Author Topic: Harvesting yew  (Read 10980 times)

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Offline Oberon

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Harvesting yew
« on: April 09, 2010, 08:45:58 pm »
  Greetings , I live in Oregon and have several yew trees  on my property two of them quite large.  Planning on harvesting at least two of them, would appreciate any advice on the process like splitting out the staves , like dimensions for long bows length and thickness  curing time and so forth.   Any information would be greatly appreciated.
  These trees are at about 1200 to 1300 foot elevation.

Aalmaron

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Re: Harvesting yew
« Reply #1 on: May 01, 2010, 11:37:53 am »
what areas in oregon are good for finding yew?

I recently split my first walnut tree and it went really well. it had a 9 foot straight section, so i cut that out, then used a wedge and a splitting maul on the end while it was laying down. i then chased the split with the maul. make sure its centered. if the split twists or runs off, then the grain wasn't very good. then i split those halves again to make quarters. i had an 8 inch tree so this is were i ended to let it dry.

Offline snag

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Re: Harvesting yew
« Reply #2 on: July 22, 2010, 07:06:00 pm »
Oberon, I have heard that the best yew is found under large old growth. With the diminished sunlight it grows slow and straight with few knots.
Is. 49:2 ....He made me a polished arrow and concealed me in His quiver.

Offline bow-toxo

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Re: Harvesting yew
« Reply #3 on: July 22, 2010, 09:21:45 pm »
  Greetings , I live in Oregon and have several yew trees  on my property two of them quite large.  Planning on harvesting at least two of them, would appreciate any advice on the process like splitting out the staves , like dimensions for long bows length and thickness  curing time and so forth.   Any information would be greatly appreciated.
  These trees are at about 1200 to 1300 foot elevation.
  Mediaeval practice was to cut in winter when the sap is down to make the best bow.The bole log should be split with a mallet and a pair of iron or oak wedges to end up with staves three fingers square and 7 feet long. Paint the ends to prevent checking [important !]and leave in an unheated room to season for one to five years.
                                                                     Erik

Offline snag

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Re: Harvesting yew
« Reply #4 on: August 06, 2010, 08:35:32 pm »
I've also read that the old-timers would turn the stave or log once in awhile to disperse the sap evenly throughout the piece of wood.
Is. 49:2 ....He made me a polished arrow and concealed me in His quiver.

Offline wundabred

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Re: Harvesting yew
« Reply #5 on: August 20, 2010, 11:41:10 am »
good advice for the trunks, but what about the branches?

The branches should be marked with a black marker, if possible, as to the TOP.  Branch wood makes the best bows, and the top of the branches make the best backs.   I have seen yew trees with arm-thick branches 20 feet long, practically free of knots.   Goldmine of perfect bow wood.   For branch wood, cut it into the largest useable sections you can.  I usually cut all my staves overlength, and don't bother sealing the back.   When time comes to start carving, i locate the center of the grip, measure out the bow from there, and cut off any checking in the process.

May i ask you, if you have 3 yew trees on your property, just cut one?  Or take the branches?  It's great wood, but a rare tree.  The branches are the best part anyway.  Not to rain on your parade, just saying. 

good luck!

Offline Oberon

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Re: Harvesting yew
« Reply #6 on: October 30, 2010, 01:11:40 am »
  I just plan to harvest one and some branches from the largest.  In fact will be doing this real soon.

Pomerb

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Re: Harvesting yew
« Reply #7 on: November 10, 2010, 08:56:56 pm »
Oberon,  I live in Corvallis and I have had the opportunity to harvest some yew wood off of the private Starker forest.  I have a contact there that looks for it at the loggings sites as it is usually put on the burn piles as they don't see it as an economical wood in the Doug Fir forest.  The material I have has been from the coastal mountain and second growth.  I have made a few very nice bows from the staves and billets.

I picked this bow making business up two years ago when I met a fellow that was on Sebatical at Oregon State Univ.  He is from Germany and had learned the art of building longbows when he got his Doctorate in Naughtingham England.  His specialty was Atmospheric Geology and when he got a chance for his 1 yr Sebatical he came to Corvallis cause it was the home of Gillman Keasey (twice US Natl Long Bow champ in the 1930s who was a famous bow maker.  Gillman has been gone for over 10 yrs (I did'nt know he existed, died in his 80's.  Gillman also co-wrote a manual that was used for over 40 yrs to teach college womens archery PE classes.

I offered my shop up to the German fellow and he taught me how to build bows from yew, and from laminations, etc.  I could not have pointed a yew tree out prior to that to save my life.  So, now I am hooked on this stuff and spend a lot of time in my shop shaving wood off of sticks.  I am a Boy Scout Master and I have enjoyed sharing this craft with many Scouts in our council.

So, I offer up what ever I have learned to you, especially as a fellow Oregonian where the Pacific Yew grows. 
My name is Blair Pomeroy, cell # 541-740-1588.  I would love to learn where there is yew that is from higher elevations in the state.  The coastal trees I have harvested have pretty wide growth rings and pretty thick sap wood, but I have had a couple of beautiful pieces that have made bows in the mid 50# range.  John Strunk has measured some of my bows and given me a pretty good grade on the work.  Maybe we can have a splitting party sometime.