Author Topic: Heat treatment color change  (Read 2932 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline DC

  • Member
  • Posts: 10,396
Heat treatment color change
« on: December 03, 2015, 01:59:31 pm »
I was heat treating a Doug maple bow and it seemed to take a long time to get any color change. I did my normal 45 min per limb and it hardly had any color change so I did a test sample. I had the gun 4" from the wood. It took 15 min to get a light milk chocolate brown in one spot. I moved it 1/2" and it took 6 min to brown that spot and it continued on like that. 6 min for every 1/2" works out to around 4 hrs per limb, a little much. The test piece was 1/2" thick and the back was getting hot enough so it was uncomfortable to hold my hand on for long. Unless my gun has changed since the last bow, an OS that seemed to brown normally, should I be holding it closer? Do different woods brown quicker and if so should I be changing time/distance for different woods?

Offline PEARL DRUMS

  • Member
  • Posts: 14,079
  • }}}--CK-->
Re: Heat treatment color change
« Reply #1 on: December 03, 2015, 03:38:52 pm »
Its not the wood, IMO. Perhaps your heat gun is on the "blink". I have two Wagner guns and they don't work the same on the same setting. One is hotter, for sure.

Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline Pat B

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 37,496
Re: Heat treatment color change
« Reply #2 on: December 03, 2015, 04:44:24 pm »
I agree with Pearlie but to me, some woods do seem to not get as dark as quickly as others. I have an old Wagner I bought at a garage sale for $5 about 15 years ago. I hand hold it about 2" above the belly and move it back and forth over about a 6" area until it gets the color I want. I then move to the next 6" and do the same, occasionally going back over the previous area. I do this out the limb keeping the whole limb hot with repeated heating and clamp the limb to the form as I go. Then I go to the next limb. If I'm putting in a lot of reflex or taking out a lot I'll work on one limb for one clamp then go to the other limb, heat and clamp so the in between areas aren't stressed to much, sort of keeping the stresses even on both limbs.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline DC

  • Member
  • Posts: 10,396
Re: Heat treatment color change
« Reply #3 on: December 03, 2015, 06:20:20 pm »
I'll find a scrap of OS to test. I kind of know what to expect from it. I may try closer like Pat says but so far I've done all mine at 4". Maybe my guns gone west but it's only a year old.

Offline Springbuck

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,545
Re: Heat treatment color change
« Reply #4 on: December 03, 2015, 07:42:43 pm »
  If it is the heat gun, like, say it's only reaching 600 degrees instead of 1100, or you have an element out, just move it closer to the wood.

Offline BowEd

  • Member
  • Posts: 9,390
  • BowEd
Re: Heat treatment color change
« Reply #5 on: December 03, 2015, 07:45:04 pm »
I bought a heat gun from harbor frieght once and it did'nt last a year.I forget the brand name.My wagnor  2 settings 500 and 1100 degrees has hung in there for at least 5 Years.Used it a lot too.
BowEd
You got to stand for something or you'll fall for anything.
Ed

Offline BowEd

  • Member
  • Posts: 9,390
  • BowEd
Re: Heat treatment color change
« Reply #6 on: December 03, 2015, 07:48:22 pm »
I also bought a laser thermometer.You could check it that way.There not that expensive.I bought it originally to check heat temperatures on bearing of trailers when I was hauling things.It can check the temp of a bows' belly easily.
BowEd
You got to stand for something or you'll fall for anything.
Ed

Offline huisme

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,036
  • I'm Marc, but not that Marc.
Re: Heat treatment color change
« Reply #7 on: December 03, 2015, 09:25:42 pm »
Locust changes color really fast, about half the time it takes my gun to darken hickory, but I don't know about many other woods.
50#@26"
Black locust. Black locust everywhere.
Mollegabets all day long.
Might as well make them short, save some wood to keep warm.

Offline loon

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,307
Re: Heat treatment color change
« Reply #8 on: December 04, 2015, 04:11:57 am »
I finished my hickory self bow with tung oil and beeswax, would it explode or go up in flames if I tried to heat treat it? I've tried to heat treat it but it didn't change color noticeably and it's taken some set. Heat gun is something like 1100 or 1400 degrees but maybe it's defective or something. It took an eternity to soften PVC

Offline PEARL DRUMS

  • Member
  • Posts: 14,079
  • }}}--CK-->
Re: Heat treatment color change
« Reply #9 on: December 04, 2015, 08:00:03 am »
Color change isn't really a solid indicator. Locust does change incredibly fast. And if your moving your gun just as fast you are not tempering the wood, only coloring it and charring the outside while you heat shape it.
Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline Marc St Louis

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 7,869
  • Keep it flexible
    • Marc's Bows and Arrows
Re: Heat treatment color change
« Reply #10 on: December 04, 2015, 08:52:45 am »
I have cut the odd tree that didn't change colour as expected when heat-treating and it may be because of the amount of sugars in the wood
Home of heat-treating, Corbeil, On.  Canada

Marc@Ironwoodbowyer.com

Offline Badger

  • Member
  • Posts: 8,119
Re: Heat treatment color change
« Reply #11 on: December 04, 2015, 10:08:42 am »
Color change isn't really a solid indicator. Locust does change incredibly fast. And if your moving your gun just as fast you are not tempering the wood, only coloring it and charring the outside while you heat shape it.

   Pearl what I started doing several years ago is moving my gun across the entire limb from one end to the other, speed is not all that important, it eventually goes into a tage where it starts to produce a smell like cooking and then the color will start gradually changing, the ends tend to get hotter than the center when going back and forth so my sweeping motion gets shorter as it changes color. I go for a barely visible "cooked" look but not really brown.

Offline PEARL DRUMS

  • Member
  • Posts: 14,079
  • }}}--CK-->
Re: Heat treatment color change
« Reply #12 on: December 04, 2015, 12:02:19 pm »
Steve I do something similar, but not the whole limb. Maybe 8-12" at a time. Smell, IMO, is a good indicator along with sight. Especially after you have smelled a 100 or so cooking, you just know.
Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.