ERC board belly with hickory board backing?

[txdm]

I could cut an arched form for it.

[txdm]

I got my backings cut...but... 

My table saw fence has a broken securing latch that allows the top of the fence to rock away from parallel to the blade, so it was a frightful and dodgy ordeal to get them done. The technique I used to was to feed it halfway through, lift it up carefully, then flip and feed the other half. I still have all my fingers, but a new Delta T30 fence and rails is on the way.

The backings currently are both 1/4". I watched some youtube vids and found some ways to do it safer using jigs next time when the new rail comes in. I'll take them down to 1/8" then plane and sand them flat by hand.

Overall I'm still really excited about this bow. I think the handle billet will be hickory as well.

[Pat B]

txdm, take the hickory backing strips down to 3/16". By the time you remove the tool marks you will be at 1/8" or slightly less.

[txdm]

Sounds like a good plan, and the blade can nibble it all away without any outfeed.

[txdm]

Today I got the new table saw rails/fence put on and shaved the laminates down without losing a finger!

After that I started working down the last 1/16" to get them to 1/8". I tried my hand with a stanley block plane and found my skill lacking. So light passes on the belt sander, then alternate scraping and hand sanding was the work of the day. They'll need another few passes before they're ready.

For the splice I'm planning to try for 30°.

[JWMALONE]

When I get something that thin I don't use my planes. I take a piece of belt sander paper and cut it staple one end to the grain end of a board then clamp the other end. Then I can place the work piece on it and slide it back and forth.  This works faster than you think and if you pay attention you can get it dead flat or way flatter than by hand. I call it the poor boys belt sander. Its not nearly as risky as a belt sander at this point. You can make a couple push blocks one for each end with scrap 2 by 4s. Looking forward to see how she comes out.  Good luck.

[txdm]

A big ol sanding block... great idea!

[txdm]

I take a piece of belt sander paper and cut it staple one end to the grain end of a board then clamp the other end. Then I can place the work piece on it and slide it back and forth.  This works faster than you think and if you pay attention you can get it dead flat or way flatter than by hand. I call it the poor boys belt sander. Its not nearly as risky as a belt sander at this point.

I did this today to finish them out and it works great. You should put this in the Tips and Tricks thread.

[JWMALONE]

TXDM, I would but most folks don't want to hear how poor folks do it. LOL My favorite part of any craft or skill is to sit back and think how the hell did they do this before power tools. It always boils down to ingenuity, simplicity, sweat and SKILL.  Ive watched a lot of ole timers I learned a thing or two about how to make do, I'm more than happy to pass it along.
I have access to ERC so I'm looking forward to see how this goes. Good luck and Good shooting.

[PatM]

so it bends in a nice even arch instead of just coming up mid limb

I am following along and hoping that Steve can clarify what kind of arch txdm should be looking for? or what he is recommending to avoid

   The reverse of a low brace profile.

[txdm]

I found the most pristine and straight-grained cedar board I've ever seen in the leftovers from a gate project.

Hickory backings laid on the cedar board. Also pictured is the belt-sander-block.




Here's a closeup of the splice at the handle (in progress). I originally planned on 30°/60° but went with 45° to keep it simple.


Obviously, there's more work to do there. They line up fine if you rest a finger on the corner that is lifting. I think this is an indication of a slight crowning on the glue side that still needs to be flattened. I plan to lay them side by side and work on them together with the scraper and light sanding. Time to get out the +1.5 reading glasses for this one.

[txdm]

I was using a disc on the side of my belt sander to make the miters. The little table was slightly off, plus defelction of parts, so I kept refining it down to the last 64th.


The center is now marked and the profile is drawn onto the backing strips. I think next step is to cut the limb profiles on the backing strips, then lay those on the cedar board as a template to trace and cut.

[txdm]

One more pic, after scraping the miter's flatter.

[JWMALONE]

You could leave the backing full width only cut the belly out? Which ever way you do it id leave plenty of room for error. as far as getting it all even after glue up with out having to go smaller because of a boo-boo. Pat B has a cool trick with wooden dowels during his glue ups tp prevent slipping.

[bjrogg]

I take a piece of belt sander paper and cut it staple one end to the grain end of a board then clamp the other end. Then I can place the work piece on it and slide it back and forth.  This works faster than you think and if you pay attention you can get it dead flat or way flatter than by hand. I call it the poor boys belt sander. Its not nearly as risky as a belt sander at this point.

I did this today to finish them out and it works great. You should put this in the Tips and Tricks thread.

That's just the kinda tips I'd like to see on that thread to JW
Can't wait to see this finished bow. I just love the look of red cedar heartwood.
Bjrogg