Author Topic: Question on Black Locust (Read 8772 times)

George Tsoukalas · « **Reply #15 on:** April 04, 2007, 09:33:11 pm »

I prefer the taper you described and laid out. When you are bringing the tiller in and need to remove wood from the width you can do that. Jawge

DanaM · « **Reply #16 on:** April 05, 2007, 05:52:44 am »

Thanks Hillbilly for the explanation, I think I might try that on hickory backed BC I'm workin on.

DanaM

Pappy · « **Reply #17 on:** April 05, 2007, 06:11:42 am »

Thanks Jawge,That's what I will do.
Pappy

snedeker · « **Reply #18 on:** April 05, 2007, 10:26:49 am »

I have one BL self bow that is 63" long, 1 3/8 wide at the fades,out to a little past mid limb, and tapering to 1/2 " 4" from tip and to 7/16 at nocks that pulls 58# at 27" and took no set. That was from a stave. I ihave had some boards with much less power.

Dave

Pappy · « **Reply #19 on:** April 09, 2007, 07:22:42 am »

Didn't get a chance to work on it this weekend,maybe this week.I will keep yall updated.

Pappy

D. Tiller · « **Reply #20 on:** April 10, 2007, 12:05:53 am »

Go for a sinew backed 36" long Huppa designed bow. Get rid of the sapwood and dont worry about violating the grain on the back the sinew will compensate. Billy and Juniper Junkie know more about the design than I do. But I'm making one with the BL stave I have had seasoning for 3 or 4 years now. The bouquet on the BL is just perfect now. Well aged wood is like well aged wine!

Now if I could just be patient enough with the rest of the woods I pick up!

David T

duffontap · « **Reply #21 on:** April 10, 2007, 02:10:53 am »

I'm reading with interest Pappy. There is nothing like BL for controversy. I'm coming into a large supply and I wonder if I even want to store it? Let us know.

J. D. Duff

PS, have you read 'Black Locust, Trash or Treasure' in Primitive Archer? Back issue--can't remember which one.

Pappy · « **Reply #22 on:** April 10, 2007, 06:16:00 am »

I feel the same way JD,they either love it or hate it.I am going to give it a try.I think
66 long 1 78/ at fades tapered to 3/8 at the tips and see what happens.I have access to
lots of it also ,just never fooled with it.I want to see what it dose.Gary Davis made one last year and told me it made a great bow he used the design I talked about first.1 7/8 to mid limb and then taper to the tips.

Pappy

Michael C. · « **Reply #23 on:** October 02, 2009, 01:53:29 pm »

Hey Pappy did you ever get around to finishing this one? I was interested in seeing it or hearing how it turned out. Personnally I like BL because it has a great dark honeycomb color to it and if you get it right it makes a nice shooter. It also helps that it grows everywhere where I am at, so free is great.

dogleg · « **Reply #24 on:** October 09, 2009, 10:51:52 am »

Excellent thread, guys. BL is the main wood that I have close at hand for staves, and this has given much info. on it. Glad to hear northern Locust seams a bit better, as I'm from north central Wisconsin. If I can make the local stuff behave, it'll probably be my main stavewood. Now to go cut some!

dogleg

richpierce · « **Reply #25 on:** October 09, 2009, 06:29:08 pm »

If they are wide, they tend to get quite thin as it is a strong wood. And when they get thin and flat and wide, that's where I worry about hinges and chrysals entering the picture. I think 1 and 5/8" is best as Hillbilly suggested but am going to make a narrower one this winter.

Primitive Archer