Author Topic: Moose hides to raw hides  (Read 5158 times)

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Offline Wolf Watcher

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Moose hides to raw hides
« on: February 13, 2015, 02:08:33 pm »
Am embarrassed to admit that I need help with making raw hide for drum tops out a moose that was given to me by the Game and fish.  The hide is in four quarters and is salted.  Was thinking I could put a couple of pieces in the creek as it is thawed and open.  Any information that will get me started would be appreciated!  Thanks for the help!  Joe
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Offline Jodocus

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Re: Moose hides to raw hides
« Reply #1 on: February 13, 2015, 02:57:25 pm »
I never done it with elk, but many times with roedeer. I hope this will carry over.

Four quarters is not ideal, since a perfect drumhead is cut from the middle of the skin, so it's halved by the center of the back ( I hope I am understandable). But it will work with quarters.

cut as much of the skin as you need. If the flesh side is not clean, it's a good moment to scrape it clean. dry Skin can be sanded. Only take as much as you need, since the skin will become ugly and smelly if you thaw-freeze or wet-dry it too often.

Generally, I'd rather keep the skins dried than frozen.

I guess hair is still on the skin? Make a lie from hardwood ashes. about 5 water to 1 ashes. Soak the hide for half a day. Then scrape and tear the hair off. This is messy, best to do it outside. The hair is great for the soil if you have a garden.

Wash the hide with plenty water. Put it on the drum hair side out.
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Offline Outbackbob48

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Re: Moose hides to raw hides
« Reply #2 on: February 13, 2015, 03:24:23 pm »
Joe, when I do deer hides to rawhide. I first flesh the hide on a beam , next is soak in a buck until hair slips real easy, this can be ashes and water(lye) or plain water. Hair should come off real easy then i go over flesh side again and remove remaining membrane, stretch fairly tight in a frame and let dry. clear as mud. :o Bob

Offline Wolf Watcher

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Re: Moose hides to raw hides
« Reply #3 on: February 14, 2015, 09:55:31 am »
My wife and I came home one day to find a note on the door from our local game warden that said to look in the shop.  Well, hanging on my tractor bucket was four large quarters of a bull moose.  The bull had been injured and the warden had to shoot it and he gave the carcass to me.  I skinned the quarters and salted them down like the elk hides I took to Pappy.  It looks like I won't make it to the Classic this year so I thought I would try to make some raw hide.  I can buy raw hide from different animals from Montana Leather in Billings, but it is expensive and I end up with lots of scraps. 
Jodocus:  Thanks for the information. I have plenty of ashes, just no hardwood ashes.  The quarters are very large so hoping to make a some large drums if I can ever get them made into raw hide.  The skins are heavily salted and may be frozen as they have been laying on the shop floor. 
Bob: The hides are stiff as a board from the salt so do I need to soak the hides in water to soften them up before fleshing on a beam and if so is the creek water ok? I don't have anything besides my horse trough big enough to soak each hide.  Thanks for the help! Joe
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Offline Outbackbob48

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Re: Moose hides to raw hides
« Reply #4 on: February 14, 2015, 12:03:07 pm »
Joe, sorry to hear ya can't make the classic :(. Creek water will be fine to rehydrate also hair will slip in just water especially if it warms up some, If you warm the water up hair will slip but can get kinda stinky quick. Good luck with your project and enjoy some nice tender moose roast for dinner. Bob
« Last Edit: February 15, 2015, 01:09:01 pm by Outbackbob48 »

Offline nclonghunter

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Re: Moose hides to raw hides
« Reply #5 on: February 15, 2015, 11:15:26 am »
Moose hides are large so I think you can work one quarter to see if your results give you what you want. I also suspect the quarters will vary in thickness from on each to the other, so for drums you want to try and cut from an equal thickness as much as possible. Not sure what you plan on using for the drum body, but that can be a challenge also if you plan on bending wood into a hoop. The quarter you choose will need the salt removed. Soaking it in many changes of water will work for that, but having a moving water source is good, such as the creek you mentioned. As Bob said, if you leave the hide in water long enough the hair will slip and it will not require neutraling the wood ash or agricultural lime after the hair is removed. When using ash or lime it changes the ph in the hide and makes it swell and can get a soft cheese like texture and the hair is easily scraped off. If you use that method you can also scrape the hair side epidermis layer off, which will make the hide thinner. This method is used for brain tanning hides. Again, if you use ash or lime you will need to bring the ph back to normal and you can use a vinegar and water solution to neutralize it. Your hide should be really clean now, having the hair and meat tissues cleaned off leaving you with raw hide. You can stretch it and let it dry, then sand it to thin and smooth it more or if you have your hoop ready you can put it onto the drum then. It is a process that sounds harder than it is so give it a try. Just make sure you check the hide often once it is in the water or lime to see when the hair slips. If you let it go too long the hide can actually fall apart or decompose. Good Luck!
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Offline Wolf Watcher

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Re: Moose hides to raw hides
« Reply #6 on: February 15, 2015, 12:13:28 pm »
Thanks NC for the information.  I have been making drums and flutes for a long time just only from raw hide I bought.  Am hoping to make a large two faced drum so if I can get two different thicknesses the drum will have two different tones.  The neck area on this bull is very thick skin so will probably need to thin it some.  The quarters are large so am planning on just trying one to learn how!  We have some old juniper fence posts around this country and that is what I will use for the drum barrel. We are having a snow storm today and the temperature has dropped, but the creek is still open.  There is no heat in the shop where I have the hides so maybe should wait for warmer weather!  I am too dumb to be able to post pictures witch my PA brothers and sisters should be thankful for or I would show you just how big these hide pieces really are!  Thanks again!  Joe
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Offline Outbackbob48

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Re: Moose hides to raw hides
« Reply #7 on: February 15, 2015, 01:07:40 pm »
Joe, Nc got it covered could not of said it better than that. -14 here today an a nasty breeze so I can understand waiting for a warm up :o ;D  Joe, the wind died down for a moment an I thought I could hear the drums. Stay warm . Bob
« Last Edit: February 15, 2015, 01:12:25 pm by Outbackbob48 »