Author Topic: Hand Drill Positions  (Read 6045 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Kegan

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,676
Hand Drill Positions
« on: January 18, 2008, 08:06:16 pm »
I sit down when I do the hadn drill, but alot of people (including HIllbilly and Jamie) use the kneeling position. I dunno why, but I have troubel getting it to work. It's considered easier by alot of hand drillers, but is it really that much better (I assume it lets you use a wider variety of materials)? If so, any tips on how I could get it to work :P?

*So far I use either golden rod (1/4"-5/16") or mullien (3/8") bits on a 30" sourwood drill (it's about 11/32"). All on aspen fireboards about 5/16" thick.

Offline Hillbilly

  • Member
  • Posts: 8,248
  • I like tater tots.
Re: Hand Drill Positions
« Reply #1 on: January 18, 2008, 08:16:26 pm »
The main advantage I see to kneeling is that you can put more of your body weight over the spindle to create downward pressure without having to push down as hard. Try getting right over the drill. In the end, whatever is most comfortable and works best for you is what works best for you-if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Have you tried horseweed? It seems to be the primo drill material that I've tried so far.
Smoky Mountains, NC

NeolithicHillbilly@gmail.com

Progress might have been all right once but it's gone on for far too long.

Offline Justin Snyder

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 13,794
Re: Hand Drill Positions
« Reply #2 on: January 18, 2008, 09:08:21 pm »
Ergonomics....  Leverage is much better, and if you kneel on one knee the other foot can hold the hearth.  Well that and I can't sit down very good like that if I don't have something to lean back against.  :D Justin
Everything happens for a reason, sometimes the reason is you made a bad decision.


SW Utah

Offline ricktrojanowski

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,064
  • Worlds Greatest Deer Repellent
Re: Hand Drill Positions
« Reply #3 on: January 19, 2008, 01:04:06 am »
I find it easiest to kneel on a piece of wood that holds down the hearth board.  This gets me over the spindle, but far enough away that I can get to the very bottom without feeling crowded.  I agree with hillbilly about the horseweed, I find that it is the easiest for me to get a coal with. Lately I've been using ERC and some local groing White Cedar.
Traverse City, MI

Offline Kegan

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,676
Re: Hand Drill Positions
« Reply #4 on: January 19, 2008, 07:46:56 pm »
I dunno if we have horseweed 'round here, but there are several stalk plants along some back roads that I have yet to identify. I have very little trouble getting it with the goldenrod and mullien we have on our property. It's just really easy and I'd like to be able to do it with harder materials, some of the more readily available stuff.

Justin- how you phrased that made me realice why I'm not getting it going kneeling- I'm leaning on my leg (the on that holds the fireboard), which gets my arms in the way :D. No wonder I keep having toruble ;D.

Hillbilly- I just wanna know more about playing with fire >:D!

Offline Kegan

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,676
Re: Hand Drill Positions
« Reply #5 on: January 25, 2008, 01:23:27 pm »
Well, I've tried it twice now- first time with mullien, second with goldenrod. First time it took me about ten seconds and I had a huge coal glowing without any blowing. second was a large coal with minimal fanning after twwenty seconds or so. I'm hooked ;). Gonna try a bigger drill, thicker and longer. See if it makes any difference.

Fire fun, ooga booga.

John R

  • Guest
Re: Hand Drill Positions
« Reply #6 on: January 31, 2008, 01:37:12 am »
I have an easier time with horseweed than mullein but could be a personal thing. I hate to admit that I cheat sometimes, but when it's damp, I make a little mouth piece with a divot for the top of the drill that I hold in my teeth. It lets me use more pressure and I don't have to stop spinning to move back up. It may sound odd, but I also favor a pretty small diameter drill over a larger one that used to use with a bow drill before I stopped using it in favor of the hand drill.

Offline Kegan

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,676
Re: Hand Drill Positions
« Reply #7 on: February 03, 2008, 03:06:05 pm »
John R- the mouth piece ain't sheating, just a bit of daredeviling. I keep worriying about getting my eye. The thumb loops over the top worked better for me. I still have to check for horseweed (might have it, might be something else- looks like it though). What diameter are you using? 3/8" seems to work really well for me.

jamie

  • Guest
Re: Hand Drill Positions
« Reply #8 on: February 03, 2008, 09:29:36 pm »
kegan i think you should try the wet test now that youve been doing it for awhile. dunk the board and drill in a bucket of water for 5 minutes shake off the excess water and get a coal. itll teach you to use damp material in the wild.

john if you only go half way down the drill you can walk your hands back up it with out stopping. its great for heating the board especially for what i just told kegan to do.


Offline Kegan

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,676
Re: Hand Drill Positions
« Reply #9 on: February 07, 2008, 09:10:28 pm »
Jamie- I'll have to try that. I keep wanting to get better and yet that hasn't occured to me- thanks :)!