Sinew backing--will it save a sub-par bow?

[Beleg813]

So I've ordered some sinew in hopes of backing my bow (and my tomahawk head, but that's another story/post). I've looked at the grain on my bow and it may not be the "optimal" piece of wood. That being said, will a few layers of sinew backing make a sub-par bow, stable enough to hunt with?

I realize the curing process for a layer of sinew can be a few weeks or more, so yeah time isn't an option I'd just like my first bow to be a sucess as much as possible. Any thoughts, suggestions, or funny anec-dotes would be greatly appreciated!!

brandon

[YewArcher]

Here is a thought for you.

Sinewing a bow is allot of work. Processing, prep time, the actual aplication, waiting for it to cure. its also not cheap. Sinew costs a few bucks. I would never sinew a sub-par bow. I would never sinew a bow to save it either. A sinew bow should be a well thought out and planned bow. Meaning it should be desigmed for sinew from the begining.

That being said if you have a ton of time and a bunch of extra sinew then it may be worth the practice. But If I where you I would just start another bow.

SJM

[Beleg813]

That makes sense. I can confirm that sinew is not the cheapest, most easy thing in the world to get. And, a few months of precious time is worth considerably more than that. I think I'll wait on the sinew and see if it's just my miscalculation on calling this board a "sub-par" bow, and perhaps learn a bit while making this bow along the way. I think I need some serious experience on the entire process of bow-making before I can start from scratch.

Thanks for the input YewArcher, it is appreciated.

[YewArcher]

No problem, good luck. If thats a board that you hve there and if you are at a good weight and need a bow to hunt with and are just unsure of its durability you could back it with some other things that would be easier and cheaper. Linen, rawhide etc....

I have some linene that I could cut you a tsrip and drop it in the mail. Very easy to apply with TB2.

let me know if interested.

SJM

[Beleg813]

Great. Yeah I'll take you up on that offer--makes a ton of sense. For some reason my brain just wanted Sinew to be "all-inclusive" problem solver...kind of a get out of jail free card.

Faulty reasoning I suppose!

Thanks   

[YewArcher]

ok, great. I have black or natural color. Just let me know the diminsion of your bow ....width and lenght and pm me your adress.

SJM

[majsnuff]

First let me say that just as Yew said. Designing the bow from the beginning to be sinew backed is by far the best route to go.
Having said that though,
and:

Having a good supply of sinew, and a nice take down Vine maple with a splinter lifting on the back, I combined the 2 into a useable "take down Holmgaard". Sinew backed, then backed with Diamond back, I hunted Elk with it for 2 weeks last month.

This was my first attempt at #1 a take down bow,#2 Holmgaard designed bow, #3 Vine Maple. I have found recently that Holmgaards were not backed  , were not take down ,and had no string knocks . Soooo my bow is just a quick shootin little home made bow that I rescued with a bit of sinew, glue, and time.

I agree that use of valuable sinew and time might make one give a lot of consideration prior to undertaking such a repair. But I would give it that consideration.

[Beleg813]

Majsnuff, thanks for the response.

Hey, it doesn't matter if it can't be classified as a Holmgaard..all that matters is that it shoots an arrow efficiently, and hopefully will continue to do so for a great number of years, right?

IT sounds like a smokin' awesome bow to me And, thanks for the advice!

[Beleg813]

ok, great. I have black or natural color. Just let me know the diminsion of your bow ....width and lenght and pm me your adress.

SJM

Haha, right of course. I PM'd you my address thinking that was all the information you needed. I'm shooting for 66"  close to 3" at the fades tapering down in a straight (or close to straight) line to 1/2 nocks. The handle will be 4" long then it will taper from 2" wide to 3". Man, never knew how hard it was to textually explain bow dimensions! That's going to be my starting measurements...as far as weight goes I'm not looking or attempting anything heavier than 50#--I"m just starting out with a big bow so taht I have some room for mistakes. Black would be cool YewArcher thanks a ton!

[Beleg813]

Sorry, for all the posts just trying to get the correct ideas here. Let's say if I have a bit of grain "run-off" could I essentially just flatten the *#)@( out of it, and slap some hickory on there? Would that essentially void the grain "run-off" ?

Thanks again for the great advice

[YewArcher]

Cool, I will cut you a piece 3" X68" That should; cover ya. I will get it out in a few days.

SJM

[Beleg813]

Great, thanks a lot