Author Topic: takedowns  (Read 10610 times)

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Offline Pappy

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Re: takedowns
« Reply #15 on: April 04, 2008, 08:33:22 am »
I used the large one on mine,it is just about right,even tho I usually like a smaller grip.It
is very confrontable  in my hand and it is pretty small. :)
   Pappy
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perry

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Re: takedowns
« Reply #16 on: April 05, 2008, 01:04:16 am »
Have you considered using a sturdy hinge such as found on marine hatchs , mine are about 6 " long x 1 " wide tapering to the ends and have 3 holes predrilled per side , cost me $14.00 each from a marine shop. Have had zero problems with these with bows up to 54# , never tried heavier . I just epoxy glue the selftapping wood screws in place . Dont use stainless screws - the tensile strength is lousy and a dab of  epoxy glue under the non working part of the hinge also  .

Easier than fitting a sleeve and socket by a long way , just make your bow one piece mark where you are placing the hinge making allowance for the saw cut and its done . Provided the hinge is sturdy I have not found any need for a locator pin . There are commercially available purpose built bow hinges available .

I have made selfbows from billets and fitted these marine hatch hinges but its a pain to squre up the ends from billets with only a mitre saw  .I ended up with a slight gap that I simply shimmed to remove slop  .

regards Perry

CutNShoot

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Re: takedowns
« Reply #17 on: April 09, 2008, 02:20:01 am »
They can be made out of rectangle steel tubing and can even be reflexed by cutting a notch and  re welding it back. A guy named Juri on PP did one I think last year. Go to PP Paleo Planet and do a search for Juri take down. In the primitive bows site.

buck1

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Re: takedowns
« Reply #18 on: April 09, 2008, 02:47:21 am »
Mike yancy at pinehallow also has an oval sleeve just like the two you showed in pic. I have used all 3 and the oval is my favorite! ;)Thanks Buck

Offline El Destructo

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Re: takedowns
« Reply #19 on: April 09, 2008, 03:42:57 am »
They can be made out of rectangle steel tubing and can even be reflexed by cutting a notch and  re welding it back. A guy named Juri on PP did one I think last year. Go to PP Paleo Planet and do a search for Juri take down. In the primitive bows site.

cant find anything on it......
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Offline servicebeary

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Re: takedowns
« Reply #20 on: April 09, 2008, 02:46:34 pm »
Anyone ever seen an elk antler takedown, or just joined antlers?
I take life 1 month in the Montana wilds at a time...

Offline servicebeary

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Re: takedowns
« Reply #21 on: April 09, 2008, 02:49:38 pm »
Oh, and do you think it's possible to get a Gimbok takedown down to 50-60# ?  I really want to build one, but don't have the rotator- cuff for, well, 50# would be best.
I take life 1 month in the Montana wilds at a time...

Offline sailordad

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Re: takedowns
« Reply #22 on: April 09, 2008, 10:45:38 pm »
i know people hate to hear it, however if you do your physical therapy exercises for your shoulder it will improve.
i speak from experience,I've had both shoulders done in the last three years and dont have a problem pulling my bows. not my wheelie bow @65 or my long bow @ 55.
my next self bow is going to be a 55lber,my next laminated bow is going to be 60,so just remember exercises and work your way up to what you want to be able to pull.
you'll get there.

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Offline servicebeary

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Re: takedowns
« Reply #23 on: April 10, 2008, 03:25:01 am »
thanks man, good to know, I've been back in the gym for 3 months, but I didn't know how well cuffs recover.  I should be fine for something like 60ish, but I wonder if you could get a Gimbok that low?  TBB says they pull like 80#.
I take life 1 month in the Montana wilds at a time...