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Bows / Re: Preparing horse sinew for drying
« Last post by superdav95 on February 17, 2026, 05:34:58 pm »
Ya my moose tendons looked similar.  I would not go crazy cause you will just pound them anyway when dry.  The casing will come off fine.  Mine were not bad with the moose leg tendon.  Get as much off as you can and then dry them.  You will pound them them wash and degrease them anyway.   Get as much of the fat off now as you can.   Good score. 
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Bows / Re: Is this a suitable way to attach siyah?
« Last post by jameswoodmot on February 17, 2026, 04:13:58 pm »
Cut the splices today and made a groover that’s better than a hacksaw blade.

I want to sinew it now! I’ve got the bamboo cut though
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Bows / Re: Preparing horse sinew for drying
« Last post by jameswoodmot on February 17, 2026, 04:11:16 pm »
Longest are 16” or so

You can see how much membrane is on them. Maybe I’m better off freezing them then drying as I need them?
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Bows / Preparing horse sinew for drying
« Last post by jameswoodmot on February 17, 2026, 04:08:23 pm »
Thought I’d put this one here as it might get more views

After my recent foray into sinewing I realised I want more sinew, but am not a hunter and do t know any.

But I am a farrier, so I phoned the knacker man (what animal euthanasia man is called in England) and asked for some legs. We used to get them from him for dissections as apprentices and for competition practice.

I’ve seen reference to horse sinew being used but can’t find anything online.

They’ve got a lot of membrane attached, I’ve “fleshed” as much as I can but the damn things are slippery as hell and the membrane is patchy and won’t come off in a nice sheet. How much of this needs to come off before drying and will be be a problem either for storage or for later processing?

Anyone dealt with horse tendons before or used them on bows?

I’ll put pics in comments below

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Bows / Re: an actual draw force curve
« Last post by Badger on February 17, 2026, 02:21:47 pm »
It is usually expressed as stored energy per draw force (sepdf). I see what you are talking about now. You are 120% of a straight longbow, that makes sense, just not what I am used to seeing. At 10 grains per pound I would expect between 184 to 186 from that bow which is excellent. A very well made straight longbow with a straight profile will usually hit about 167 to 170.
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Bows / Re: an actual draw force curve
« Last post by superdav95 on February 17, 2026, 02:20:27 pm »
Doesn’t that just mean that you have better early draw weight then typical longbow?   That’s a good thing. 
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Bows / Re: an actual draw force curve
« Last post by simk on February 17, 2026, 01:46:36 pm »
Badger, I have not written that excel sheet and only understand Kinetic Energy and Dynamic Efficiency here. But the 99.9 you see must something different than "energy storage factor". This Energy storage factor to my undertstanding is the comparison to a linear straight longbow curve. In this case it must be above 100% because the curve has that hump and no stacking.

but this this is now leading me to the following question....

Please:

How do we draw the curve of that hypothetic linear comparison bow? It ends at 50@28. But where do we start it? What is the drawweight at 10" of draw? Why?




 
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Bows / Re: an actual draw force curve
« Last post by superdav95 on February 17, 2026, 01:03:04 pm »
Nice curves on the bow.  Draw curve looks smooth
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Bows / Re: Hold my hand when I sinew my first bow
« Last post by superdav95 on February 17, 2026, 12:52:39 pm »
Looks great!  Give it a week or so and you’ll have a better idea what you need to do. 
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Bows / Re: an actual draw force curve
« Last post by Selfbowman on February 17, 2026, 12:50:22 pm »
Looks like a great force draw to me.
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