Author Topic: Wood sinew horse bow (Read 13573 times)

sleek · « **on:** September 09, 2017, 01:51:44 am »

I have posted about this bow some already but would like to share the build photos of it. It was a fairly unique build and reckoned it deserved its own thread.

Bow stats are 43#@28. Bow when strung is 49.5" ntn at 54" long around its curves.

sleek · « **Reply #1 on:** September 09, 2017, 01:56:36 am »

Here I have started out with a sinewed bow blank. It was a gift and already sinewed. I decided to try to work the bow with heat and not damage the sinew. I recurved the siyahs for ease of build. They dont bend so I didnt worry about damaging the sinew there.

To make this style of bow, I have been experimenting with many other bows to get the design and process right. Here is a form ready to deflex the fades. Gentel heat for a long time and a damp rag in the back to keep it cool were necessary.

sleek · « **Reply #2 on:** September 09, 2017, 02:02:18 am »

I didnt have another clamp handy so I made one of a 2x4.

sleek · « **Reply #3 on:** September 09, 2017, 02:04:04 am »

It did its job well.

sleek · « **Reply #4 on:** September 09, 2017, 02:12:16 am »

At this point with both fades bent I cut the bow in half along the handle to make a scarf joint and reflex the handle. As you can see, the handle wasnt long enough so I had to set in more wood to fill the void and give myself more surface area to glue to.

sleek · « **Reply #5 on:** September 09, 2017, 02:15:10 am »

Another view

sleek · « **Reply #6 on:** September 09, 2017, 02:16:32 am »

And another. That should make things clear how that piece fit in.

sleek · « **Reply #7 on:** September 09, 2017, 02:25:26 am »

With those extra blocks of wood filling that void, I needed something to tie the spacer in with the limb. These plates of buffalo horn became nice side plates.

sleek · « **Reply #8 on:** September 09, 2017, 02:27:16 am »

The side plates were not quite long enough to cover the entire side, ao I decided to do some inlay work. Above I was prepping the surface and squaring up my edges.

You will also see that on the last image I put a butt cap on the handle to tie the scarf joint and spacers in together from that side as well. The more glue surface you have, the better.

sleek · « **Reply #9 on:** September 09, 2017, 02:31:02 am »

Here is first brace. It was puppy approved.

sleek · « **Reply #10 on:** September 09, 2017, 02:32:48 am »

Second brace after a bit of tiller work. All my tiller work happens with the bow braced. I am usually able to get the tiller well worked out before I ever pull on it past brace.