Author Topic: spine considerations shooting around self bow handle  (Read 14799 times)

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Offline Pappy

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Re: spine considerations shooting around self bow handle
« Reply #15 on: May 27, 2015, 06:40:44 am »
If you are a right handed shooter , that looks a little stiff to me, add more weight or scrape a bit off mid 2/3 of the shaft, don't take much. Nice looking arrow by the way, I always build my shoot shafts 1 at a time anyway, like building bow, all wood is a little different.
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Offline E. Jensen

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Re: spine considerations shooting around self bow handle
« Reply #16 on: May 27, 2015, 10:43:32 am »
I've also been having trouble with this.  I want nice arrows for my 55# mulberry, so I made an arrow spined 35, 40, 45, and 50.  30" with 125gn points.  They all shoot straight yet all still make contact with the bow.

Offline Tuomo

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Re: spine considerations shooting around self bow handle
« Reply #17 on: May 28, 2015, 03:03:11 am »
Rise your brace height - a very simple solution if the arrow hits to the handle. Minimum brace heigth (from belly side of grip) is about 15 cm (6") - the more the better.

And, try stiffer arrows. I do not understand why primitive archers likes so weak arrows (old rule, 5-10# below draw weight), because stiff arrow functions better.

Offline Sockrablur

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Re: spine considerations shooting around self bow handle
« Reply #18 on: May 30, 2015, 10:55:51 am »
There was no change in impact with 145gr fp from 125gr. So today I will try 160gr and then 190 gr and see what happens.

Tuomo... I understand your point sir. What I am trying to do is learn how to manipulate an arrow, to tune it to fly straight and hit in a manner that it transfers as much energy as possible into penetration in an animals chest cavity. My interests by far lie in hunting deer, but this process is like a puzzle to me and I have taken an interest in it. The information seems a little daunting at times but I appreciate it's merit, challenge, and old world craftsmanship feel I get as the arrow shafting I cut, dried, straightened, scraped, and tuned leaves the bow. I am enchanted :)

At this point ,if by changing point weight, if I determine the arrow is stiff I would rework the start and weaken it to reduce the required fp weight and overall arrow weight. Total weight with 145 gr fp was 662gr...

Offline Sockrablur

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Re: spine considerations shooting around self bow handle
« Reply #19 on: May 30, 2015, 12:05:41 pm »
Any one want to throw "introductory" nock height into the mix?





Let me start with what I think I know from reading much smarter folks than me and please correct me as needed. I think my knock height in the photo is set at 5/8. That means to me the bottom of the nock is 5/8 above zero, that 90 deg line from top of arrow rest to string. It's a little frustrating because everyone seems to measure differently but I believe anyway you measure matters less than being consistent in how you do it. Is there a right or standard way to measure nock height?

So I guess I'm looking for is an acceptable beginning to adjusting/tuning my knock height. I don't want to be making an obvious mistake out of ignorance. Do I need to learn how to shoot through paper and read the nock tear or bare shaft tune? is there an easier way or should I jump in?

I chose 5/8 because lots of people seem to settle there. Lately I've noticed how my nocked arrow seems pointed down hill. It would seem level is better but I assume that creates arrow rest deflection issues??

As always thanks for your thoughts and time guys!


Offline Pat B

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Re: spine considerations shooting around self bow handle
« Reply #20 on: May 30, 2015, 12:45:54 pm »
My initial nock setting is about 3/8" above horizontal but I nock on top of the nock point.
 Everyone is a little different; each bow and shooter has a sweet spot. Its up to you to find out where it works best for you.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Sockrablur

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Re: spine considerations shooting around self bow handle
« Reply #21 on: May 30, 2015, 02:16:57 pm »
That's interesting Pat. I assume shooting split bolts the arrow down then. I think i read howard hill nocked an arrow like this as well. He felt it was a more fluid motion drawing an arrow out of the quiver, nocking the arrow and coming to draw. I could be wrong but interesting.

So I tried 160 &190gr fp with no change in impact. So I think i am going to make a Sherwood shaft and a cane shaft with the steel field points just to see if I can get them to react or move point of impact with changes in point weight.

Offline bow101

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Re: spine considerations shooting around self bow handle
« Reply #22 on: May 31, 2015, 01:05:32 pm »
Your grouping looks good how far is the target Sockrablur..?
"The privilege of a lifetime is being who you are."  Joseph Campbell

Offline Pat B

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Re: spine considerations shooting around self bow handle
« Reply #23 on: May 31, 2015, 01:46:44 pm »
Nice looking bow you have there!  ::)
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Sockrablur

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Re: spine considerations shooting around self bow handle
« Reply #24 on: May 31, 2015, 02:01:08 pm »
10-15 yards away. I thought I would be able to manipulate arrow impact to the right by adding tip weight. I was unable to.
I'm now building a cane arrow and a purchased Doug fir arrow to see if they respond differently. I have detailed notes from my dogwood & wild rose arrow building last year and have learned a lot, I see things I could have done better, things I just didn't know or understand. Learning as I go : )

Offline Sockrablur

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Re: spine considerations shooting around self bow handle
« Reply #25 on: May 31, 2015, 02:03:21 pm »
Ha ha... Yes Sir Pat! All I have shot since she showed up in the mail. Thank You  :)

Offline Chief RID

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Re: spine considerations shooting around self bow handle
« Reply #26 on: May 31, 2015, 11:05:03 pm »
A lot of info here. I will monitor.

Offline bubbles

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Re: spine considerations shooting around self bow handle
« Reply #27 on: June 03, 2015, 12:37:11 am »
You would probably notice more drastic changes with a bareshaft when you make changes. Fletchings have a habit of correcting things, especially with field points.