plants and not from the same root system. Just stuff I have read online, for what it’s worth.
 On another note, I went out into the woods behind my house because I was hearing someone running a chainsaw. As I was walking around out there I started seeing pawpaw trees all over the place.
I collected 4 fruits and left. I been living here for 30 plus years and never knew they were out there.. Funny what you see when you look around.

Pat B
Here’s some stuff I found online
Pawpaw flowers are pollinated by various flies, beetles, and other crawling insects attracted to their slightly sweet scent, which can be confused with rotting meat. Bees are not effective pawpaw pollinators. Since pawpaw trees are not self-fertile and require cross-pollination between genetically different trees for fruit production, hand-pollination with a soft brush or cotton swab is a common practice to ensure fruit set, especially for growers.
Pawpaw Pollinators
Flies: Various types of flies, including houseflies and blowflies, are attracted to the flowers and can help spread pollen.
Beetles: Different beetle species also play a role as natural pollinators for pawpaw trees.
Other Insects: Other small insects that are drawn to the flower's scent contribute to the pollination process.
Why Pollination is Challenging
Protogyny: Pawpaw flowers are protogynous, meaning the female and male parts of the flower mature at different times. Flowers first act as female and then later become male, requiring pollen from a different tree.
Ineffective Natural Pollinators: While flies and beetles pollinate pawpaw trees, they are generally inefficient at it.
How to Hand-Pollinate Pawpaws
Identify Flower Stages: You need to collect pollen from a male flower (which is dark-colored and has a swollen stigma) and transfer it to a female flower (which is green and has a small opening) on a different, genetically distinct tree.
Collect Pollen: Use a soft, flexible brush or cotton swab to collect pollen from the mature male flower.
Transfer Pollen: Gently swirl the brush inside the receptive stigma of the female flower, ensuring it is coated thoroughly with pollen.
Tips for Success
Multiple Trees: You must have at least two genetically different pawpaw trees for successful cross-pollination.
Warm Weather: Pollination is more effective during warm, calm, shirtsleeve weather.
Patience: Hand-pollination requires patience, but it's a relatively simple technique to improve your chances of getting fruit.
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