Recent Posts

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11
Arrows / Re: Quiver, by request
« Last post by Robert Pougnier on Today at 11:26:50 am »
Here are some photos of a couple of woven quivers.

The first is made of umbrella sedge (papyrus sp.) harvested in south carolina. 25 inches long by 3.5 inches in diameter. Stiffened with a length of meadowsweet. Comfortably holds a dozen arrows.

The second is made of black ash harvested in vermont. The weavers were split in half which make them pretty smooth.  24" by 4 an 1/4. Holds 18+ arrows.

That's just beautiful in the way something very simple and plain can be. I'd love to sit down with you over a weekend and make a few with you just for the experience!

That would be awesome, I rarely get to make things with other folks! Depending on the materials used they can be very time consuming. They can also be done a lot nicer than these two were.
12
Primitive Skills / Re: Life is good
« Last post by GlennM on Today at 10:41:19 am »
Happy Thanksgiving to you Pappy, Miss Joanie, and the rest of the Twin Oaks Crew.  Bad weather is rolling in for later in the week in Western NY.  Lots of snow off the lake.  Not sure how much hunting we will get in.
13
Bows / Re: Fire Hardening
« Last post by Eric Krewson on Today at 10:31:45 am »
Full length toasting but not like putting the bow over a fire pit, I refine the tiller after toasting.

I darkened out the lighter spots after I took the picture, after the final tiller some of the darker areas only showed a hint of toasting.

I had so much osage back when I was making bows (still do, I live in osage country) that I didn't worry abut ruining a stave which I never did by toasting a sluggish bow.




14
Bows / Re: Osage Selfbow
« Last post by Bob Barnes on Today at 10:16:18 am »
Thanks JW,
Bob, this bow is actually out of a different tree than those second- string staves. I was ready for a break from the challenging ones. This stave took very little heat corrections, had decent ring ratio, and very few small knots. That’s why I decided to expand my knowledge and try flipping the tips. I’m very happy with the way it turned out.
I shot it 50 or 60 times here and there, as much as my hand would take, and seemed to be pretty dead in the hand and smooth. But I didn’t trust my release much, so I took it over to a friends and had him shoot it, and he thought it shoot and felt great to.

My memory isn't what it used to be...sorry.  I went back and reread your post on the LW...  :OK  I'm now looking forward to seeing some of the 2nd string bows as you finish them.   :BB  I hope your surgery goes well and that your hand heals quickly.
15
Bows / Re: Hopefully Worth the Effort
« Last post by Pappy on Today at 09:36:56 am »
Nice job, I see no reason that won't work as long as you keep it from bending in the handle. Nice approach. :)
 Pappy
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Bows / Re: Fire Hardening
« Last post by Chumash on Today at 07:51:54 am »
In my opinion, fire hardening and heat treating are the same thing, just the intensity is different.

When wood is formed by using dry heat, the same thing happens in the cells as if the wood is just exposed to heat...
18
Bows / Re: Top Nocks
« Last post by Tuomo on Today at 03:01:03 am »
I make side grooves every time. I think they look better aesthetically, but the more important reason is durability. With only a top groove, the nock overlay can split—and that has happened to me too many times. So a long, shallow nock overlay with side grooves is my choice.

Of course, for flight bows—where speed matters—I use only a top nock or other mass optimized solution.
19
Arrows / Re: arrow spine
« Last post by Tuomo on Today at 02:54:39 am »
A cut-in window has no effect on the optimal spine of the arrow. You can verify this with a bare-shaft test if you don’t believe it. However, the cut-in window does make arrows less sensitive to spine variation. With a cut-in window, tuning and shooting become easier because the arrows are less affected by spine variation, release inconsistencies, or other tuning issues. The wider the handle, the more sensitive everything becomes.

My point is that if the optimal static spine is, for example, 42#, it remains the same regardless of the handle width. But with a wide-handle bow, a 44# bare-shaft arrow may fly to the left (for a right-handed shooter), while with a cut-in window the same arrow may still fly straight.

Regarding the “correct” spine, it’s more of a statistical issue. I can shoot accurately with normal, fletched arrows even when the spine variation within the set is 10–15#. But arrows that don’t have the optimal spine will occasionally fly farther left or right. Over the long term, statistically, the arrows with the correct spine will land in the center most consistently. Again, it comes down to sensitivity to various factors (spine, bow, archer, etc.).
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Bows / Re: Hopefully Worth the Effort
« Last post by sleek on November 23, 2025, 11:32:14 pm »
That... is interesting. I an very curious how it will turn out. I haven't seen that approach before. Points for uniqueness.
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