Another Knot Question

[Piddler]

Guys and Gals,
I have another question on dealing with knots. A few questions on the knots actually and one regarding rings. More on the rings later. I have a knot that is 6 1/4" from the end of the end of the stave. Stave is 69" long. I have about a 28" draw from front of bow. With the last bow and the handle grooved in a bit I have 27 1/2". So if I cut the stave to 68" that leaves the knot at 5 1/4" from the end and in the working part of the limb. The taper will cover most of the knot. If I cut to 66" that will leave the knot at 3 1/4" from the limb but not in the working part of the limb so much. The taper will hit the edge of the knot. Of course I will leave it wider around the knot. If I cut it to 62 1/2" I can get rid of the knot altogether but I think that will be too short. I had originally planned on trying to put some recurves in the tips,(not drastic) but i believe the knot will be a weak spot.
So my options as I see it are
1 cut to 68" with the knot in the working part of the limb No recurve
2 cut to 66" And get the curve out of the working part No recurve
3 Cut to 62.5 and Try my hand at recurves and sinew backing
Other Question the Stave is wide ringed on one end and tightly ringed on the other. The knot is on the wide ringed side.
What effect will the ring difference have on limb thickness or tillering or anything else.
Other stave info is been trying to stay away from the side that the rings get closer and it is undercut pretty bad on the other side. I can always glue on a bit if the handle gets thin on one side.
This will be bow no 5 for me including one kids bow so have a lot of learning to do. I'll try and attach some photos
Thanks in advance
Piddler

[bownarra]

Any one of the lengths/bows you mentioned would be possible.
The way to deal with the knot is to measure its width and add that width to the width of the limb at that point. Let your line follow the grain around the knot. Think of it like a stone in a stream...the water (grain) flows around the rock (knot)    Nature made it that way with no weakness as the knot is already compensated for as long as you follow the 'swell' of the grain around it and not cut straight lines through it. Add the width equally both sides of the limbs width if the knot is central (best) or if off to one side add extra width that side appriately. Remember to leave everything a little 'oversize' while roughing out and refine the area as tillering progresses.
The difference in ring thickness is no big deal, just check and double check thickness of the limb edges as tillering progresses. It just won't have 'normal' tapering ring patterns on the belly.

[Piddler]

Thanks Bownarra,
I will definitely go around it with the grain and leave it wide there. The lines are marks where I was finding center then kept going to the left because of the undercut on that side. At the end the stave is only about 2 inches wide, the knot about 1/4" haven't really measured it and it still has some wood from the last ring around it. I will put it central of the limb. I think I've been staring at this piece of wood too long.
Piddler

[Pat B]

Can the outline of your bow on the stave be changed so the knot is more centered in the limb. Along an edge makes those knots more susceptible to problems than if they are more centered. Even if you have to adjust the straightness of the bow or that limb with heat you'll have less chance of a problem with them centered in the limb.

[Piddler]

Thanks Pat B,
Yes the lines you see are three different lines for center. The stave is only two inches wide there. It is undercut pretty bad though but doable. The line going down the center of the knot for example would be the center of the limb thus putting the knot in the center of the limb. I'm kind of ruling out the 68" even though it would cover the knot with plenty to spare it would be in the working part of the limb. The 66" is still in thought. OR. Try my luck at a shorty  62" bow for 28" draw with recurves and sinew. If I was confident the 62" is doable I would give it a try. I don't mind a challenge and if it fails then I learned something.  Decisions decisions.
Piddler

[Pat B]

2" is pretty wide for an osage bow of 62", 66" or 68". 1 3/8" to 1 1/2" is plenty however if you decide to make a 62" recurve, with or without sinew backing then 1 3/4" to 2" would be better.