Trade Gun Project

[Parnell]

Read that a dry erase marker works as a substitute for blackening.  It did the job much more easily and comes off neatly.  The barrel is marking fully on the stock now, so, on to the tang.  I have some decisions to make with the length.  If cut for a 2” length, the current precarved design won’t nearly provide enough space for a beaver tail carve that will look right.  So, 1 7/16” precarved design, or, extend it out to 2” and simplify the carving surrounding the tang.

[Parnell]

I’ve been moving forward.  Taking care to fit the barrel and breech plug right.  I removed slightly too much right under the breech but it’s minimal and a thin shin of maple does the trick to correct it.  I was a little unsure of hammering the tang down but found an appropriate soft mallet and it came together.  My next big step will be the underlugs.  I’ve been watching a fusil-de-chase buildalong on the tube that has been very helpful.  Also, just putting in time sanding the pieces clean.  Here is where it lies...

[chamookman]

Lookin good ! Trade Guns are the Bomb  - Bob

[Parnell]

Got my underlugs figured out and in place, soldered them and managed to drill my holes without a problem.  Definitely went slow and measured then remeasured and then once more.  Came out fine.

Pushed the temporary pins through last evening.

I’ve been following the series of YouTube videos done for a fusil build for guidance and cross referencing the Building the Pennsylvania Longrifle book.

[Parnell]

Haven’t updated this in awhile, but have made progress.  Figured out lock disassembly and reassembly and saw that through inletting the lock.  Then had some work to get myself figured out for drilling and tapping the lockbolts, which happened over the weekend.  I’ll admit it made me a bit nervous doing that a first time.  But, it came great so, so far so good.  I’ll have to make a drilling jig for the last main bolt that will insert underneath in front of the trigger and thread upward into the tang.  Perhaps I can get that accomplished in the evening this week.  Some current pictures...

[JW_Halverson]

You may just have that ready in time to hunt turkeys up here with me this spring!

[Parnell]

Tempting, JW!

[chamookman]

Lookin' good    ! Bob

[Hawkdancer]

JW,
Speaking of turkeys - it's about time to start planning!
Hawkdancer

[Parnell]

Bit of progress.  Got the butt plate in, needs just a little more tweaking.  Spent time polishing steel and got the lock together to see if all is well after the lock bolts were done.  All is well.  Be on to the trigger, and guard, then I’ll be thinking about the angled tang bolt.

[Eric Krewson]

You probably know this but it would be good to mark your sear position on the side of your lock molding and make sure your trigger inlet lets you place the trigger bar so the trigger hits the sear about 5/16" from the pivot on the trigger plate. This should give you around a three pound trigger. Sometimes the precarve inlet requires a move for or aft and a little wood patching to achieve this. Trigger plate depth is something you sneak up on until your trigger bar is just barely touching or slightly below the sear. You don't want any slop in your trigger.

I prefer a simple pinned tigger with the plate separate as it lets you mover the trigger around and not be dependant on the plate for positioning. You install the trigger first and pin it exactly where you want it then inlet the plate to match the trigger position. With your inlet already cut your options are limited.

My setup on my fowler is a simple pinned trigger and a separate plate.

[Parnell]

I didn’t know about that, but had wondered.  Thanks for the “heads up”, Eric.

[Eric Krewson]

Another thing; Sometimes you see a trigger guard set too far back and little room for your finger to get on the trigger. I looked at a lot of pictures of the way the experts placed their trigger guard and noticed they had the trigger a little less than mid point in the trigger guard bow so I put my trigger guard on my fowler in a position to achieve this configuration.

I just looked at your plans on the first page and noticed they have the trigger centered in the bow, this is wrong. The reason for the huge trigger guard bow on a trade gun is to access the trigger with gloves on(ice and snow).

Here are some original Trade Guns and the trigger placement. I would go just a tad further forward then these origins for aesthetics but certainly not centered. Look up Caywood guns and see how he has his trigger guards placed on his trade guns, I think his are perfect for looks and function.

[Eric Krewson]

Here is a caywood NW fowler trigger guard position;

[Parnell]

Hmm, I hadn’t realized that either in my reading!  Good bit of information, that makes sense.  I’ll have a look at that tonight.  Thanks!