Hi Pat, I had problems with West Systems for delamination,can't remember the code, but it wasn't G Flex that's for sure. My stuff was a good glue for static joints in furniture. It was about 10years ago so they might not still be using the formulation, I had trouble with.
I also found it wasn't good for areas near the fades/handle riser- even not visibly bending, it still must undergo enough stress to start breaking down at the exposed joint.
I avoid any commonly available hardware store type of 24hr "strong" epoxy. I had the same problem with handles risers lifting at the dips, and I have even had Z spliced billets start to come apart. Had to break the rest of the joint with a heatgun, soak and scrub of the residue with acetone, then re glue with a proven epoxy.
You can definitely get away with a more rubbery glue joint in a full length lamination as there isn't any exposed areas except at the tips which don't bend much.
The best test I have found is to mix up a small amont of epoxy on a thick bit of plastic like an icecream lid. When its cured flex the plastic around. If its rubbery and bends with the plastic base, it could cause problems in area for handle risers etc. If the glue snaps crisply and leaves a glass like fracture it should be strong enough for any application. Resorcinol and urea formaldehyde have the same characteristic glass like glue line, bullet proof results.