New bow from a newbie

[PEARL DRUMS]

That is scarey. Im not sure Id feel safe within 5-6 meters of that drawn, no matter the draw weight. Sorry for my honesty, if it bothers you. When you see bows made with much more robust configurations explode, you learn what doesn't work fast.

[adb]

Holy cow. You have some serious design flaw issues, including glue lines with gaps. TB3 is not tolerant of your gluing methods. I can't in good conscience approve of what you're doing, especially to the degree you're stressing this design!
This bow is not going to last. It will come apart, and likely in spectacular fashion. If you're going to make a bow with a non-bending handle, make the fade transitions gradual. Wow. I really don't know what to say. That is scary.

[JoJoDapyro]

My first bow was a red oak board bow. I was told on here the cons of gluing on a handle of rigid wood. Being that I knew more than the combined knowledge of everyone here  I did it anyway. The handle section finally did break. The glue joint broke half way through the handle, and the wood of the handle section broke diagonally from the belly of the bow, to the end of the handle. What I learned is this: there are reasons things are done in a certain manner, and why they are not. I have far less experience than the combined knowledge of the members of this group. If you have 5 people telling you it is a bad idea, it more than likely is. Swallow your pride and get back to building. No one likes to be told that their ideas are not good ones. The best minds in the world are able to take what people tell them is wrong, and make it right. Good luck on the next one.

[iangriffin]

Hi wills
Thanks for the input. I have used this design of limb in a short flatbow. It was 60ins. It turned badly because I did'nt know to taper the core. It had big hinges at the fades. Truely horrible to see. I've' shot about 70-80 arrows with it. Apart from the hinge problem it still works. The flatbow's handle was 7ins. The handle on this new bow takes 4 ins off the combined limbs. So I've got an extra 3ins to play with, to justify the reflex setting. This again may be newbie logic. I must say that I have not extensively tested (1000- 1500 arrows) either of my 80-100lbs bows yet. Please do'nt think I 'm being disrespectful to people with much more experience than me. I'am just trying to understand things. I contacted Ian., he lives in a different bolton to me, 4 hours driving apart. But he seems very friendly and helpful in his PMs, we swapped.
Hi PEARL DRUMS - Thanks for your post. The vast majority agrees with you.
Hi PatM -  Agreed about the hoop strength. Giving the rod more strength and the ability to bend in any direction. I only need 2 directions. Please, I am struggling to understand the logic. My reply is not meant to be impolite.

[JoJoDapyro]

Also, this isn't about right and wrong. it is about safe or not.

[medicinewheel]

...
Please define eventually. One of my bows is a grozer 50lbs bio-composite assyrian style. Its my second one of these. The first one blew the core near the fades after 10 months. So do you think it would help if I put in a couple oak pegs through the handle joints?
...

Eventually here means: miracles do happen! If this bow holds up I would call that a miracle. But even if it holds for a thousand shots I will stay away when you pull it.
Nothing I can say about that Grozer bow, can't see the relation between it and the handle design discussed in this thread.
And NO! ...pegs won't help.

Again: everyone closer than 10 meters when you pull that bow is endangered to be hit in the head by a limb breaking free from that glue joint. The bow will break and it will more likely than not do so in a spectacular manner!

[pincushin]

Frankly I'd like to this contraption drawn

[medicinewheel]

... I have used this design of limb in a short flatbow....

Nobody here has mentioned anything about your limb design, we talk about a handle construction that is going to fail. I really don't know what can possibly be difficult to understand here. Even for a newbie. Impossible handle design, bad glue joints, not enough clueing surface.

[medicinewheel]

Frankly I'd like to this contraption drawn

Me too.

[adb]

Thanks for the input. I have used this design of limb in a short flatbow. It was 60ins. It turned badly because I did'nt know to taper the core. It had big hinges at the fades. Truely horrible to see.

Yes, I would think a bow of this design would be very badly hinged right at the transition from the handle to the limb. It doesn't look to me like you have much width or thickness taper, so that's where it's going to bend.
Also, some people do, but it's not necessary to taper the core.

I would also like to see this bow at full draw. I think I might even duck just looking at the picture, but let's have a look.

[paco664]

here is my .02 cents worth.. i also am a newbie..

if this many experienced bowyers were telling me what i was doing was dangerous to myself and others i would stop... listen... and understand these people have either seen someone hurt by a faulty design or have themselves been hurt by a exploding bow...

just my opinion and worth every penny it cost you... but i would pay close attention to what they're telling you

[adb]

For the next bow you make, strive for smooth and tapering transitions from grip to fade... kinda like this...

And tight glue joints... with no gaps.

[PatM]

 It's funny how the picture of the handle actually makes you feel slightly queasy. It's like looking at an old bridge  that someone is determined to cross.

[Josh B]

First off welcome aboard!  It may not seem like much of a welcome, but these fellas are thinking of your best interests.  I won't reiterate what has already been said.  I do agree with the warnings that have been posted however.  I hope you understand that no one is picking on you.  They're just trying to make sure that you'll be around to make bows in the future.  Josh

[danny f]

hiya ian just noticed your from bolton.(which one)  im from bolton in greater manchester.