Author Topic: Tanning deer hides  (Read 7365 times)

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NorthShore

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Tanning deer hides
« on: October 20, 2007, 01:39:51 pm »
Hello this is my first post here.How do you tan a deer hide?

Offline mitchman

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Re: Tanning deer hides
« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2007, 06:25:08 pm »
look up brain tan on google

jamie

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Re: Tanning deer hides
« Reply #2 on: October 20, 2007, 06:53:53 pm »
depends on the type of finished material you want. brain tan produces the softest type and can be done with other materials than brain. tanning actually refers to hard leather, like a saddle. it requires tannin from tree bark like hemlock, oak, cedar etc. . great for quivers . every method of tanning takes a lot of work. brain tanning can be done wet or dry. i prefer wet. dry is probably easier as far as the process itself goes.

to do the dry process first remove all the fat and meat from the flesh side of the hide. a straight piece of metal with a flat edge will work to remove this stuff along with a 6" or larger diameter tube. a debarked tree will work but in a pinch 6"pvc pipe works great. . next soak the hide for a few days in water, a stream is best but it can be done in a bucket. you just have to change the water a couple times a day or bacteria will build up ruin the hide and possibly get you very sick. if you can pull out the hair with your fingers its ready. remove all the hair with the scraper. now that the hair is removed you have to build a frame to lace up the hide. 2X4 nailed into a 7'X5' frame will do. you need to lace the hide to the frame. cut an incision about 1 inch in from the edge of the hide every4" or so all the way around the hide and run string from each hole to the frame. this allows the hide to dry perfectly flat. gotta go bring my kids to a party i'll finish up when i get back

jamie

  • Guest
Re: Tanning deer hides
« Reply #3 on: October 20, 2007, 08:15:31 pm »
alright im back. now a new scraper needs to be made. any good piece of steel 2" wide and about 4" long will work .ive used an old lawn mower blade that i cut to length.  the end of it needs to be rounded and sharpened then it need to be fastened to the end of a handle . very similar to an adze. when the hide is laced up and dry and the adze/scraper is made you need to scraper both sides of the hide to remove the membrane that is on the hide. the hair side is the easy side to see and remove the membrane the left side is a little more tricky to figure out if you have removed it. just make sure every square inch of the hide is scraped. once its scraped you can go over it with some rough sandpaper to open up the grain a bit more .  now if you dont have the animals brains there are other things you can use. i like eggs. take a dozen eggs and beat them into an omelot. and mix the beaten eggs into 1 gallon of warm water. just hot enogh so you can put your hand in it without getting burned is good. rub the solution intop the hide so it softens up. one of two things can be done next. you can unlace the hide and put it into the egg mixture then wring it out . do this several times to get tthe egg mixture into the hide completely. this is the best method. or you can just keep rubbing the egg mixture into the laced up hide untill it is all absorbed. . this works too but if the egg isnt completely absorbed you will end up with a stiff hide. once the egg is inthe hide . its time to get ready for some serious elbow grease or unlace the hide and freeze it till you are ready. the next step is to let it dry while laced up to the frame. the trick is to constantly stretch it as it is drying. take a broom stick or something equivalent and constantly push it into the hide as it dries. this keeps the fibers soft. dont stop untill the hide is 100 PERCENT DRY OR IT WILL REVERT TO RAWHIDE AGAIN! then you will have to start by rehydrateing and stretching all over. during the drying process you can use the lacing to keep the hide taunt on the frame. this actually will make the finished hide larger than the original. once it is completely dry you should have a finished hide that is as soft as flannel. if your happy with it there is one more step. smoke, lots of it. again many different methods to use. you need to get the fibers of the hide permeated with wood smoke. this helps the hide to stay soft after it gets wet. if you dont smoke it and the hide gets wet you again end up with  rawhide. it doesnt take a lot of smoke to do it. i did it once with a smudge stick blowing it over the hide till the smudge stick was gone and it was enough. my favorite method is to hang a bunch of hides in a wigwam and build a smoky fire but you probably dont have a wigwam. sewing it up into a sleeve and hanging it over a smoky fire in a pit will do the trick. you just need to make sure you have smoke and not fire or the hide will burn. im sure there is something i missed but these are the basics. peace

snakebow

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Re: Tanning deer hides
« Reply #4 on: October 21, 2007, 10:54:33 am »
I've also been wanting to tan hides but did'nt have the brains to do it with. Thanks for the info.

Offline cowboy

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  • Paul Wolfe. Springtown, TX
Re: Tanning deer hides
« Reply #5 on: October 21, 2007, 11:19:05 am »
WOW! Thanks man - that's exactly what I didn't know bout tanning ;D. Now ta go get them hides..
When you come upon a track or trail you do not know, follow it to the point of knowing.

jamie

  • Guest
Re: Tanning deer hides
« Reply #6 on: October 21, 2007, 11:24:24 am »
was gonna type up the wet scrape method but im gonna reccomend a book instead. matt richards deerskins into buckskins. im pretty sure horsefeathers has it. i know horsefeathers has mcphersons book. it gives you better instructions for the above method. if you order any of his books get the naked series. they have info on everything. richards and mcphersons are trust worthy books because they walk the walk, not armchair quarterbacks. peace

NorthShore

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Re: Tanning deer hides
« Reply #7 on: October 21, 2007, 09:38:27 pm »
Thanks for the info.Hopefully I get a deer this year.I would like to try this.