Boo Yew RD

[PatM]

That makes sense since your design is likely identical.

[Selfbowman]

Yes I noticed that. Pat I learning baby steps here .   Arvin

[DC]

What did that caul look like Arvin?

[Selfbowman]

This

[DC]

Kinda looks like a curved caul makes a curved FDC and a straight caul makes a straight FDC.

[Selfbowman]

DC my force draw looks like one half of that caul. The flipped tips at the bottom of the force draw. Never done it full scale but I’m guessing it would be somewhat close.  Arvin

[backtowood B2W]

DC, I really like your hunt for that number...I´m sure you can do it. Glad you ask about so many things. Many interesting topics which I learned a lot from.
Thanks for doing this ....

[simk]

great work again DC - i once had some glueing problems when did a "belly lam over the handle"...glueing onto the "front side" of wood makes weaker glue joint imho. watch out, my last r/d also was 191fps 

[DC]

..glueing onto the "front side" of wood makes weaker glue joint imho. watch out, my last r/d also was 191fps 

I don't understand "front side". Good job on the 191. Are you shooting by hand or did you make a machine. I wonder if anyone is in the 190's without using an RD design. I've managed high 180's with a Molle but the tips were so skinny it gave me the willies to brace it.

[simk]

DC, normally you glue laminates parallel and also parallel to the grain - when you glue the belly lam up the riser block the glue joint runs up, across the grain. this gluejoint is weaker than same with parallel grain. ...and there is a lot of stress there. imho.
R/D design just works fine on wood as a material i think. I do shoot by hand, but only draw 26" as I dont get consistency on 28". The machine in our clubhouse still/again is under construction 
Can't find anymore this fdc but have one from a similar bow (same caul) might also post the bow

[bassman]

DC, you are for sure a very serious bow builder. I hope some day you reach your goal. In the mean time it is fun watching your posts, and the speed you get on your all wood bows are awesome.I am thinking you spend a lot of time in your shop.

[PatM]

A reflexed static will almost certainly shoot faster for at least a  few shots.

[willie]

A reflexed static will almost certainly shoot faster for at least a  few shots.

PatM,  the tips on Dons bows seem to be static.
can you post a pic of a limb you consider "relexed static" please?

[DC]

DC, normally you glue laminates parallel and also parallel to the grain - when you glue the belly lam up the riser block the glue joint runs up, across the grain. this gluejoint is weaker than same with parallel grain. ...and there is a lot of stress there. imho.
R/D design just works fine on wood as a material i think. I do shoot by hand, but only draw 26" as I dont get consistency on 28". The machine in our clubhouse still/again is under construction 
Can't find anymore this fdc but have one from a similar bow (same caul) might also post the bow

You got 191 with a 26" draw?

Oh thanks I understand the end grain thing. What are you going to do. It has to be glued like that. Trust in epoxy

[DC]

DC, you are for sure a very serious bow builder. I hope some day you reach your goal. In the mean time it is fun watching your posts, and the speed you get on your all wood bows are awesome.I am thinking you spend a lot of time in your shop.

Thanks Bassman. I spend most of my time in the shop. I babysit my grandson in the summer so I don't get as much time out there then. I'm pretty much a hermit so social things don't get it the way and I'm blessed with a very tolerant wife. When I pick a hobby I kind of get obsessed and don't do anything else.