Tiller help please. (NEW PIC)

[Ed Brooks]

This is my 2nd board bow, it's oak with teak tips and handle, 60" t2t, 1/2" wide tips, 5/8" wide handle, handle 4" into fades of about 1.5", widest part is 1 1/2". Brace was 3 3/4" in the pic. Thanks for looking and the feed back. Ed

[Parnell]

Good job with it being even, it is stiff out of the fades.

[The tinker]

the top fade just above the handle looks like it could stand to have just a little taken off.

[Roy]

Yup top limb from fade out to about 10 - 11 inches is a tad flat.

[Ed Brooks]

Thank you for the feed back. I'll be scrapping it tonight. Ed

[Wooden Spring]

Do you have a cheater tool? I couldn't tiller without one...

Just take a piece of hardwood about 4 1/2 to 6 inches long, 3/4" wide, and maybe about an inch tall. Drill a hole through the center just big enough for a pencil to slip through. Make the pencil lead just barely stick through, then slide the tool along the back of your bow - any flat spots will be marked. Then just shave off the pencil mark, and go back to your tillering stick. Easy as that.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Both your tips are very close to a hinge. Don't touch them.

[Ed Brooks]

hlstanley: Thank you for the feed back.
I have been dragging my feet about making one of those..I think it's time.

pearl drums; I will leave them alone thank you.  Ed

[Del the cat]

It's pretty good, just a tad stiff on the upper limb inner 1/3 and a little less so on the lower.
Tillered as it is I'd guess it's pretty quick, but still a good idea to let the inner limbs share some of the load.
Quick isn't necessarilly long lasting!
Del
(IMO it's better to educate your eye and your feel than to use a gizmo, but that doesn't mean they are a bad thing or even 'cheating' )

[Tom Leemans]

The bottom looks better to me but both are way stiff near the fades/dips.

The tillering gizmo is a fantastic tool. Even if you always use it, you'll find that you get faster with time because you learn to see the way the limb bends and, as time goes by, you start getting closer before you even pick up the tool. You just need to make sure you don't solely rely on the pencil mark. Look at the limb from all angles each time you stop working on it and exercising it.

[Wooden Spring]

The bottom looks better to me but both are way stiff near the fades/dips.

The tillering gizmo is a fantastic tool. Even if you always use it, you'll find that you get faster with time because you learn to see the way the limb bends and, as time goes by, you start getting closer before you even pick up the tool. You just need to make sure you don't solely rely on the pencil mark. Look at the limb from all angles each time you stop working on it and exercising it.

True, but for a noob like me, the cheater tool helps me go from "snap, crackle, and pop + many swear words + call to the pastor to appologize" to "Oooooo, did you see that bullseye shot!?" And hey, everyone starts out on a bicycle with training wheels, so why not start with the cheater tool! 

[Roy]

Note how the top limb needs to bend a little more to match the bottom limb.

[Ed Brooks]

Thank you all for the advice. you folks are awesome. Ed

[Hamish]

Another good way to help judge tiller is to look at the set in the unstrung stave. It will show you if one part of the limb is doing more than its fair share of work.

[Ed Brooks]

Here she is again after some more wood removed and an new string from Pear Drums, any help would be greatly appreciated, Thank you again. Ed