Author Topic: Mollegabet design question - Now with pictures!  (Read 14624 times)

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mikekeswick

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Re: Mollegabet design question
« Reply #15 on: June 18, 2012, 04:53:41 am »
Talking about stresses in given bow designs.
I would say that the wood can take what it can take compression-wise and ANY well made bow should stress the wood the same amount eg. just less than it can take.
The woods properties don't change depending on the bow it's in!

Offline MatthewMeredith

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Re: Mollegabet design question
« Reply #16 on: June 18, 2012, 10:54:03 am »
So I read what you wrote here and all I saw was you said you picked oak board, just to make this clear did you get red oak, white oak?? From what I understand the working of those 2 are different on how you go about it and so far we are guessing on your wood type. I'm just wondering because I am currently making a red oak molly bow too but a little bit wider and shorter though not sure if its going to be ok since I let a friend use it to show some young kids about bow making and it gots some damage to it under 3 hours but luckly I'm fine with it  though it most likely be under poundage as long as its nice and shoots well. If its red oak  this guy here
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bjiPXuuKFa4
 is doing a red oak molly bow build along thats similar to what you are doing so I would say this would be a good guidelines to be near and then do as the other suggested so your chances are higher of making it and getting it there. he says long bow but its a molly and I think its about 35# or so, so check as you get near.
good luck

That's the exact series that I based my dimensions from! With a few alterations, of course :) It is, unfortunately, a white oak board... It's a cheap-o tester that will hopefully teach me a few things about tillering, and them I'm probably going to get a board of Maple. Pics in a moment!

Offline MatthewMeredith

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Re: Mollegabet design question
« Reply #17 on: June 18, 2012, 11:12:55 am »
As promised...









Just some quick shots of the wood... When it's all done I'll bust out the dslr and get some decent pictures :)

Offline bubby

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Re: Mollegabet design question - Now with pictures!
« Reply #18 on: June 18, 2012, 07:05:30 pm »
in the pics that look's like red oak, if you got a white oak board dont fret as it breaks in tension after hickory, i use white oak a lot as self bows and backing strips, it's a top line board bow wood for a rookie, good luck and post pics, Bub
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹

Offline MatthewMeredith

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Re: Mollegabet design question - Now with pictures!
« Reply #19 on: June 18, 2012, 09:41:21 pm »
in the pics that look's like red oak, if you got a white oak board dont fret as it breaks in tension after hickory, i use white oak a lot as self bows and backing strips, it's a top line board bow wood for a rookie, good luck and post pics, Bub

For all I know, it is red oak; the sign just said "oak" :P Did a whole lot of rasping today but it's too dark to take pics tonight... Should be up tomorrow!

Offline sound maker

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Re: Mollegabet design question - Now with pictures!
« Reply #20 on: June 19, 2012, 09:41:37 pm »
where did you get it then??? and most places I've seen have red oak and seems the other kinds are only at lumber yards and woodworking shops. well good luck and keep posting pics so we can see your progress.
I am not the best but learn from the wise and you'll end up being called he best!
 What one person calls common sense another calls wisdom.