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Author Topic: Red Oak 1x3  (Read 6738 times)

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Offline IrishJay

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Red Oak 1x3
« on: December 13, 2018, 02:43:00 pm »
Stopped at Home Depot today and picked up a 6' length of red oak 1×3. Nice straight grain, no knots. I'm thinking a 68" bow with rigid handle around 40lbs. What limb shape would you guys recommend?
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"The best camouflage pattern is called, 'Sit down and be quiet!' Your grandpa hunted deer in a red plaid coat, think about that for a second." - Fred Bear

Offline bushboy

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Re: Red Oak 1x3
« Reply #1 on: December 13, 2018, 03:27:49 pm »
4" handle,fades at 1-1/2,2"wide for half the length.you may come in a little heavy,but better than light!make sure to radius all the edges,you may want to build up the handle though?
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Offline IrishJay

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Re: Red Oak 1x3
« Reply #2 on: December 13, 2018, 03:31:09 pm »
I have a nice piece of white ash to use for a handle/riser block. I was thinking 2" wide from the fades tapering to 5/8" starting 10" from the tips.
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"The best camouflage pattern is called, 'Sit down and be quiet!' Your grandpa hunted deer in a red plaid coat, think about that for a second." - Fred Bear

Offline Pat B

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Re: Red Oak 1x3
« Reply #3 on: December 13, 2018, 03:36:59 pm »
I have a hickory backed red oak bow that is a 2 1/4" at the fades pyramid. Pyramid would be a good choice. A semi-pyramid, 1 3/4" to 2" wide with parallel limbs out 8" from the handle then tapering to the tips.
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Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline IrishJay

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Re: Red Oak 1x3
« Reply #4 on: December 13, 2018, 03:39:51 pm »
Pat, if I do a 4" handle with 2" fades on either end, would that 8"start from the handle, or from the end of the fades?
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"The best camouflage pattern is called, 'Sit down and be quiet!' Your grandpa hunted deer in a red plaid coat, think about that for a second." - Fred Bear

Offline Pat B

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Re: Red Oak 1x3
« Reply #5 on: December 13, 2018, 03:48:58 pm »
From the fades. You could go 4" or 6" too. For a new bowyer the extra length would be more forgiving. If the limbs seems to be getting too thin as you're tillering you can narrow the width and/or shorten the parallel portion.
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Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline IrishJay

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Re: Red Oak 1x3
« Reply #6 on: December 13, 2018, 03:58:59 pm »
If I do a glued on riser block for extra thickness in the handle can I get away with a cut in shelf? Not looking for center shot, but maybe 1/3 the hand width.
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"The best camouflage pattern is called, 'Sit down and be quiet!' Your grandpa hunted deer in a red plaid coat, think about that for a second." - Fred Bear

Offline Pat B

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Re: Red Oak 1x3
« Reply #7 on: December 13, 2018, 04:27:21 pm »
Yes you can. I prefer to make a bulbous style handle and add a rest at the arrow pass. I think it is a safer application with the same affect. You could probably do it with a more traditional handle.
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Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline bushboy

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Re: Red Oak 1x3
« Reply #8 on: December 13, 2018, 05:08:04 pm »
Red oak can really vary in bend resistance within the species.the shiny waxy stuff I found to be better than the more porus!not sure but a lot of new guys struggle to keep their handles from popping off.pat b did a really good build along a while back,I believe it hickory backed lemon wood(degame),maybe it's still around?good luck,remember the longer the bow in some cases have a lower draw weight because less wood is working.
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Offline timmyd

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Re: Red Oak 1x3
« Reply #9 on: December 14, 2018, 07:13:12 am »
good luck with it. I can honestly say I have never got a board bow to stay together. I know they are popular with some people but I have never been able to make one work. The money I put into boards over the years, I could have got a nice stave lol
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Offline Knoll

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Re: Red Oak 1x3
« Reply #10 on: December 14, 2018, 01:12:32 pm »
For a 1st, 2nd, or even 3rd bow I'd encourage use of pyramid or near-pyramid design.
Ideal tiller for pyramid is "arc of a circle" and, for me, it's much easier to see that tiller than the elliptical tiller you'd want for limbs that were constant width for significant distance.
Also, because arc of circle is what you're after with pyramid, use of Tillering Gizmo is ideal. That simple lil tool virtually guarantees no hinges and maximizes odds of decent tiller. Google "tillering gizmo" if unfamiliar with this tool.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqvwUqn-EFQ

Re the handle/fades riser block . . . I would encourage use of 2" fades, or more, especially for first bows. I would glue on a riser that yields total (limb board + riser block) 1.25 - 1.5" thick/height handle . . . personal preference.
To avoid riser popping off, design fades in such a way that last 1/2" or so of fade is melded into the limb. Don't simply have entire fade sitting on top of your red oak. I'll try to find pic of what am trying to say.
BE SURE you have good mating glue surfaces between your limb board and riser board. Particularly if ya plan to use pva type glue such as Titebond.

Good luck!


« Last Edit: December 14, 2018, 04:20:09 pm by Knoll »
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... alone in distant woods or fields, in unpretending sproutlands or pastures tracked by rabbits, even in a bleak and, to most, cheerless day .... .  I suppose that this value, in my case, is equivalent to what others get by churchgoing & prayer.  Hank Thoreau, 1857

Offline Bayou Ben

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Re: Red Oak 1x3
« Reply #11 on: December 14, 2018, 01:48:10 pm »
Good advice so far. 
I really like Knoll's advice.  I would just say if you intend to do a cut in shelf I would go for a total handle thickness of 1.5". 
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Offline IrishJay

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Re: Red Oak 1x3
« Reply #12 on: December 14, 2018, 02:18:44 pm »
I've got close to 2" with the piece of white ash I glued on, that will probably come down closer to 1.5" as I shape the handle with the old ferrier's rasp.
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"The best camouflage pattern is called, 'Sit down and be quiet!' Your grandpa hunted deer in a red plaid coat, think about that for a second." - Fred Bear

Offline Pat B

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Re: Red Oak 1x3
« Reply #13 on: December 14, 2018, 03:02:03 pm »
Just be sure there is enough "meat" around where the window will be cut out and radius your cuts and round over all edges. Sharp edges and abrupt cut outs are good places for the crack demons to show their trade.
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Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline IrishJay

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Re: Red Oak 1x3
« Reply #14 on: December 14, 2018, 03:39:52 pm »
I rip cut the board down to 2" wide last night and glued and clamped the riser block. I'll probably shape the handle and cut the taper into the limbs either tomorrow evening or Sunday morning. So should I go true pyramid pr semi-pyramid? Keeping in mind that 2" width has already been cut.
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"The best camouflage pattern is called, 'Sit down and be quiet!' Your grandpa hunted deer in a red plaid coat, think about that for a second." - Fred Bear
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